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Everything posted by mark

  1. Garden Wall

    In the old Clint Cummings index guidebook, there is a climb shown called “nailing practice” rated A1, no stars, in the area that Daryl is refering to. Three or four years ago, I bought a used pin rack and wanted to practice, so I went looking for it one hot, humid summer evening after work. I headed off into the woods just to the right of the Wart with a good sized load of aid climbing gear strapped to my back. Before I even got across the tracks, I was drenched in sweat, which seemed to act as a homing beacon for every mosquito in the greater Index/Baring area. Once they found me, they never left, constantly hovering around my face and making kamikaze dives into my ears, when they weren’t actually sucking my blood. Annoyed, but undetered I plunged into the trailless woods in search of the “nailing practice” pitch. To the right of the Wart, the terrain is made up of treacherous moss covered talus and rotten logs. I kept falling, when the moss would tear off a rock that I was jumping on to, or a rotten log would break under the weight of me and my sizeable pile of aid gear. Falling is a much bigger deal when you have a really big load on your back, it hurts more and it’s much harder to get up. After a miserable hour of falling, swatting, and looking, I was down about 3 pounds to sweat loss, the mosquitos had made off with a good quart of my blood, my shoulders were killing me from the mountain of gear I was carrying, and I didn’t want to move anymore, because I kept fallin on mossy rocks and rotten logs. I gave up on finding the elusive “nailing practice” pitch and decided that instead I would just do some traversing a few feet off the ground on some hooks and pin stacks. I set-up and traversing left, made about half a dozen really dicey moves on crappy hooks and pins in incipient cracks. I was just starting to have fun when, standing on a pin stack, I made a really long reach to place a hook, the stack blew, and due to the fact that I was stretched out I hit the ground really hard. No I mean, really hard! That was enough for me. I packed up my bag, said good-bye to the mosquitos, tripped over the moss covered stones and rotten logs back out to the car, and drove to the Index store for an ice cold 16 ounce can of Schmidt Ice. Except for the cold beer, this was easily the worst time I’ve ever had climbing. I guess the moral is, as previously stated in this thread, pin practice at Index isn't a good idea, and I might add, its not very fun either.
  2. Mullet Pride...

    http://mulletsgalore.com[ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: mark ]
  3. Negativity is bad for our sport

    I agree with Matt 100%, this site has become too negative. Nobody even argues against that any more, everyone knows it has. Now the argument is, why everyone should have to tolerate that negativity. This website has taken on a distinct personality and it is not the personality of a ‘Cascade climber’. If it were a person, I would describe Mr. CC.COM as a self centered 20-something, without the life experience necessary to realize what an egocentric dumbass he is. Mr. CC is negative, selfish, meanspirited, and arrogant and he justifies this behaviour as okay, because he is having fun and is entertained. He doesn’t understand the importance of treating others with respect and doesn’t possess even a modicum of humility or common sense. Sure sometimes he’s funny, he has some route beta, and he shares my interest in climbing, but mostly he is just an obnoxious, little PRICK! Why would I want to hang out with somebody like that? Why would I want to logon to a website like that? I DON’T. I won’t be reading the next post or any of the ones after that. Why would I care, what an obnoxious, little prick has to say. Regards
  4. Actually, I think you could access the scramble route on Maudes south side from the entiat river trail, if you were so inclined. I believe you could climb out of the valley up to ice lakes and on to the south ridge. I haven’t done this, but when I was off route once, I explored more of this area than I wanted to and it appeared possible. But don’t listen to me, I was off route! There is also a reference to this made in Darin Berdinkas trip report of his Entiat icefall climb. Check out his website, he talks about descending from the south ridge to the entiat valley via Ice lakes. Could make for a fun day of exploring, even if he never gets on to the route. Rgds
  5. Crack climbing

    As previously mentioned, you can't beat the UW rock for learning to crack climb. Easy access for practising techniques that will get you started crack climbing and keep you progressing. Get down there and start doing laps. Ask for "Coach", he'll get you started. Rgds
  6. I've had a pain in my pointer finger (in the big first knuckle right next to the hand) since mid may that has kept me from doing any hard rock climbing. After almost 3 months of rest, it's not getting better and I'd like to go see a doctor. My question is: Do any of you have experience with a doctor that you can recommend for this kind of injury? Somebody who will actually work the problem and not just tell me to ice and rest it. Not a GP, but someone that has some experience with hand and finger problems. Are there any Docs in the Seattle area that specialize in these climbing related finger injuries? Thanks
  7. Looking for a real "finger doctor"

