Grand Teton via Upper Exum

[Wall]

This is only my second post on this site as I am no longer living in the PNW. However, I love sharing with all of you the sweet climbs that are in Wyoming. My last post was about DT. On the 9th of July I summited the Grand. The climb was stellar and we did not even have to race an oncoming thunderstorm like you usually have too when climbing in the Tetons.

I worked as a Park Ranger in Yellowstone last year and went back there last week to guide two friends to the summit of the Grand. They are both in their fifties and climbed like pros even though neither of them have much climbing experience.

Shit, they have not even been on rock in over 20 years.

The climb itself is killer. The rock is sound and the views are exhilerating.

The "Friction Pitch" (5.5), which happens to be the crux, is very decieving from below. I was pitching shit on the team above us (friendly shit) about how long they were taking. Then when I took off on lead I thought... oops... I hate karma. The pitch looks like it has supper big holds on it from below but 20 feet above the belayer, with tennies on, with no pro in place, you discover why it is the crux.

It is really not that bad but it did make me think a little.

I climbed the route looking at its potential for a solo climb. I feel the route can be done solo no problem if you are confident on 5.7 to 5.8 trad leads. Most of the route is upper 4th and lower 5th class but there are a few tricky and exposed moves.

If anyone is getting ready to head over to the Tetons and you need any beta on any of the major peaks just let me know.

Happy climbing

[PONCHO&LEFTY]

glad you posted sounds like a cool route. I have had toughts of driving out there this summer and doing it or the normal route, but all my climbing partners are married and tied down. I hate thinderstorms-especially when they make your thingy's humm.

Thunderstorms are bad too!

[willstrickland]

Just a thought...if you're going to hike all the way up there, do the Direct Exum, much better climbing on those lower six pitches than anything on the upper. It's straightforward, nothing harder than 5.7 with a .10 something variation on one pitch if you're so inclined. You can start the Direct by either climbing a pitch of 4th or walking farther right toward the Petzoldt Ridge and then angling back left on a series of grassy ramps. I recommend the ramps (it is a little confusing when to gain the ramps, it's maybe 30-50yards past the 4th class start). The last week of Aug - first week of Sept is usually prime, so get over there. It's a fun climb.

[Rodchester]

The pitch looks like it has supper big holds on it from below but 20 feet above the belayer, with tennies on, with no pro in place, you discover why it is the crux.

 

many say that the Friction Pitch is unprotectable. When my wife and I did the Exum we carried a medium alpine rack and I threw in two fairly small (small, but not tiny) cams. I was able to protect the Friction Pitch as well as other pitches thanks to the small cams.

 

I really enjoyed the route and want to do the North Face Direct or East Ridge in August. I have also thought about the Petzoldt. I have been told that combining the Petzoldt and the Upper Exum is a sweet combo with less crowds than the Full Exum.

 

[mattp]

The Petzold is great, and it leads directly to the Upper Exum. Go for it, Rodchester.

[ryland_moore]

There is also a wonderful 5.6/5.7 corner around to the right if you want to skip the 5.5 Frinction Slab pitch. I liked this pitch better, although the rock was a little loose due to lack of climbing compared to the Upper Exum. It is a full 50m rope length and a 60m would work better for this pitch unless you want to do a hanging belay. Have fun!