SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted April 8, 2003 Share Posted April 8, 2003 I climbed the North Buttress Couloir/North Buttress of Colchuck Peak last Thursday and wanted to report on the conditions. Eightmile Road is gated and with good reason too because after the first mile or snow, there is a solid snopack all the way to the Stuart Lk Trailhead. Good news is that it was really cold up there last week. The snow on the road was hard and frozen as was the snow on the trail. I put my crampons on 100yds up the trail and didn't take them off all day long! Colchuck Lake is well frozen and I walked across that for a speedy approach to the base of the climb. Triple Couloirs looks pretty sweet right now and I bet these conditions will remain for awhile if it stays cold up there. Also looked liked some interesting possibilities up the North/Northwest Face for those so inclined... The North Buttress route was pretty cool as well--straightforward couloir climb for most of the vertical gain then some interesting ridge climbing. I'm sure there are many ways to go. One could easily go right onto the NW Face and stay in snow the whole way I suspect. Or do some cool climbing up the ridge...I bet this climb is easier and more fun now than in summer--the Beckey guide says as much. The views last Thursday were pretty amazing. Stuart was still free of clouds by the time I got on top and that always looks rad with so much snow on it. Had the whole place to myself! Or so I thought. Did meet F. as I crossed back over the lake. He was contemplating the Triple Couloir route from the lakeshore and was very good company on the way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 Thanks for the TR. It appears from your report, you were able to do the approach & climb in a day. How long did it take you to do the approach (to the base of the couloir) in those fine, crunchy conditions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted April 16, 2003 Author Share Posted April 16, 2003 Not too long. Left the car (Bridge Creek Campground) at 5:30am and made it to the base of the couloir at 11am. Took several breaks on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted April 16, 2003 Share Posted April 16, 2003 At about what time did you reach the summit of Colchuck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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