Climbing in Croatia

[rbw1966]

Looks like I will be in Croatia for a bit this summer and am hoping to get in some climbing. The plans so far are not set in stone but at some point I will be in Split. Anyone have any firsthand knowledge of climbing in Croatia or have friends there you can hook me up with?

 

Flying in to Rome to spend some time in Italy before heading to Croatia. Any info on cragging between Rome and Venice would be helpful as well. Also, hotel recommendations for Rome.

[jaee]

My wife's Croatian, from Split. I've been a couple of times. There are routes being put up in town, at the big park called Marjan on the sea, near the end of the point. I'd stop in at the alpine club, Hrvatsko Planinarsko Drustvo (Croatian Mountain Club) in Split. It's on the same street as the McDonalds downtown, towards the sea. There's usually someone there during the day.

 

There's limestone everywhere, which is just starting to get developed. There is supposed to be a guide out soon.

 

Here's some good route info etc. from a climbers web page

 

Here's some info from some guys web page on the climbing:

CLIMBING: Sheer rock face slopes on Mount Velebit and Anic Kuk. Contact the Croatian Tourist Board. For other routes contact the Croatian Mountaineering Society. Phone (09385)-1-42-9927.

 

ICE CLIMBING: Croatia boasts some of the world's best alpinists. Write, preferably in Croat, to Climbing Club Mosor 1925, Marmontova 2, Split.

 

From here

 

More info:

Climbing:

-- http://www.croatia.hr/ - General information - The mountains of the Republic of Croatia - A Description of the Mountains and Hills -

-- http://www.findcroatia.f2s.com/ - Active Vacation - Climbing -

-- Rock Climbing - http://islands.zesoi.fer.hr/~dvukmir/ - Web Site Catagoies = Climbing areas in Croatia - Alpinisam and Sport climbing clubs - Artificail rocks and gyms(CRO only) - Contact Addresses - The World Climbing Archive - Climbing guidebooks for the rest of the world - Under cons: search WWW stie - Visit Web gallery -

-- Croatia Climbing Areas - http://islands.zesoi.fer.hr/~dvukmir/climbing.htm - w/map and each area has its own web page -

-- Losinj Island - http://www.island-losinj.com/sport.htm -

-- Makarska City Mountaineering Society - Tel 616-455 -

from here

 

Biokovo, near Makarska is a short drive south of Split. There are some neat villages and great beaches along the way. There are routes near here, but I don't have any particulars other than a guide was in the works a few years ago.

 

Great climbing area in Croatia is in national park "Paklenica" .Canyon is aprox. 1 mile from the Adriatic coast where is small

city Starigrad with hotel ,pansions , rooms.

First bigger city with aeroport is 25 miles,

Zadar -also at the coast. This is farther from Split, tho.

 

I think this info relates to an area in the north, but you can ride the ferry for pretty cheap: Climbing Festival

 

Here's a good one on Dalmatian Climbing Dalmatia is the region in S. Croatia, famous for its beaches & warm weather. There are many links listed here.

 

If you've got 4 days to burn, I'd also recommend a road/ferry trip out to Slovenia and do Triglav. You can do 2000m of limestone by 4th class (via ferrata) or 5.12 or anywhere in between. One big draw is there are huts around the thing at the bottom, but there's also a nice big hut (sleeps 140, serves booze & food) above 3k m, only an hour from the summit. Tominska Pot (Tom's Way) is a fun walkup with significant exposure. We saw a chamois the last time we were there.

 

In Italy, I've done some stuff around Cortina D'Ampezzo, but I believe that's north of Venice. Cortina is amazing, with huge limestone peaks everywhere, w/ chairlifts to the top.