Whitehorse route confusion

[slothrop]

I'm sitting here looking between the Beckey and Nelson guides, trying to figure out where the "Whitehorse Glacier" route goes. Beckey's got a line (p130) going up the NE aspect labeled "glacier route", but Nelson's line seems to be a route on the N aspect, right of the "rock hump", up the left side of the broad slope shown at center in Beckey's photo. To top it off, what Beckey labels "snow gulch" is way far west of either of those routes. What's the dilly, yo?

[philfort]

I know Beckey has Snow Gulch mislabeled in the green book (I have the one with the bumpy cover)... he's got it below Sill glacier, which is on the NE (so further east of the whitehorse glacier route, not further west).

 

The Whitehorse glacier/Snowgulch goes up the north/northwest side, right below the big rock wall with towers to the west, that the standard route is on the other side of.

[slothrop]

In the new Beckey, Snow Gulch is two drainages west, directly below Lone Tree Pass. His "glacier route" goes up the Sill Glacier/Basin.

[mattp]

Bummer. I pointed out the earlier error to Jim and he was initially skeptical but after I showed him some photos he correctly labelled it in Select Climbs, and then I pointed it out to Fred and perhaps he has it mislabeled in the new Green guide. I'll have to check it out... meanwhile, blame the confusion on me. I was only trying to help - honest.