chelle Posted July 14, 2003 Share Posted July 14, 2003 Anyone been up there lately? The lower half looked sweet from Skyline Ridge on Saturday (upper part was in cloud). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted July 14, 2003 Share Posted July 14, 2003 I tried to climb the Coleman Headwall on Saturday morning and it was really warm so we bailed. A good freeze is essential for both of these routes to be safe and enjoyable. A few friends climbed the North Ridge earlier in the week and said conditions were good on the route. The approach is beginning to ge a bit more problematic. We approached up the Coleman Deming and started traversing over and down once at the Roman Nose. After bailing on the route we went straight down the Coleman and this was quite a bit harder to navigate than the way we came in. I would recommend the approach we used for the Headwall for both route right now. There is stil plenty of snow on the cut off slope so you dont have to go to the toe of the ridge yet. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted July 14, 2003 Author Share Posted July 14, 2003 Thanks. Approach problematic because of crevasse navigation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 14, 2003 Share Posted July 14, 2003 Onetoole was up there a couple weeks ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 14, 2003 Share Posted July 14, 2003 it looks really good from my office window right now except for the thunderhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wscottf Posted July 14, 2003 Share Posted July 14, 2003 I was up there last weekend. The conditions were fine, but a little warm out. We got to the base of the first 70 degree section around 8:00am. The first pitch was good, as it stayed in the shade, but the second picth was in the sun and was getting soft. I wouldn't have wanted to climb it much later than when we were on it. Aim for getting through the steep stuff around 7:30 or 8:00 and you should be fine. It's pretty easy, I took my wife up it (her first glacier climb, and she'd never swung an ice tool before) and she made quick work of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_m Posted July 15, 2003 Share Posted July 15, 2003 Did it June 28/29. Went straight up the Coleman from the 6000' sites, and the route-finding was pretty complicated in the dark. The traverse under the Roman Nose appeared to be much more straightforward. The righthand start to the ridge was easy and in great shape, just an easy step-over schrund at the bottom followed by a long line of steps. The ice wall was fun. We belayed no pitches, ran out about 3 ropelengths on running belays up and around the left end of the ice wall, traversing left under another barrier and up a steep snow/ice step back onto the ridge. The upper ridge was easy, steep plodding in good snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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