max
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Posts posted by max
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I think routes are generally rated based on how they are.
Seriously though, the difficulty of the moves doesn't change for onsight/redpoint/toprope/ blah blah blah. That stuff is mental.
In my opinion, the pro situation is independent of the climbing. Yeah, you may work harder fiddling with a odd nut placement, but that's not the climbing.
My thoughts.
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Suck: check.
1. Cool pictures and video from drones are like crack for the mind: no effort, no work on the users part, just pure reward. Talk about lazy!
2. They're annoying, and there's no denying it. In general, I think the environemtn around us should be disturbed as little as possible.
3. Legal? Probably in many places, but hopefully not for long.
4. Biggest one for me is they seem like a huge amount of money diverted from something more worthwhile. Do we really want to spend $500 to see a video of some guy ski? I guess if it's of yourself skiing, its ok.
5. Sniper style with a bb gun.
Flame on, bitches. My bet is most people either are pro or don't have the nuts to stand up and say that even though they are "legal" at this point, they should go away.
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Disclaimer: I'm not a doctor, I haven't seen you hand, and I only read you post once. But I will respond.
I went to a doctor with a similar complaint and he told me about this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dupuytren%27s_contracture
Dave
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try yoga. Give it a month. It involves great strength, flexibility, and mind exercises. And with a DVD, you can do it at home for free. But I suggest expert coaching, too.
Good luck!
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For me, a good partnership is far more valuable than a few dollars for some lost/stuck gear.
Amen.
I forgot to pack my wife's sleeping bag once.... I slept without (a bag or my wife).
"Happy wife is a happy life"
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Partners are partners. Split the cost regardless of "who's at fault"
If someone continues to demonstrate dipshit-osity, ditch them and climb sick shit solo.
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You should check out this page: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/tripreports/
It's pretty good. Good luck!
Dave
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Awesome trip, awesome TR. Looks like a close group.
Dave
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I vote Tucson!
Great city scene, pleasant/cool winter temps, sun, no climber scene, great hostile (check out road runner hostel) and cheap flights into Pheonix. January might be a little cold.
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Trip: Mt. Prophet - SE Shoulder
Date: 8/6/2014
Trip Report:
Wednesday and Thursday I enjoyed climbing a relative nobody of the Cascade peaks, Mt. Prophet. The route I used is a hiking route approaching via the Ross Lake West Bank and Big Beaver trails and continuing by climbing the SSE shoulder of the mountain.
GE screen capture looking up Big Beaver:
The peak has a lot going for it: it's right next to the Pickets, amazing prominence and peak gazing opportunities, it's an "easy" objective, and from what I discovered, nobody goes there!
Day 1: Approached from the Ross Lake trail head, left Big Beaver trail just past 39 Mile Cr. at ~1800'; climbed the steep shoulder to ~5000'; continued northwest to a great bivy site at approx ~6700'. I found a small trickle of water in the afternoon, but there was also snow a-plenty for melting.
Bivy site with summit:
Day 2: climbed the last 1000 feet over several small humps, snapped some photos from the summit, and backtracked to the car.
Looking out towards Hozameen et al:
Sunrise summit shadow and the Pickets from the East:
Amazingly, I saw no one the entire trip. The views and position were great. The mileage and vertical may put some off initially, but they're flat miles and the vertical can be hammered out in 4-5 hours. Overall the route presents few technical or navigational issues.
As a matter of reference, you can check out these guys who used an interesting ridge traverse from the east, or these guys who climbed the nice looking west ridge.
Gear Notes:
Brought ax and crampons. Used neither.
Approach Notes:
Skip the boat. Ross Lake trail only added 2-3 hours and saved me having to deal with anyone.
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I heard a blurb on the radio this morning that said there was a climbing accident in the gorge. Something about a 60ft fall near the Dalles. Anyone know anything?
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Wondering what everyone was thinking about this,...
My thinking about this: you should have got a free permit from the get-go, and (at least as far as I can decipher from your story) it was nice that the ranger gave you the option of getting one without fining/punishing you.
Regarding the "currently free" part... it seems to me to be a rhetorical device that was somewhat ingenuous, but (by your description) wasn't an emphasis point. Seems like a probable "slip". In the grand scheme of things, it's inconsequential compared to your mistake.
Just my thoughts, as you asked.
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Well done, Leavenworth Mountain Association.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1112791/1
Care to give us a summary of why LMA is responsible for this? In all honesty, I'm not interested in reading 7 pages to find out myself.
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Dang. Sorry to hear about this...
http://www.seattlepi.com/news/us/article/Washington-climber-dies-on-Mount-McKinley-5466306.php
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It's OK to pay people less than you normally would but only if they're from a poor country, or female. Duh! THEY SHOULD BE GRATEFUL FOR THEIR PITTANCE!
so snarky-ness aside, you are saying that Sherpa support should be paid the same US dollars as the western guides?
