Sport Ice Climbing - to bolt or not to bolt!

[rayborbon]

The Messner quotes are amusing but not always fitting the situation....

If bolts are necessary I guess put them in. If not don't. If you are putting up ice routes then I would assume you would be able to make them calls considering the experience necessary to do that(maybe not Jim Yoder though). Pitons may be an alternative since they can be removed.

If it is mixed I would understand bolting even more.

-Ray

[This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-13-2001).]

[dan_e]

I agree with Andy. So far the responses have been well thought out and relative to the topic. It's great to hear all of your opinions. I really do appreciate it.

[Dru]

The important thing is to remember that ice doesn't always form up the same length or thickness. What is one year (maybe when bolted) a blank section with no ice and no gear placement potential, might have ice several feet thick and solidly attached another, fatter year. But I must say that placing bolts in places where the ice is usually solid and protectable (like where you could presumably get a screw in while drilling that bolt) sounds kind of dumb, not to mention expensive for the first ascentionist.

[dan_e]

The lines here are really 'thin' and get crossed easily. I did not mean bolts on mixed routes, although those don't exactly excite me. I meant placing bolts right next to existing ice, which could be climbed and protected if not a bit poorly. I was not refering to climbs that are mixed, where a few bolts are placed on completely ice free sections of unprotectable rock. Just thought I would clarify.