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Posted

Has anybody ever linked up the N Ridge of Forbidden with the N Face of Buckner? That seems like it would be rad but the catching point would be descending from the first peak climbed and making it conveniently to the second peak (both routes on N side, both standard descents on S side). If anyone has ever done this and enjoyed the trip, any logistics beta you could provide would be very helpful.

 

I would think the most logical way to do it would be to do Forbidden first and somehow modify the E Ridge descent route to end up on the Boston Glacier. Is that possible/reasonable?

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Posted

Damn that's a good question concerning the circumstances.

 

 

If you had 2 ropes I am sure you could rappell the East Ledges descent to the glacier. I am not sure how steep it would be there though. Since I've never done it I would suggest bringing a picket to belay with after exiting the EL descent.

 

I also rarely use\bring pickets too.

 

Posted

The NE face of Forbidden isn't a bad descent, it's actually pretty easy. It's mostly steep heathered slopes between cliff bands that you can walk down and then two rappels to the glacier. From there, heading over to N Face of Buckner would be pretty easy.

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