Matterhorn questions

[ken4ord]

Hi all, looking for some info on the Nez de Zmutt route. Unfortunately my French sucks and most of the write ups are in French. Anyone got any information in English you are willing to share? Current route descriptions, current route conditions or tr's all would be helpful thanks. 

Note: Interested in Zmutt not any of the other ridges. 

[Buckaroo]

My question would be what is the direction of the rock strata. I know the Hornli is facing up so  you get jugs to climb and the Liongrat is facing down so it's more difficult. Not sure about the Zmutt.

[Rad]

On 8/1/2018 at 7:12 AM, ken4ord said:

Hi all, looking for some info on the Nez de Zmutt route. Unfortunately my French sucks and most of the write ups are in French. Anyone got any information in English you are willing to share? Current route descriptions, current route conditions or tr's all would be helpful thanks. 

Note: Interested in Zmutt not any of the other ridges. 

Google translate. If you use Chrome it will recognize other languages and ask if you want the page translated. Not perfect, and will probably botch climbing terms, but these things are getting pretty good.

[ken4ord]

We’ll just got back a few days ago and realize the Nez de Zmutt and Zmutt are two different routes. Either way it didn’t matter since after month of beautiful stable weather when arrived at the base clouds had moved in and snow and rain was forecasted for our climbing day, so Hörnli was the route du jour. I’ll put up a TR later. 

Oh well what I found out was Zmutt was rated anywhere between 5.7-5.9, I guess it depends on the time of year and what line you take. The Nez was rated 5.11. 

Edited August 25, 2018 by ken4ord
Additional info