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coyote

Technique or Strength? 5.10-5.12

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Oh, also I'd like to get better at bouldering ....I'm doing v1-2....Just no strength for v3 and above.....or no body tension....

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Oh and DMerch

on another thread you were talking about how in AZ you can drive to the top have a beer instead of the long slog to the top....I moved to San Diego last year and I partially agree....Less work, nice view, It's nice to pull up and be at the summit but I guess I miss the self punishment.......and the war story at the bar in my wet clothes and blisters...look like hell..

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heinouscling...

if you didn't copy all that info from a training book than i'm impressed! All that info was awesome and it translates to all styles of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering...whatever). Every climber should read that and take note. The most important thing you touched on was that you watched other good climbers. If someone wants to get good fast they need to start climbing and hanging out with climbers better than them. IF you just hang out with climbers at your level all the time you may have a great time but they will struggle just like you on routes and your learning curve be slower.

For years, when i first started climbing i climbed with people of my own ability. I might have done this because i didn't want my climbing partners to climb better than me and that allowed me to feel like i was a good climber, whatever. Later i decided to travel for 4 months and met strong climbers along the way. my whole goal was to improve. these climbers gave me insight on how they climb at their level and got me to try harder routes than i thought i could succeed on. the next thing i knew i was climbing a whole number grade harder (i jumped from 12 to solid 13 after about a year). sometimes you need to get a kick in the but and climbers at your level can't do it for you. you need the big guns!

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Actually Karate Crack is the start of one of the best 5.12 routes anywhere. The route is called "Crossfire" and ascends directly above the arch of the crack to the top of the wall. Let's see, solid gear climbing and placements, power endurance, hard crimp sequences, very long runout sections finishing on open slopes that drain the body.

Dr. E you may not see to many "5.12" climbers warming up onthe route much anymore because the climb sits directly in the hot sun, and with the route development at Smith Rock there a number of higher quality warm ups.

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Most of the time when I'm at Smith I sport climb, but I have to say Karate Crack and the Moonshine Dihedral are both really fun warm up climbs.

Someone made the statement that crack climbing and sport climbing are totally different. I think different. On harder thin crack climbs I use many of the same techniques as I do on harder sport climbs. But I would also like to add the disclaimer that lower grade crack climbs are now where near low grade sport climbs.

[ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ]

[ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ]

[ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ]C:\My Documents\Tim Lawrence Resumes\s13\s4.jpg

[ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ]

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Originally posted by TimL:[QB]Most of the time when I'm at Smith I sport climb, but I have to say Karate Crack and the Moonshine Dihedral are both really fun warm up climbs.

Someone made the statement that crack climbing and sport climbing are totally different. I think different. On harder thin crack climbs I use many of the same techniques as I do on harder sport climbs. But I would also like to add the disclaimer that lower grade crack climbs are now where near low grade sport climbs.

[ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ]

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Question: what is the difference between a 5.12 climber and a 5.10 climber

Answer: a real job [laf]

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You're right on good climbs out of the crack. I'm just talking about the bolt pullers err, clippers that can climb hard stuff but don't know how to place gear. I am looking for sunshine in the winter at smith but still don't see many folks climbing in or out of karate for the most part. seems like there is always a line on heinous cling and ring of fire though.

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