Does that same belief apply to workers who make everything else that is outsourced?
and to piggy back off that, does that mean I should pay $.03 for a cup of tea at starbucks?
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oh yeah...duh!
http://www.wenatcheeworld.com/news/2014/may/04/lynnwood-man-stable-after-fall-while-rock-climbing/
Dang. Foot injuries suck! Hope he recovers quickly and thoroughly.
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Heard on the radio someone fell and was rescued in the Icicle. Sounded like it happened Sunday. Anyone know anything?
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Do a TR search with "triple" in the route name... I got 4-5 on the first page that were from may. As the previous guy said, conditions change quickly around here, but that will give you some idea of what to expect.
I don't know if anyone has mentioned it or if you're already aware of it, but we're (NW'ers) are in the middle of a whacky avalanche setup... check it and know it. Probably will be mellowed out in 2 weeks, but might be worth some local insights the day or so before you head out.
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This is just my opinion....
I don't have advice as to what specific product you should buy, but I can tell you the market depreciation on this stuff is HUGE! Stuff gets marked way down after a year or so on the shelf, and people sell used stuff a pretty hefty discounts from retail.
What does this mean for you? If you're willing to get a first-time setup that's not your dream package, and you're willing to wait (ski season is wrapping up and there's lots of time to watch the boards), you can save yourself at least 50% off a new retail package.
Re-reading you post, I see you don't want to futz around a whole lot, so maybe my advice is not targeted for you....
good luck!
Dave
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Haven't been there but I think a friend of mine told me the road was out.
Check http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/home/?cid=stelprdb5150593 for local road conditions.
From the WTA site http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/three-fingers:Drive the Mtn Loop Hwy (92) to milepost 7 at the top of the hill and look for two large telephone poles set close together on the left. These mark the turn onto FS Road 41. Turn onto it, and stay on the main road uphill. Three roads leave 92 at this point, but two are private. FS 41 is the eastmost of the three. The sign for FS 41 is about 100 feet down the road. Stay left as you pass several roads. Turn right onto FS 4160. At about 17.5 miles there will be a trailhead signed for Goat Flats.
From the FS site: "Tupso Pass 41 CLOSED (Snow) - Closed to all motorized traffic at mile 8.1 (0.1 miles past the Canyon Creek Bridge) due to road damage. OK to hike or bike to trailhead. There is currently no timeline for repairs to the road damage beyond mile 8. Trailhead is at mile 18."
Personally, sounds like a great place to go if you have a mountain bike and some extra time. No visitors. SWEET!
Good luck!
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How about the Naches slide? Seems pretty analogous, at least with respect to the quarry and river at the bottom.
Or the Hwy 97A slide...?
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get lightweight compression sacks for your puffy items (bags and coats). Bring your gear to the store to make sure the sacks you get are SMALL.
use thick rubber bands (like the ones you get with broccoli) to hold goretex jackets and pants rolled tight
roll (or fold), don't wad
put the big heavy items in first, pack the light fluffy stuff in the crevices around the big items
most of all, don't bring it.
skip the bottle, get a water bag.
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Maybe....
Alpine System:
The overall seriousness of the complete route based on all factors of the final approach, ascent and descent including length, altitude, danger, commitment, and technical difficulty. This system originated with UIAA Roman numerals; it is now generally seen with French letters and is increasingly being used worldwide.
F: Facile/easy. Rock scrambling or easy snow slopes; some glacier travel; often climbed ropeless except on glaciers.
PD: Peu Difficile/a little difficult. Some technical climbing and complicated glaciers.
AD: Assez Difficile/fairly hard. Steep climbing or long snow/ice slopes above 50 degrees; for experienced alpine climbers only.
D: Difficile/difficult. Sustained hard rock and/or ice or snow; fairly serious stuff.
TD: Tres Difficile/very difficult. Long, serious, remote, and highly technical.
ED: Extremement Difficile/extremely difficult. The most serious climbs with the most continuous difficulties. Increasing levels of difficuly indicated by ED1, ED2, etc.
Teachers Strike
in Spray
Posted
I'm a teacher.
Right now I'm working 5x12's (6am to 6pm) with an additional 2-4 on Sundays. I don't have classes to teach over summer but I also have a giant JJA (June/July/August) list to complete. The actual time we get off in summer is less than you might think and we pay for it during the year.
(Full disclosure: I'm an idiot for doing, but I also have to to do a good job. I suppose the "if you don't like it, quit" folks would support me putting in my clock-time and come and do a mediocre job.)