erik
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Posts posted by erik
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to keep aiden's post alive, cause it is always entertaining to read other's dreams. i have come to a preminsion(sp) that we should all take the summer off from climbing and become good citizens, helping others. this is a dream that includes world peace and the end of hunger. (very nice dream, though i am a 23yr old conservative)
or we could keep talking about the goods.
so as i sit here at work and look over guide books, read classic mtnering litiature(sp), i can come up with so many dreams and wishes. how can we only climb in the cascades or the rockies or the sierra and somebody said they had mtns out east.
how do we broaden our scope as climbers and people? i think that it comes with self motivation and intertwinging outselves with others that share a positive message. this website is a fullfillment of part of a dream.(read THE aac) here we can interact with other climbers, share our experiences and hopefully take something from each posting that we read. wether it be a flaming, outragoues dialouge or an actual trip report.
so my real dream for the summer is for complete utter bliss for everyone, for whatever that they do. haul loads to muir for others, send the girth pillar in a day or learn to tie the figure 8 at exit 38.
i write this for several reasons, some chick i met last night grounded me, a young climber i met last night shared his idealistic hopes and attitude & i have only slept 3 hours last nite. i saw myself in this "kid" and thought thats what i am or was like? harsh dude! as this past couple months i have been able to excel in my abilities and answer some of my dreams. i personally feel that i have grown and hoped to have made an impact on others in a positive light.
so in retrospect i would like to apologize/thank everyone i have impacted or who has impacted me and only hope that others feel the same.
so my dream is for everyone to have a totally excellent and safe summer.
p.s. wallstein leaves for the valley in a couple of days and i need a new super adventure partner to help push myself to new heights and dreams.
p.p.s. if you have read this far thank you!
jah
erik
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when it comes down to ethics- i personally only believe in one. don't damage the rock or any wilderness for your benefit. now on style of ascent that is a different matter. if you want to have someone carry loads, or you ae going to pull on gear or what not, then that is poor style. and if you want to start a good topic, though do it through baiting people, then that is worse than poor style. but does it really effect anyone if any or no style is involved? nope! the only thing you are cheating with poor style is your image(if it matters) and maybe good decision making skills for later. patterns do develop.
so if you want to use load hualers or pull on gear, or have a guide take you up a mtn.... blah...blah...blah....go for it, just as long as you are not adversly affecting the enviroment.
jah
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dru,
the rock in the area is similar to the rock in the rest of the snoq batholith? sections good sections bad, more on the bad side though. it is a metamorphosed granite. diorite. blocky, down slopers with incipients cracks that are brittle. the area is quite nice though, i personally would recommend a tip there, as there is always routes to be done.
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i have one and only use it occasionally. the small diameter has led to problems prussiking up it, though the tibloc works on it i think that it might damage the sheath on it. the short length and small diameter really makes it only sutible for glacier travel. i have heard of someone leading on doubled ice floss, kinda skecthy if you ask me. i originally thought that i might use it for x-treme scrambling and the what not for short raps, but after messing around with it decided that i would use a different rope. good glacier travel-bad everything else.
have fun
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i recently went through getting a new pack thing and i came home w/ an arcteryx nozone. i tried wildthings ice sac, it left a knot on my back for a week, mtn smith too many long straps, heavy and overkill on the suspension, osprey comortable pack too much suspension and really heavy. i looked at the ccw packs, they seemed to me a little lite in the contruction, i have a habit of breaking shit easily. the nozone has a removable frame and a tri folded ridgerest works great! in place of it. all the bells & whistles come off to strip her down to sub 2lbs. it has a really big collar so i can sleep in it(i'm not looking forward to this) the spectra cloth rips easy, but the damage does not spread.(i have also ripped codura packs so i wasn't that bummed though.) it comes with a 1 3/4" waist belt and a padded beast, both have gear loops and tool holsters. a bit pricy retail, but it is made in north america and arcterx has always been kind to me with any problems that i create. the biggest thing that i used to measure packs was the wieght vs capacity. i am really lazy(some people call them minimalists). tool tubes seem to add weight and if you have bent shaft tools sometimes it is difficult to use. if you are having problems keeping your tools in check then twist them a couple times before you lash the shafts down. hard to say what pack is best, but i only really trust my own opinion in the end. everyone else is just an appetizer for the brain. so go try them all on and you can borrow any pack i have to test out.
