Right Couloir, Peak 11300

[keenwesh]

Just going to throw this up there. Last spring I climbed this line on 11300, Some friends had done it to within a short distance of the summit the year before. Apparently this line was first climbed in 1983 by Kimbrell and Gaskin. They called it the Right Couloir (there's a prominent couloir that it takes a right out of). This line is fantastic, Higher quality than Ham and Eggs, and includes a full value Alaskan ridge traverse to the summit that is excellent in its own shitty way. The climb is not close to over once you top out the couloir.

 

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213399/Peak-11300-West-Face-Right-Couloir-Reality-Peak-West-Face-Devils-Advocate

 

We skipped the 3 mixed pitches at the start, soloing around the left in the name of speed.

 

The couloir itself is great ice to 90 degrees, followed by some weaving around seracs on a ridge to reach the summit. Highly recommend this route, it should be done more. A half hour to 45 minute skin from the standard west fork camp.

 

Initial ice pitches:

 

Upper Couloir

 

I debated posting this a little bit, as I think that one of the best parts of climbing in this range is digging up old reports and taking the time to learn the background. However, this isn't in an obscure spot of the range and is a great objective. Go and do it.

[keenwesh]

http://aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/aaj-13201213399-1453218716.JPG http://aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/aaj-13201213399-1453218716.JPG

 

Route line from Willis Brown.

We soloed the obvious ice entrance to the couloir to the left of the lower rock buttress, all neve except for maybe 40 meters of 60 degree ice.

Edited December 16, 2016 by keenwesh

[genepires]

nice one.