dberdinka
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Posts posted by dberdinka
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I'm apparently really glad I never make time to go cragging anymore.
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Marc Lederc just dry tooled the northeast buttress of Slesse in 5 hours so clearly people can move quicker. Apparently it's the rope slowing you down.
If you're willing to climb for 30 hours straight why did you bail?
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Soloing verglassed 10d in the pitch-dark after a night spent shiver biving in the rain. Sure why not.
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Choada still wants to go climbing? Who would have thought? A belayer might help though they're not redundant. Give me a shout.
I've used micro & mini traxions and petzl ascenders. They all work. The Traxions can be locked open (which is bad) and probably the most likely to get yourself hurt. If you use doubles of anything make sure you arrange them such that a failed device cannot interfere with a functioning device.
For example some people will clip their primary rope grab to their belay loop then drag a second rope grab below that one on a long sling. But if the primary rope grab fails I could imagine simply pushing the secondary rope grab down the rope.
Petzl has a good diagram somewhere of separating the devices with a quickdraw. A chest harness is easily improved with a sling or some bungy cord.
Dealing with two devices a pain. I've settled on one and just tieing a backup knot off the ground once I start climbing.
Adding some weight to the end of the rope (clip on your regular shoes) can help rope feed a lot.
I thought Blake's advice of using a static rope was bad, but apparently he's not the only climber who climbs 27 letter grades harder than me that recommends doing so. Considering no one actually owns a static rope anymore most people probably won't take that advice.
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If you place conservation ahead of recreation then go for it. But if you want to backpack to Snow Lakes, or bivi in the Blue Lake parking lot,or....?....I'd be careful what you ask for.
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I'll just add in that your approach to dealing with this may depend on your age.
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Better info from Pete Doorish ...on just about everything...but particularly Baring would probably make a lot of people happy.
Didn't someone finish an ice route on the west face of sloan?
Dave Brannon and I climbed a winter line on Hall peak eight years ago that may or may not have been new. The Beckey guide references the start as Skubi couloir after a kid who died in it.
Where do you draw the line in Darrington? Flight of the Falcon on Salish Peak is definitely a summit route.
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Thats pretty awesome that some unknown dude from Iran showed up and kicked everyone's butt. Allahu Akbar!
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I had this same thing happen in both hands below the pinky finger while bouldering in the gym. When I researched it, it sounded like Dupretins was a much slower developing condition where as this happened rather spontaneously. Never hurt or interfered with much so I've just lived with it.
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Looking through your photos again, particularly the one of Three Fingers, that's at best late-June snow conditions. Maybe I need to go climb the Roan Wall next week.
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Hard to believe there's a relatively straightforward scramble up and down Hall Peak. I was up there almost eight years ago to the day, great memory and radically different conditions.
So can we conclude that winters over yet?
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Shining Walls like 5.7 dood!
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1) Have climbed
Triple Direct
Ancient Gallery (obscure Zion wall with perfect splitters)
South Guardian Angel (best scramble ever)
SE Buttress - Cathedral Peak (perfect mellow rock route)
Fantasia- The Oracle (best desert adventure climb)
2) Capable of but have not climbed.
Cottontail Tower (capable in my mind, reality may dictate otherwise)
Dome Peak
Sheriffs Badge
Labor Day Wall - Shuksan
Dairyland - Nesakwatch Spires
3) Admire but will never climb.
True Grade VI nailup in Zion (to scary)
Scott Route on Asgard (to expensive)
Swiss Peak - NE Buttress (what a cool line)
Ragni Route on Cerro Torre (what features)
Japanese Gardens (to weak)
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Nice report. That was my stomping ground BITD. Crazy lack of snow! and I thought the Baker Ski Area was in bad shape.
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What'll happen when Tommy sends and Kevin doesn't...
Nothing will happen. Other than Adidas maybe not wanting to be represented by the guy who couldn't quite climb the hardest route in the world. Being a fully sponsored climber must bring a substantial amount of stress to the activity. Regardless I hope he's able to appreciate how awesome his life is right now!
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Read the Rolling Stone article last night. Gave the impression that girls (along with their families) in that culture accept rape as a necessary side effect of maintaining some sort of social privilege/position.
