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Big Four TR


Juan

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Doug Walker, Craig McKibben, Sam Shabb and I climbed the std. Dry Creek Route on Big Four on Sat. 7/12. The climb went fine once we found the Dry Creek on the way in. On the way out, we followed heavy pink and orange flagging all the way down the Dry Creek bed, through the woods, and to the creek just below the road. We popped out on the road about 50 ft. down hill (toward town) from the small 27 mile marker at the edge of the road. There is a log crossing at the creek at that point, more or less straight down hill from the marker. Once you cross the creek on your way to the mountain, walk up-stream about 75 ft. until you see the flagging "highway." Follow it to the Dry Creek bed and then proceed to the base of the route. From there, it is just as Beckey shows it in the green book. When you get to about 5,500 ft. at the top of the upper snowfield, head to the notch above you via reddish rock (3rd class to maybe 5.0 in places -- we didn't rope up). Once you hit the upper ridge, the summit is the second hump to your left. There is a damp register.

 

The route offers brush, cedar, loose scree, some pretty good rock, and snow. It's worthwhile for anyone who wants to tag Big Four. It's easier and safer than any of the N. Face routes in summer or winter, and no doubt less work than the N.W. Ridge route.

 

It took us 5:10 from the car to the top, and we returned to the car in 10 hrs. total round trip. We took crampons, two 30m ropes, two pickets, one light axe each, and two small racks. Crampons are not strictly required now, but you should at least take aluminum crampons later in the season as the neve will harden. The ropes were tied together for two rappels on the descent. Pickets and rock gear stayed in the pack. Helmets are a must. There is plenty of water along the way.

 

It's a pretty good route, but a bit of a grunt. The well-flagged trail to the base makes life much easier. I suspect Dallas Kloke's group did this in May. Way to go.

 

Cheers,

 

John Sharp

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Matt:

 

I asked Doug to bring a camera but he didn't. So no photos. They'd be pretty boring anyway. It's not a real photogenic route in the summer.

 

Erik:

 

Can you go out Friday??? Call me at (425) 765-7747

 

John

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