Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

      Help keep cascadeclimbers.com going!  Please consider donating so we can keep this site going.   We have set expenses right now but no revenue.  We do hope to getting a sponsor to help out, but for now we just need funds to upgrade the site and pay for hosting and licensing. See the "DONATE" tab in the top menu.
Sign in to follow this  
adventure43

[TR] Mt Hood - Reid Headwall Right Variation 05/24/2022

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt Hood - Reid Headwall Right Variation

Trip Date: 05/24/2022

Trip Report:

Coming down onto the Reid from Illumination Saddle wasn't horrible but the ice crust at the top wasn't great.20220524_053915.jpg.b64bf0ab31bc81dc0249086862e385ec.jpg

Pretty easy to get over the bergschrund.628e2dad2529a_20220524_054058-Copy.jpg.73bf62e851015d0ade36b2ddfff31fd4.jpg

About to head through the gap. Stayed to the right to avoid the ice fall.20220524_061343.jpg.0b7c21aa118e205a220a3628fa36616d.jpg

Getting some elevation, starting to punch through the ice crust - some hollow sounds.20220524_061412.jpg.36021946dddd83bc414fdaaff6f9e5bf.jpg

I should have gone up the green line initially instead of trying to go right from the location the picture was shot. Going right here takes one to a flat-ish spot on top of Castle Crags. I did eventually go up the green line but the standard route is one gully left from it.628e2f8c6b1f3_20220524_063855-Copy.jpg.b52d92a51bb94ce10ac520862433bab6.jpg

Route was consistently steep. The slightly less steep parts had more ice fall too.20220524_064002.jpg.1d32deddd1b1ac5b41e1a555775f069e.jpg

After descending and traversing climber's left to the gully with the green line shown before. Whew, I'm going to make it out of here, I think. The ice crust wasn't great on much of the climb and a couple of times I could feel vibrations in my left foot through the crust when kicking in with my right foot.20220524_072314.jpg.d6fe8f8c01d7ac73de3df3a3fa23a674.jpg

Shot of Castle Crags before heading up any further. Previously I was climbing toward the sunlit middle part of the ridge.20220524_074548.jpg.69836047138559deae8e6e2d850fee7d.jpg

Fun climbing.20220524_074614(0).jpg.693ac2f7c07ddc7b0fd1270c08bcbcb7.jpg

Upper part of Castle Crags.20220524_074653_stitch.jpg.5b51db30e95a534cf59a14bb556d71c6.jpg

Made it to the West Crater Rim, nice. 20220524_080729(0).jpg.eba9d9d768969ab3a9235e709b789d74.jpg

Looking East.20220524_080538.jpg.454d6d0b2263acb6452cb87998940f14.jpg

Looking down route.20220524_080650.jpg.61c51aceebddacdd2845f3f31ef28870.jpg

Very cool.20220524_082105.jpg.aeda9e208e0b859b11800732cff7d760.jpg

Wow.20220524_082709.jpg.870f06bde20df74dae2262ecaa2b4708.jpg

1 O'clock couloir needed some love. Used teeth to keep umbilicals from getting caught on rime feather on the center fin.20220524_091915.jpg.4c52ac0f3c55202d285469a001a27bbe.jpg

Barely fit through with the pack on.20220524_092714.jpg.32832f6dd80483eac96579d34dc104a9.jpg

Had the summit to myself.20220524_093447.jpg.6ca580ba91478a871939ce2315fa7345.jpg

Headed down the right Pearly Gate.20220524_094359.jpg.959992fe0b8c423704e8f32fe0e92104.jpg

Gear Notes:
2 tools, crampons, helmet, feet - no skis.

Approach Notes:
Followed cat tracks.
  • Like 1
  • Snaffled 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great photos!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×