erik
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Posts posted by erik
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mike,
you better find yourself a new belayer. little bastard.
tim since i was spraying blindly, i can refund your purchase price of one can of beer.
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pete,
the weather in zion is volitale in spring. many thrunderstroms and flash floods...this also happens in late summer. if it rains in zion, you are done climbing. where is the fun in that? zion is beuatiful and less crowded, but to learn the game of big walling, the valley has no peer. plus a beginner usually gets brain fucked on the jungles pitches.
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a.y.c.e.,
sorry to hear that you are going to fall to the darkside. if there is one recomendation i can make is stay away from the real world. it is a dark scary place where things might seem allright, but deep down there is something amiss. i'm not sure what it is but i can say that anything to do with the profit of ohers through you is poisen for the soul. i have been to the real world and it is baddd!!!!!!!! i once was an insurance adjuster at the ripe age of 20 and fought with people over things that just don't matter. mostly money. i finally sat down after a heated argument with a person i had never met, will never meet and don't ever want to meet and came to the conclusion. i need to go to the valley. that was last july. since then i have never been heathier, climbed as hard or even stressed out about things that once did. i.e. traffic. i now have no money and love every minute of it. i piece together little jobs here and there and climb...climb...climb. fortunatly i have free rent and friends with lots of food...thanks wallstein! i have to admit that the dream has to end as i enter another four yrs of college in cali...close to the valley all can stay at my house. but you are right college is the land of honey. ican't wait to tget some.
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tim
i think the buttress you are talking about s condor buttess. leland wyndham put a .10a mutli pitch sporrt route there and ther is another exisiting line to the left of it. if i can find the topo i'll scan it and mail it to you.
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this topic is back again.
so is this weekend to short notice for all those who are interested? if not, then when?
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yes even i have to work on some nice days! though i do have to admit that the day off allows my "smith" crack hands to heal, and i already have logged in for getttin' sick time tommorow to spend time at the "death crag".
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me tired...go climbing now. bye
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 03-01-2001).]
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me tired....go climbing now! bye
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 03-01-2001).]
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is there any update on mr. devany. has his condition improved? does anybody no how to start a fund for him? i know that medical bills are not cheap and there are limits. i don't have much money, but can always spare some extra.
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you notice how excited all the canadians got after the eartquake. their just jelous that they didn't have their own. once again the domination by america shines through!
you know dru if you all had hand guns you would want to rape & pillage too.
i just keep wondering why everyone always claim seattle is better then tacoma. no riots in tacoma, no buildings fell down, no weak mayor and police chiefs in tacoma, everything is cheaper in tacoma, the only thing seattle has over tacoma is you are twenty minutes closer to index.
i think i just typed several ramdon unrelated topics all in one. wicked....dude!
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yeah colin that was mike. he just told that there were some idiots from seattle that started climbing after the rock fall. if you know these people please kick them in the head. as they obviously want it.
and the block fell off in the quarry.
timl sorry but no tcu
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 02-28-2001).]
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sorry tim, we didn't see it sunday evening or monday. mike is up there right now(bastard) i'll give him a call to see if he can look for it.
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i think this one fits better under my dreaming of summer remark.........
i love the el cap shot.
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hey, i thought bandalop epoxyed that thing to the wall, last summer.
just think of the new bouldering- sick!
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WE'RE ALL GOING TO DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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hey man with a chick like that i can be weak, cause she will kick your arse! by the way does anybody have a little sister that fits the description? i am willing to pay up to four pence and 3 legged pig called george w. the III bush as a dowry to the girls father.
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i heard that all those photos are backwards using mirrors. and he didn't even climb the central coulior of the nw rib on the south buttress of the north peak's nw east facing ridge. and that at the time the said incidnet happend he was currently helping shear baby goats for a outward bound reunion feast in the sw corner of the northern panhandle of florida. or was it he was helping lay brick for a americorp in the upper central midwest ohioian mtns? not sure, i check the back issue of x-treme scrambler mag. mike do you still have that copy handy?
