Drederek Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 He did retest and knot slipped at 670 pounds on an aluminium biner. Don't I recall someone on this site testing stuff to failure last winter? I've met a few engineers out climbing. I can't believe some of them don't have access to testing equipment. I am curious how big a fall it would take to blow out a belay device compared to the strength of a bolt or gear belay. It seems to me the powerpoint of a cordelette system is almost completely static. I also like to have a little room to maneuver in case of rockfall. Sorry if I am straying off the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGONES Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 Well, I can do you guys one better. (Better safe than sorry, that's what my mom always said!) After clipping BOTH my daisy chains to the anchors, AND tying in with the rope using an atomic figure eight, I then fix a prussik or klemheist knot to the rope below the tie-in point, attaching it with double locking carabiners to the center of my undergarment. (Tip: You need the super-heavy-duty Vic's Sec. full-figure model for this to work properly). This way, if the rope gets chopped, you are immediately strangulated and do not have to endure any free falls, broken bones, hours of agony hanging by a thread, etc. etc. I bet this gets into the next edition of Extreme Alpinism, for sure! PS Anybody who jumps to the conclusion that the author of this is a girl is just deluded by stereotypes and seriously politically incorrect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 I use a daisy chain and prescribe to Will's basic premises. When I arrive at a belay It's the first thing I clip so I can yell off belay. Then I make the anchor equalized and then clip in with clove or 8 depending on situ. If multi pitch swing lead and partner leads through, arrives at next belay and yells off belay, I can clean everything but the daisy while he is setting up belay above and pulling slack rope if any. Then when he says on belay/climb, I'm ready to go immediately which means faster climbing. ALSO, not mentioned so far is its usefulness when Rapping. I like to be tied into something else than the rope when doing all that rope management and while putting the rope into my ATC for rapping. After checking everything, the daisy is the last thing I unclip before heading down. Belay stations can become major cluster fucks and having the daisy lets me reorganize ropes with piece of mind. Ever watch someone start unclipping shit and not realize they just unclipped you? My daisy chain is MY personal, non confusing link for me to keep track of and NOBODY touches it! And one more....ever get to a belay after a full pitch and there just isn't enough rope left to tie off with until your second comes up a little? Nice to have that daisy! This isn't about right or wrong, just what works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.