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[TR] Forbidden Peak - West Ridge 08/04/2018

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Trip: Forbidden Peak - West Ridge

Trip Date: 08/04/2018

Trip Report:

I had a great climb of Forbidden Peak before being involved in an attempted rescue.  The climber fell on the slabs below Forbidden while descending.  It was a tough day, and I understand that there had been two accidents in the two days prior to this one.  Be safe out there, and make sure that you have some form of communications available.  Here's a link to my TR: Spokalpine

Gear Notes:
60m rope (we used a 60m twin folded in half – perfect system for this route!), single rack .3-2, nuts, 6 alpine draws and four double length slings. Neither of us brought boots or climbing shoes, opting to do everything in approach shoes. Aluminum crampons worked well for the short snow section and my superlight CAMP Corsa Nanotch axe was great, as always. I was really happy with our gear choices. You never really need to carry more than a liter of water in Boston Basin because water is so easily available from the multitude of streams and snowfields. Make sure that you have some form of communications device in case of emergency – I believe that an Inreach is the best option given its capabilities.

Approach Notes:
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You guys didnt come across a pair of Mountain hardware goretex pants near the bottom of the climbers trail did you?  I dropped a pair the day before you guys climbed.  Looks like your timing was perfect.  We we saw was clouds, rain, and clouds...

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14 hours ago, JasonG said:

So..... what's the story on the guy's fall?  Just a misstep?  Falling rock or ice swept him?  How far did he fall, etc....

Not good, sorry to hear about your involvement....and nice work on getting up and down the climb safely.

He simply slipped off of the slabs while he was walking near the cliff edge, where all the waterfalls are at. 90 foot fall. It was bad.

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