TR: SF on Prusik Peak

[jrb]

We got an early start Saturday morning so we could hit Starbucks and get jacked up on caffeine for the hike in. The first 5.5 miles in is fairly easy and flew by. I was constantly tripping over rocks, logs and my own feet since I was too busy staring at Snow Creek Wall to really pay attention to where I was going. Arriving at Nada Lake is quite breathtaking. It was my first trip into the Enchantments, and I can not wait to go back. After a nice stroll around the lake the real work begins. I have to say getting to Snow Lake was a little more then I was expecting, but it was not even close to the joy that is getting to Lake Viviane. We ran into snow part way around Snow Lake and soon lost the trail. This did not help are cause at all. Needless to say we went from making good time to crawling along. Even when we finally found the trail the final hump up to Viviane was work. It is a mix between snow and bare trail. The snow was pretty soft and it was easy to punch through with a heavy pack. However I would say it was not that bad. The view from Lake Viviane was equally as breathtaking. Then again I was too busy staring at the South Face to really notice anything else. We pushed up to 7,200 ft and camp on snow. FYI, the hike out was a lot easier since we were able to follow the trail back to Snow Lake.

 

We got up early on Sunday with hope of blast the climb and getting back to Vancouver, WA not too late. Plus it was so warm that the rock was warm even early in the morning. The first pitch has a nice 3.5 Camalot over cammed about 10 feet up. I clipped it for fun and work through a little wide funk before finding some great hands. I ran the pitch as far as I could with the hope of finding the top of two. Which I believe I did. Then again I thought for sure that I was off route at the time. There are so many option it was a little confusing at times. Second pitch was pretty forgettable, not bad but nothing to write about. The third pitch is better then it looks and is where the fun begins. It had some nice hand jams and some fun stemming all at a mellow grade. I ran the pitch all the way to the bolts under the chockstone. For the record the bolts suck! Thankfully there is a textbook #3 Camalot placement (Mr. Long would be proud) to equalize it with. The Forth pitch is the bar fight pitch. You start by forcing yourself through a hole that I thought there is no way I’ll get through and I’m pretty small. Then you move over some loose ground and the fun begins. About 40 feet of flaring Chimney. Can you say “knee/heel”? The pitch is a lot like the flaring chimney pitch on the Lizard at Index (I believe that’s the name of the 4p 5.8 on the lower wall), expect it has a crack that is harder to us, but the friction is better. If you know how to knee/heel it’s a cruise, and will feel like 5.8. The final pitch is AWESOME! It’s pretty in your face for 5.9 and the gear can be a little hard at times but it’s all there. Some great jams, a few stems, a lie-back move or two and even a few wide moves. Plus if you have the composure to look around you will find that you are climbing in a dream. Granite peaks all round, a frozen lake below you, and the sound of runoff crashing down into the basin. Plus the route is on the South Face so you’re in the SUN! The summit is a great reward for the journey, flat and plenty of space to lounge (if you have the time).

 

The descent is fairly straightforward. I believe we made five single rope rappels down the North Face and then traversed to the pass. Then it was time to pack up are gear and get the hell out of the Enchantments. Even though we had, had hopes of getting down early and getting home early it did not happen. Finally rolled into the Couv around 3:00am this morning. Man was work hard today. Thankfully coffee is legal.

 

Great climb that everyone should do. Make sure you brush up on your crack climbing, or you might be eating some humble pie on the last two pitches. For a rack we took a set of nuts (only needed the smaller half), a set of TCUs, doubles of #.75 to #3 in Camalots and one #4 Camalot. A #3.5 would help as would a #4.5, IMHO. Then again it is a LONG approach. We hiked in, in boots but I would go in approach shoes. Yes there is snow but there is not much, and plastic bags work well at keeping feet dry.

 

[erik]

nice work

 

a classic

 

 

[TimL]

Right on jrb. We were the party of 3 that topped out after you guys on the Stanley/Burgner SF route.. What a stellar climb. We brought a set of nuts, singles to 4 and doubles in .75, 1, 2. If you brought a 3.5 and 4.5 you could use it, but IMO it would be extra weight. Our group in no way was running out pitches and we had plenty of pro for each pitch and belay. Just some general things about the route that might be interesting to others. The route is set up to bail from the last pitch. You can pretty much find natural anchors for each pitch. The descent off the back is still snow covered. At the start of the 3rd pitch start up a corner and go right across chicken heads into a shallow gulley/chimney. I can see were people can get off route here.

 

I thought all the pitches were supper good except the last. Nothing was particularly strenuous or hard for the grade, but I would like to add it is fairly serious for a 5.9. I thought the first 130 feet last pitch sucked. Basically, you climb up this corner with an 8-10 inch crack with a bunch of loose blocks wedged in it. And of course, you use the blocks for hand hold, some foot holds and pro so use your imagination. The Last 20 feet had the good climbing. Great steep jamming, good stemming and even a place to milk a good rest before the final moves. Glad I finally did the route with good company. I'll definitely climb it again.

 

 

[mattp]

I agree pretty much with TimL though I think many people will want two pieces in the #3.5 to 4.5 camelot range (a pair of 4's would be just fine). They are not needed, though -- I led both the wide pitches with only one and anybody who has climbed with me will tell you that I am not Mr. Badass when it comes to leading. Also, I didn't think the first 120 feet of that last pitch sucked as bad as Mr. L suggests. Yes, there are some blocks wedged in there, but there is nothing scary about it and it is in a great location. The top-out rocks!

[TimL]

Your so right. the top out is one of the best. ****

[Loudog64]

Being JRB's partner I can confirm his Posting. However I Must add my two cents. If you haven't shedded the winter fat (like me) you might suffer. My fat ass had much trouble on the flaring chimi...and I had more trouble that I'd ever like to admit on the top out. I was the reason why we moved like pregnant little-me's on the route. If your fat and your crack climbing arsenal is limited (again...like me) you might just feel fatter than a drugged Elvis on the shitter.

-- Loudog (aka CCP-cheeto cheese puff)

[Norman_Clyde]

These descriptions of 5.9 cracks on pristine granite are making me salivate. This board needs a salivation gremlin. Any help out there?

[Paul_K]