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Posted

My partner for the Yosemite trip backed out.

 

So it's either go to the valley and look for a partner or do something else.

 

If I went to city of rocks would it be too hot?

 

My belayer/partner would be a 10 year old kid. Are there 5.6/7's in any number there? Are there harder things that I could climb and then lower off to clean?

 

One of the biggest problems I have at Josh is the tops are all rounded and there's no anchors so almost every climb has to be seconded. But it's asking too much to drag a kid up 5.9 cracks. Just one of those and he'd be done for the whole trip. City of rocks looks very similar.

 

Thanks in advance

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Posted
Sloth_Man said:

 

One of the biggest problems I have at Josh is the tops are all rounded and there's no anchors so almost every climb has to be seconded. But it's asking too much to drag a kid up 5.9 cracks. Just one of those and he'd be done for the whole trip. City of rocks looks very similar.

 

what makes you say that? my experience has been that many routes at the City have very good anchors suitable for easy raps or even, god forbid, top roping.

Posted

The City is more angular than the rounded domes of JTree, and there are a number of great routes in the 5.6/5.7 range. I had a great "climbing with the kid" trip there years ago. End of May shouldn't be too hot, and most of the routes have an East or West orientation, so you can chase sun or shade over the course of a day, whichever condition you need.

Posted

Many of the classic easy routes on Elephant Rock, Parking-Lot rock (and nearby), and the Breadloaves are longer than a half-rope length and need to be seconded. But there is so much there that you can find many exceptions.

Posted

check out the climber written guide CITY OF ROCKS IDAHO by Dave Bingham. There are some great routes such as Delay of Game 5.8, Too much fun 5.8 175 ft. Rain Dance 5.7 170 ft, and of course the fucking shit Cruel Shoes 3 pitch 5.6/5.7. Have a great trip!! thumbs_up.gif

Posted

Thanks for the help guys.

 

I'll take my soloist so I can rap off and second some things myself.

 

Are the easier routes a gumby scene? During the week shouldn't be a problem I would think.

 

Down in Josh you could never get on anything easier than 5.8 on weekends, but weekdays were wide open.

 

Is there camping in the park?

 

I'll go get a guide book tonight.

Posted

Speaking as a gumby, the easy routes are a gumby scene on the weekends, but only on the popular rocks next to the road. Hike into the Inner-City, and you'll see fewer people.

 

If you get a guide book be sure NOT to get the Tony Calderone guide. I'm not sure if it's still in print, but for a few years it was the only one available (around '99 or so). I don't want to go into it, but that guy was a blight on the Salt Lake, City of Rocks climbing scene for years.

Posted

city of rocks, rockband.gif

 

Camping when I went down was easy, just pull in on a weekday, and keep the spot as long as you want (i can't remember the fee's thougth, sorry)

 

The only think to be aware of for the kiddy, is that the granite there is REALLY sharp, and eats finger tips like nothing I'd been on before.

 

There are lots of great bumbly routes, it is still one of the best trips I've ever been a part of... And the scenery (if you like rocks) is so astonishing. Take a camera...

 

Go for it!!!

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