Drury Falls last weekend

[philfort]

My roommate went to climb Drury Falls yesterday with a more experienced partner. They haven't returned yet. They were supposed to be back last night. Their car is still parked on highway 2.

Just wondering if anyone was up there this weekend and knows what the snow conditions were like (avie danger, etc...), or if anyone saw them yesterday. I believe they crossed the river in a rubber raft.

thanks,

Phil

 

[philfort]

update: they were just spotted by a chopper, walking back down. Appears all is ok.

[Rodchester]

Whew...can you keep us informed on them. And ask them to post a trip report. Sounds like an epic.

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Have a nice day.

[num1mc]

For the most part this year has been short on Drury epics and lond on success. Here is a short and incomplete history.

1980 R. "Ten" Gram falls into Drury Falls

1980 John Stoddard, his pack, and his snow

shoes fall thru the ice on Jolanda Lake

1982 Dan M falls thru Drury

1987 Cockroach and Jackson get drunk, canoe

across river, get feet wet, return to

car (no extra socks!), cross river third

time, capsize, sink,etc. Their fourth

trip across the river was by wading in

the dark. A local saw them changing in

the bathroom of Crystals and said "We

have a word for people like you -

Dumbshits!"

1988 Dean and Lee climb Drury in one day,

although it takes Dean three days of

partying to recover

1988 Cockroach and this author climb Drury,

but spend the night on top with no bivy

gear.

1988 Doug Klewin is half way across the ice

bridge when it breaks, sweeping Doug

several hundred feet down stream.

This points out that Doug is lucky, and the Cockroach is one stupid MF'er.

 

[Jeff]

Ok, here's an overview of our Drury Falls "epic." Around 7:30 we nervously placed our small, cheap inflatable raft into the river just upstream from the drainage. Once we were both in and we discovered that it actually floated the crossing was no problem.

The slog up the gully to the base of the first ice pitch only took us about 2 hours thanks to some remaining tracks from previous parties. From here on the climbing was pretty straight forward, but quite pumpy and definitely very intimidating for me on my first multi-pitch ice route. I followed the entire route and at times basically let the rope pull me up but still found it to be very challenging and commiting. To our suprise we also ended up climbing about 800 ft. on ice pitches, something we didn't expect from the guide book we had read.

We finished the last pitch in the dark and once on top were pretty pesimistic about our descent. Without our headlamps (a poor decision by us) we were unable to find any pre-existing rap stations. Thus we decided it was best to wait out the night and begin the decent in the morning rather than getting stuck somewhere mid-face.

We dug a small snowcave and spent the night here occasionally changing positions and doing various aerobic movements to try and stay warm. We both were incredibly cold with no overnight gear so spent the 12 hour night keeping each other awake and constantly asking each other questions to test our minds. Needless to say it was the most miserable night of my life!

Finally the long awaited sunrise came and as soon as the sunbeams began to warm our backs we were up orgainzing our gear. In no time we found the nearby rap station and began a series of 7 straightforward raps. Soon we were back in the approach gully reunited with our packs and the food and water within! Suddenly a chopper flies over. We signal a thumbs up and wave them away. They repeat their flight pattern up and down the gully many more times, worrying us about triggered avalanche danger. Once back at the road we are greated by a group of police officers and the pilot. The pilot mentions that we barely missed a good sized avalanche which stopped about 100ft behind us. Hmmm... coincidence?

In the end all I can say is that it was a very memorable experience and quite the introduction to commiting winter routes.

 

[Guest]

Number 1 MC usually has a phenomenal memory but old age has gotten to him. Jackson and I were well medicated as we caste off in the dark upstream from the preferred crossing. We capsized the canoe and got more than our feet wet. Broken paddles saved us from further use of the sophisticated motor skills needed to paddle back to the highway side. Our reptilian minds took over and we waded back to the truck and hence to the bar.

Good job surviving, Jeff.