So I glad I exist in our little remote bubble up here in the PNW.
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Wayne - the cap rock is climbable but highly variable and appears to generally get more weathered and friable as the angle increases. There are a handful of good routes that all tend to be very slabby or follow blocky ridges. As the angle increases I think you would be looking at bottoming rounded cracks with a friable and sandy skin and the real potential to rip entire pitches. The unclimbed summits out there are are unclimbed for good reason.
In the area I was in I would highly recommend the South Guardian Angel. It's got to be one of the most classic summit experiences in North America. Seriously, it's that good.
Heard good things about the west ridge of East Temple which is probably the hardest of the cap rock "trade" routes. Over the years people have done some pretty astounding traverses with hard climbing on bad rock and huge adventurous descents.
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Trip: Zion - Sand Dune Summits
Date: 11/3/2014
Trip Report:
Over the years I've made a habit of quick trips to Zion to knock off one more obscure wall or another. I doubt there is a corporation more openly hostile to its customers than Allegiant Airlines. However, living in Bellingham, they are supremely convenient. You can work a full day and still make it to Zion by midnight. Spend a couple days adventuring then make it home in time for lunch.
Last year I scored in early November with perfect weather and a completely deserted park. This year I went for a repeat. Of course as the day approached the forecast deteriorated as the first "major" winter storm coincided exactly with my itinerary. Climbing was out so I chose to instead explore an area I've become increasingly enamored by, The Great West Canyons of North Creek.
This exceedingly rugged area occupies a large portion of the park but with the exception of the famous Subway is rarely visited. Almost alpine in nature there are numerous named and unnamed summits, many of which have yet to be climbed. I settled on repeating the high point of the Bishopric. This prominent sandstone pyramid may have only received it's first ascent in 2007. Cross bedding allows for typically easy scrambling on what appear to be steep blank slabs.
Between rainstorms, thunder, hail and flash floods I managed to stumble into the area and climb the peak as well a handful of other obscure domes. While the hardest climbing I did was a 20' slab of 5.0 the trip was as every bit as amazing as well every other trip I've ever made to Zion. Can't wait to go back.
Good weather in 2013
On the Approach
After the Storm
Bishopric
South Guardian Angel
Mighty Mount Ivins
Desert Alpine
Approach Notes:
Follow the Elk Tracks
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BITD while climbing the CH route, it appeared to me that there was a hidden ledge system that connected the Polish route and the CH route together exactly at the base of the hanging ice dagger on the Polish route. Seemed like the combination would create a very long WI4 route.
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I was about to post the same general question. Wet October, 6-12 inches of snow and now cold temps in the hills and town. I'm thinking Alpine water ice must be off the hook in places like J-berg, Big Four etc. Pics anyone?
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Good work. Great photos. 27 I can handle. When I first started reading that I thought it was going to be a 12 year old or something.
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Raping 4 people or more should be no problem for you Bob, that we can all be sure of.
The first time I tried to climb CC there was something like 12-14 people standing around the base, it was crazy. We went and climbed Ginger Cracks like you recommend. In the afternoon we encountered the 2nd or 3rd party that had only made 3 or 4 pitches up due to how slow the initial parties were.
Eventually climbed it but agree that it was not somehow particularly better or better at all than many many other climbs.
Still think Community Pillar is the best!
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Personally, I always offer to pay if my partner's rope/gear gets stuck/lost, but never ask to be repaid if it is my gear/rope that gets lost/stuck. For me, a good partnership is far more valuable than a few dollars for some lost/stuck gear.
Agreed. Sometimes your just going to loose gear climbing. Taking to it like an accountant is a good way to loose the partner as well.
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That cabin is a friggin obnoxious, ugly eyesore. That guy might as well fly an enormous banner that says "I'm a self-entitled jackass". Seriously he should be embarrassed. T
Harrison Bluffs beta
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Climbed there last week. Found it to be surprisingly good for being so obscure/neglected. Face and crack climbs on the lowest tier were dry and sunny. Lots of nice looking flakes and cracks higher on the hillside. I'd go back.