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i will give my vote for fiveten mixed masters....after climbing 5.10 in them, running between toulume & the valley(plus other runs), done numerous peaks with them and some v2 bouldering....i would have to say that they are mixed masters....as rod said though they do wear out fast....6 months is longest they've held up.
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mcmurra i drew a topo for the climb, but it is not needed. mike gave as good as a description as needed. you only need one #3 cam and it is optional if you don't fall. and like off balance offwidth moves.
have fun
probably the proudest route i have done(even more so than baby orca(a cult classic) cause it was with two of my best homey's mazike and my french friend al'ien)
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 03-15-2001).]
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 03-15-2001).]
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bonbon,
i don't place bolts. and everything else is a rumor.
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VALLEY COBBLER 253-859-9138
23639 104th ave se kent wa 98031
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i will have to disagree on page's workmanship, the only other company the delams as much is marmot resole. i would recommend the valley cobbler in kent. resonable, good turn around time and he will warranty poor workmanship.
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trango also reslings cams for a reasonable price.
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i alreay ski shisapangma, but i didn't used ski and had on a translucent biometric suit. i have the footage on my personal website. obnoxioustacomapersonwithanattitude.com
it's a great website full of spray and non-iformative beta, like the south buttress of the east ridge on brdge creek dome.
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i take no responsibility for anyone going to this website. though i do have to admit somehow it is entertaining.
it is not a porn site...i promise.
weird..dude!!!!!!!!!!!
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i caught a glimpse of what i was talking about this weekend. she can't read abbey or lead 5.12 anything, but damn she sure did look real good. just to let you know the season is on it's way!
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colin,
if you want to foot my bill, i will gladly give you all the help you need in reaching your current alpine goals. if not i can always donate a few precious days to anyones up and coming super e.p.i.c.s. wallstein you know the KIND!
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sick!
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can i get sponsered?
some of your t.n.f. friends were taking satalite panaroma pics and pounding pins in on the 1st pitch of zodiac last time i saw you guys. sounds like you got better. is britney working for you now?
[This message has been edited by erik (edited 03-13-2001).]
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sounds like baltimore dude, has the east coast attitude.
p.s. bro we don't care about your synical remarks. we have enough of it out here without your bullshit!
jah
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timl,
yes it was. though it was a little chillier, so we didn't get as nice a view though the scenery was still great! soon!
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no ray, are you offering? though adamson mentioned something about your sport bra collection. i've never heard of a sports bra that allows for beer gut.
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the gate is closed until the ranger can reach the trail head. gotta put up the new pay to play signs before the masses who believe in the evil plan get there. you can ski up the road and if you move fast enough you can probably pull it off in a sper long day. bring gingsing. good luck! i have the one day ascent planned out just waiting for some more melt off.
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he ain't shit compared to toby henson!
but he still a nice guy....i think...sure....
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pop-
you got the wack part right!
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EVERYONE,
one my mutli weekly days to the crag i have recently noticed an disturbing amount of trash. from smith rocks(really dirty) to index(dirty). so i am asking everyone to pick up all the garbage you see. i know i offer no incentive to this plan other then everyone taking pride in the places that the climb. i even avoided getting in trouble with ranger once cause i was picking up trash. it can only make the craggs a better place. thank you for EVERYONES help.
Bears Breast slab?
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
OH DRU!
well then in june lets go out there and put one up dude!
i really want a scary modern a4 loose block, stacked pin, sloping hook move route. maybe a barber pole route around the pile.