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[TR] Mt Hood - Reid Headwall Right Variation 05/24/2022


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Trip: Mt Hood - Reid Headwall Right Variation

Trip Date: 05/24/2022

Trip Report:

Coming down onto the Reid from Illumination Saddle wasn't horrible but the ice crust at the top wasn't great.20220524_053915.jpg.b64bf0ab31bc81dc0249086862e385ec.jpg

Pretty easy to get over the bergschrund.628e2dad2529a_20220524_054058-Copy.jpg.73bf62e851015d0ade36b2ddfff31fd4.jpg

About to head through the gap. Stayed to the right to avoid the ice fall.20220524_061343.jpg.0b7c21aa118e205a220a3628fa36616d.jpg

Getting some elevation, starting to punch through the ice crust - some hollow sounds.20220524_061412.jpg.36021946dddd83bc414fdaaff6f9e5bf.jpg

I should have gone up the green line initially instead of trying to go right from the location the picture was shot. Going right here takes one to a flat-ish spot on top of Castle Crags. I did eventually go up the green line but the standard route is one gully left from it.628e2f8c6b1f3_20220524_063855-Copy.jpg.b52d92a51bb94ce10ac520862433bab6.jpg

Route was consistently steep. The slightly less steep parts had more ice fall too.20220524_064002.jpg.1d32deddd1b1ac5b41e1a555775f069e.jpg

After descending and traversing climber's left to the gully with the green line shown before. Whew, I'm going to make it out of here, I think. The ice crust wasn't great on much of the climb and a couple of times I could feel vibrations in my left foot through the crust when kicking in with my right foot.20220524_072314.jpg.d6fe8f8c01d7ac73de3df3a3fa23a674.jpg

Shot of Castle Crags before heading up any further. Previously I was climbing toward the sunlit middle part of the ridge.20220524_074548.jpg.69836047138559deae8e6e2d850fee7d.jpg

Fun climbing.20220524_074614(0).jpg.693ac2f7c07ddc7b0fd1270c08bcbcb7.jpg

Upper part of Castle Crags.20220524_074653_stitch.jpg.5b51db30e95a534cf59a14bb556d71c6.jpg

Made it to the West Crater Rim, nice. 20220524_080729(0).jpg.eba9d9d768969ab3a9235e709b789d74.jpg

Looking East.20220524_080538.jpg.454d6d0b2263acb6452cb87998940f14.jpg

Looking down route.20220524_080650.jpg.61c51aceebddacdd2845f3f31ef28870.jpg

Very cool.20220524_082105.jpg.aeda9e208e0b859b11800732cff7d760.jpg


1 O'clock couloir needed some love. Used teeth to keep umbilicals from getting caught on rime feather on the center fin.20220524_091915.jpg.4c52ac0f3c55202d285469a001a27bbe.jpg

Barely fit through with the pack on.20220524_092714.jpg.32832f6dd80483eac96579d34dc104a9.jpg

Had the summit to myself.20220524_093447.jpg.6ca580ba91478a871939ce2315fa7345.jpg

Headed down the right Pearly Gate.20220524_094359.jpg.959992fe0b8c423704e8f32fe0e92104.jpg

Gear Notes:
2 tools, crampons, helmet, feet - no skis.

Approach Notes:
Followed cat tracks.
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