Gun Show?

[jared_j]

What is the scoop?  I haven’t hiked in to see the aftermath of the rockfall incident from awhile back.  Are people climbing there again?  Categorically avoiding the area?  Which route(s) were affected?  I don’t know how to think about the risks beyond the generic quip about geologic time including now.  

Edited April 12, 2018 by jared_j

[Rad]

19 minutes ago, jared_j said:

What is the scoop?  I haven’t hiked in to see the aftermath of the rockfall incident from awhile back.  Are people climbing there again?  Categorically avoiding the area?  Which route(s) were affected?  I don’t know how to think about the risks beyond the generic quip about geologic time including now.  

Good questions. Here are the facts: The rock fall was August, 2016. The route that got hit the hardest was Elation at the End of Eternity, the 2 pitch 5.9. Leland went back soon thereafter and replaced hardware on that route. Lines to the left may have been damaged or changed, but I don't know details. To the right, GS-7 and Endless Bliss seem to be intact. Everything right of Endless Bliss was unaffected. If you look up at the scar where the debris originated, you can see layers of rock, dirt, roots, and moss that are often wet.

And now into the realm of speculation and personal opinion: The area immediately left of the scar above Gun Show looks like it has all of the same features as the section that fell, so I wouldn't be surprised if it fell off too, killing anyone in its path.  I'm not a geologist, but I imagine it could come off this week, next year, or 50 years from now. I initially thought there was imminent danger from it and posted the signs you may have seen out there. But as far as we can tell nothing has fallen off there since 2016. Personally, I sometimes climb at the Gun Show but I stick to the right side of the wall and don't linger in the debris area as this is likely to be ground zero if there is another rockfall event. Part of this is because I feel the right side routes are better than the left side ones anyway. As I climbed Elation years ago, I may never go back to climb it again. I'm sure people have climbed it. I just feel that there are other things I'd rather climb and I don't see any reason to accept the unknown risks of that spot. If I were climbing Endless, I'd have my belayer alert to sounds of rock fall and ready to run for cover.

There are plenty of other areas with active rockfall that could kill you. Index comes to mind. Several spots in Yosemite. Erosion happens.

Climb on! Oh, and the new guide book is coming out very soon.

[jared_j]

Thanks for the thoughtful and thorough reply.