Climzalot

Thanks guys. That is just what I was looking for. Happy & Safe climbing

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Any other info on misc details like qality of the rock, the 5th class pitches at the bottom & halfway up the route etc. would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to assess the the feasability of a solo trip. Thanks

Looking for beta on the NE Butt. Approach, deproach, route, etc. Current info would be great as well as past experiences on the mountain. What is referred to as the "standard descent"? Is that the SW Couloir? Thanks climzalot@hotmail.com

A friend of mine got back from the climb yesterday afternoon. He reported soft snow conditions all the way to, from, and including the route. He said there were no major issues on the approach. They went over the Boston/Sahale Col. He did mention that the North Face will not be in condition for too much longer due to the Schrund which typically forms about halfway up. About 11-13 hours or so car to car.

Hey gshryer, I think we ran into you and your partner on the summit Sunday morning. We were the group that followed you up the last bit to the crater rim after crossing Liberty Cap. Way to go on the climb. I dont know about you but I was thankful for our timing as conditions obviously deteriorated as we were heading down. We had a difficult time descending with the wind and low visibility but managed to find a reasonable way to get off the mountain. Happy Climbing

As of Monday May 14th the gang is back in Kathmandu. Without getting to detailed, they were unsuccessfull in reaching the summit due to a combination of factors, hideous weather and poor route conditions. Apparently they only had a few days without precipititation both in BC and on the route. They are working to get out of Kath. by the 18th or 19th and start the trip home, but their departure date is not finalized as of yet. Make sure, if you get the opportunity, to give any or all of the team a warm welcome home.

I know the information that follows is not the worthwhile route beta you may be looking for, but a friend and co-worker of mine climbed the resolution arete last year and called it one of the best long free route he has done. Coming from him I did not take this lightly as he has climbed tons of worthwhile rock routes from here to Patagonia. I hear the crux is an 11a finger crack that splits a narrow arete in a spectacular position. If you give it a go, let us know how it goes. Good luck and enjoy!

I was actually climbing with Fred this weekend and he is part of the reason the ice screw is still there. Kind of a complicated story. Anyway I will keep my fingers crossed for a kind soul passing back by that way. Thanks for the tips.

Due to a miscommunication with my partner, one of my beloved ice screws was left to fend for itself about 1/2 way up the first pitch of Honeyman Falls in Lilloet. I know this is a long shot/needle in the haystack type request but if anyone happens to be on the route and comes across the little fellow I would greatly appreciate it's return. It is a 13cm BD Express with a blue gated Petzl Spirit biner keeping it company. Feel free to email me for route beta. Thanks for the consideration Coley Gentzel climzalot@hotmail.com

Steve, If you are looking for a true summit pack, Lowe Alpine, Serratus and a few others offer a light weight style summit pack which would fit into a larger pack quite much easier than the few packs that you had mentioned. Of the two models I mentioned I would probably recommend the Serratus over the Lowe for a couple of reasons. First it has 2 daisy chains and 2 ice axe loops where as the Lowe only has one of each. The Lowe comes with a removable foam bivy pad but you can add one to the Serratus for about a buck. Second the fabric on the Serratus seems to be a little more durable and it does a better job of keeping water out. Both models can double as a compression sack for your sleeping bag if you want to mold your sleeping bag into an unmanageable, unpackable shape. If you are not looking for a summit pack but rather a cragging/alpine pack I would look at the Arcteryx Khamsin series. Good quality packs that weigh very little for their size. Good luck in your search

Sold 1/24/01 -Climzalot

I am selling 2 black diamond shrikes. Used only 5 or so times on water ice only. One straight shaft w/hammer, 1 bent shaft w/adze. Both with picks that have been used but are still in great shape. Will sell individually or as a set. Asking $125 but would be willing to discuss price. If you are interested please email me at climzalot@hotmail.com

Rod, As of this weekend the conditions on the climbs near Icy BC were fairly good. The Deeping Wall was a little drippy but both Icy BC (minus the uppder tier) and the climbs located left of the Deeping Wall were seeing lead ascents. The temperatures never got above freezing in the canyons Sat or Sun. We also had the chance to scout out most of the climbs in the Bridge River area. We only managed to get on one of the climbs in this area but everything there looked to be in good condition and the temps stayed below freezing all day Sunday as well. I haven't heard any recent reports regarding Synchronicity. I hope this helps a little. Good Luck.

I have had the chance to wander up a route on both sides of Mt Adams and given the chance to pick a route I would definitely choose one on the north side and if your are up for it the Adams Glacier route. Although it is not terribly difficult, the terrain is more complex and/or interesting than some of the other routes in the neighborhood. It is not quite on the same level as say the North Ridge or Coleman headwall on Baker it is unique and challenging in its own way. Well worth while.