Dru Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Don Serl and I drove up to Lillooet and climbed this mountain. We approached from Enterprise Creek* by the lines you see on the photo. Blue = Don. Red = Drew. Green=descent. Wanted to climb the obvious gully in the middle but snow was soft. Left car 5 AM. Base of face c. 7 AM. Don headed left up a 45 degree gully (out of pic) and up to NE ridge. I went to base of gully then bailed onto rock on right and up N spur (3rd class loose). We met at top of N spur and did a crux traverse along narrow, corniced upper NE ridge to just below summit where we avoided a steep step by traversing on N face as shown. Great views from up top Descended green line down N face. 500m of 45 degree snow downclimbing. Good for face in kicking steps. Got to hidden lake then down marked snow ramp back to base of face. Back out to car at 5PM and off to Mugs and Jugs for Don sez both these routes are FRA's * You can look on your ice map from Lyle if you have it. Quote
Dru Posted June 6, 2003 Author Posted June 6, 2003 It is hard to get scale in the picture but base of face = 6300' Summit = 9470' Big mountain! Quote
dberdinka Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Nice job!! (just had to add the ubiquitous toasting graemlin) I sat in my cubicle yesterday. Joy!!!!! Quote
jordop Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Wasn't that route climbed by McNeil et al. in the 70s? Or was that on a different aspect? Don't have Fairley in front of me. Quote
jordop Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 Yeah, nevermind. I should always check bivy.com BEFORE cc.com Quote
Dru Posted June 6, 2003 Author Posted June 6, 2003 Peter Jordan and Sara Golling climbed the NE face which is on the other(south) side of the left hand skyline. Their route looks good but you approach via Riley Creek for that. Quote
Dru Posted June 7, 2003 Author Posted June 7, 2003 Base of face is more like 6800 than 6300, sorry. Quote
Dru Posted June 23, 2003 Author Posted June 23, 2003 These turn out not to be FRA's either. Mike Kennedy from Lillooet seems to have climbed a couple lines on this side of the mountain in the 70's. The N face was skiied in the early 90's by Kevin Aiken. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.