Rodchester Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 I am looking for recent beta on snow condition (amount) on Ingals peak, all three summits. I am thinking about doing a traverse of the three summits starting at Ingals Lake and doing the Dike Chimney and East Ridge of the East Peak then the East Ridge of the North Peak and then scramble up the South Peak from the col between the two and down the south side of the South Peak. Any info appreciated. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 I know that Mountaineer Basic Gumbies have been going up there already this year, so it has been climbed this spring (main/North Peak, that is). My friend just led a Mounty climb up there. He didn't go up via the Red Slab Route (can't remember which one he went up) and didn't report to me any snow, which is not to say it wasn't there, just that he didn't find any of it to be an albatross toward their success. I doubt it's snowfree. Ah, the snow cornices just make it that much more invigorating. Both peaks are over 7,600 ft, so snow should be expected--especially in shaded areas and north slopes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 12, 2003 Author Share Posted June 12, 2003 Klenke: Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 I had a good view of Ingals this last weekend from the West Ridge of Stuart: Ingals looks to have very little to no snow on the route. The only snow I would expect your going to encounter is on the approach and there will be plenty. The lake is still frozen, however it looks ready to break up soon (maybe already). From our experience at 9,400' on Stuart having clean snow free rock will not be a problem.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 12, 2003 Author Share Posted June 12, 2003 Thanks Tod... ...I figure the Dike Chimney should have some snow and still be wet..... What did you think of the West Ridge of Stuart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freeman Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Rod, I've never done the Dike Chimney but I've been told its pretty grungy. However last year we did a fun outing of all three peaks by doing the West Ridge of the East Peak, then the East Ridge of the North Peak (both from the notch - when you get to the greasy steep part of the gully approaching the notch go left up a little face), then rapped the normal slab route and walked out over the South peak. Very nice day trip and you avoid the hords on the slab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 12, 2003 Author Share Posted June 12, 2003 Freeman: I thought about doing it that way, but I want to do a full traverse...why? I don't know exactly, just one of those things. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freeman Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 I'd appreciate a first hand report on the Dike Chimney - might want to do that traverse some day too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 12, 2003 Author Share Posted June 12, 2003 If I do it I'll post a TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 West Ridge of Stuart was fun. It's a lot more traversing than I normally like to do but still a blast. If you like blind navigating from ledges to gullies to couliours to ledges (and so on) and are ready to back track if you make a mistake then it's your type of climbing. Thankfully we didn't have to backtrack at all and we were able to do all but the last 30' free solo. The last 30' was something of a series of double crack, stemming and layback that probably was 5.7. Kind of a bummer when you get that far can see the summit right above you and then have to pull out the rope and gear up for only 30'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 16, 2003 Author Share Posted June 16, 2003 A buddy and I went up to do Ingals with the idea that we would traverse all three peaks if the conditions were right. We bivied about half-way from Ingals pass to Ingals lake. Oh man, it got cold on Saturday night, and windy too. Soooo, we were slow to get out our bags and sacks. Lets just say we were prepared for warmer weather. We ended up not getting up until 7:30 a.m. Running later than we had planned, we decided just to do the east ridge of the main peak (North). Good conditions getting up the snow gully and no problems transitioning to rock. There is still a good bit of snow up there, but nothing that will inhibit an ascent. At the notch there was a lot of snow, after you pass through the notch. It was like being in a snow cave...but there is an excellent opening between the snow and the rock face that you can climb up and out of the snow. The rock was actually fairly dry and presented no problems. The rest of the pitches were snow free and dry. Just before the last pitch we had to cross a small snow tongue. I was glad that I had an ice axe, but I don't think it was needed. Also, this snow tongue should retreat in the next few days. We summited and went over to the south face. There was no one on the mountain. We had heard someone on the summit earlier, but they were gone by the time that we got there. As we rapped down there was one party of two siting on the large ledge on the south face. One of the guys was NOT having fun and they were in the process of bailing. With no one in the way, we continued to rap down the south face. We saw one other group of two at the base eating and contimplating the route. We encouraged them to go for it and glissaded down to our gear. On the entire trip we saw only four people, two parties of two. What are the odds of that on a Sunday on Ingals peak? (I know there is a scramble down route, but we rapped because there was no one on it). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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