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whatever...............................
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 02-27-2001).]
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i could start to type some huge tick list for the summer, as all i have to do this summer is complete it. as i live my climbing dreams now.
really the only thing that i dream about summer is beautiful women in their flowery summer dresses and patagonia sports bras. ahhhh!!!!!!!!!
these are the elusive projects. the women who can boat class 5, rope gun .12 trad, lead wi6, run twenty miles, roll a fatty and then read Abbey to me the rest of the day! that is a dream.
the girth pillar that is reality.
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belayed little mike up cunning stunt yesterday. apprently all the gear was there as it looked like mike made himself a nice prom dress with the way he sewed it up.
but really it is a proud lead on gear. after i tr'd (i don't want to die.)
we agreed that it would be a different climb with bolts. being able to climb cunning stunt with gear is artwork, though only rated 10d the gear placments requires a confident and skilled climber. just because we can climb hard does not necesarily mean we should. this is where i PERSONAL think that the new breed of gyms climbers first, real rock second is starting show. people have the ability to climb at these grades, but probably do not have the skill or knowledge. outside of perfect cragging these skills are a must. we can never have them completly honed, but we can always practice....practice....practice.
there are lots of climb at index that are safe leads, in my PERSONAL opinion lets leave a little boldness. mike needs something to do. if you want a good 10d lead with bolts there are several other worthy lines at the country.
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 02-27-2001).]
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 02-27-2001).]
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the kong adjustable fifi is the only reason i ever aid climb. I hate aid. unless it is on a free route that i can't do then its aid all the way
.the adjustable fifi is a small aluminum fifi hook that you run 6mm through, about 5ft worth. you just pull up and down on the cord. this tool helps you get into that top step. very nice. very cheap. faster than that yates dealy. plus in the epic that cord is excellent anchor material.
i imagine that promtnsprts has it? right? if not marmut in the megaopolis east of the lake will have it.
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uh oh, dave got new tools. watch out guys that old dog has new tools. this guy is going to be sick.
see you this weekend dave -
mike,
have fun up there cause right now i have been to index almost all week soaking up the sun and grating the skin off of my hands. sounds like fun is being had by all.
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wild things pack does not wear very nicley. though materials and craftmanship is excellent. the cold world pack really skimps on the materials and the craftmanship is average. the bd pack is nice, though fairly heavy for a summit pack. the bullet pack is nice though it is featureless. if you want something like that i would recommend the bd zippo pack. very verisitile. though mike's shoulder straps are ripping off(over use probably)
everyone is right about the summit packs. worthless really, unless you have big bucks and want to carry a whole bunch of xtra crap on the mtn.
i once was a multi-pack owner/user, now i have streamlined and only carry one pack always. i personally reccomend arcteryx packs. i have the no zone now. this is the pack. techy, but simple. there is only one frame sheet, that can be replaced with the ridgerest pad folded 3 times. the outer materials are spectra cloth and retains very little water, unlike cordura. the compression straps are a little jingus unles you like to fiddle with them. excellent craftmandship and materials. plus as an added bonus, it is made in north america.
in the end. try them all and find the one that fits your torso the best. marmot also makes some good packs.
HELP!!! I hate my job!!!
in Climber's Board
Posted
dbb,
don't live at camp four. it costs money. though if you do have to or really want to i reccomend to go to bed late and wake up early. just poach a corner of someones camp site. be nice, bring plenty of goodies from washingotn and share your beer. you will be looked down upon and as an outsider if you drink anything other then ol' e' or the king cobra. don't tell the locals how it is where you live. they don't care. they live in the the VALLEY! be friendly and just enjoy your time. ignore the rangers at all costs and don't shop lift. lol. free showers at house keeping or currry in the late afternoon. don't eat out. and don't offend the WAY! he will eat you alive
ask wallstein for the secret...secret..wink..wink beta. buddies got the place wired.