    3 months seems like forever, when you can't rock climb. In the void left by my inability to climb rock, I'm becoming a lowlife peakbagger, shamelessly summiting peaks via 3rd class routes and talus fields. I need help and I need it bad. Sounds like Seattle Ortho & Fracture Clinic may be worth checking out. Thanks for the input everybody.
  8. Not best beer, best beer name

    Schmidt Ice and the Lone White Wolf was the coolest beer icon ever. Duh.
  9. Fernow

    Hi Lisa, I think I met you in Leroy basin a month or so ago. I was just coming back from climbing Fernow with my dad and we stopped and talked to you and your partner. If you’re thinking about climbing it from Leroy basin (I assume you are, based on our conversation), I don’t think there is a way to skirt that glacier remmant that you will need to descend. The snow was pretty steep there when you first start descending (I’m guessing 25-30 degrees) and it was hard the morning we were there, so I was glad to have my mountaineering boots on. Still light hikers teamed up with aluminum crampons would be a good light option if you were so inclined. Have a good climb. Here are my notes from the Fernow climb. CLIMB: SEVEN FINGER JACK AND FERNOW VIA THE SOUTH WEST GULLY DATE: 6/22-6/23/01 THE PARTICULARS: The approach – After 3 miles (approx 1 hour) you cross Leroy creek, a good size creek. On the other side you’ll find a trail leading up to the basin. It’s a direct steep trail, you’ll get a good workout. The bivy - plenty of camping in the basin. For Fernow there are also some bivy sites at the 7,100 col before dropping down on to the glacier. The route – Seven Finger Jack is straight forward. Just make sure you climb the right finger, which is on the far left of the summit area. Don’t get sucked into climbing the ones further to the right. For Fernow climb from the basin up to 7,100 foot col. You’ll find the 3rd class rock that will allow you to access the glacier about 200 feet to the left of the col. Descending the glacier and climbing the wide gully is straight forward. The gully has easy heather and slabby terrain down low and then bad talus up higher. At the very top of the gully is a broad col, do not climb quite that far. Immediately to the left of the broad col climb the first narrow gully that leads to the ridge crest. Here you’ll find wide easy ledges that lead across the south east face to the last 75-100 feet of 3rd class scrambling to get to the summit. The descent – For both climbs just reverse the route. The rack – No gear, no rope. You may want to bring crampons for the glacier on the way to Fernow (especially if late season). The time: Approach 3 hours to Leroy creek basin. Seven Finger Jack Route 2-3 hours up. 1-1.5 hours down. Fernow 5 hours from camp to the summit. 4 hours back to camp. Another 2 hours back to the cars.
  10. Cliff I got an ice ax I would make you a deal on, Let me know if your interested.
  11. Maude & 7 Fingered Jack

    Thanks Tod. I took my 13 year old son up Carne mountain a month ago and it looked pretty direct to get to ice lakes from there. I had no feel for the time, though, because we were going at a 13 year old's pace. 1.5 hours to Leroy basin! Damn boy, you’re fast! My best has been 2 hours. Thanks again. [This message has been edited by mark (edited 07-26-2001).]
  12. Blanca Lake to Glacier Basin?

    Yes, there is a cross country route that goes from Blanca lake to the Monte Cristo area. It doesn't have to go through glacier basin though, I think you can cut down to Twin lakes and out Poodle dog pass. I don't know the specifics but here are some things to consider: 1) The route is described in a book that was published by the Mountaineers back in the 70's "Monte Cristo- A guide to Hiking and climbing" (something like that). I'm sure they would have a copy of this in their library. It may be worth doing the research. 2) I've climbed Columbia from Glacier basin and can say that getting to Glacier basin from the Columbia Glacier this time of year can be problematic due to large moats that can block access. Also, the small glacier in glacier basin that leads down from the notch off of the Columbia Glacier can be blue ice by Sept and if I remember correctly is probably around 30 degrees in spots, not too technical, but not ground for those with "minimal mountaineering skills". 3) A better choice for the adventurous cross country traveler is probably to descend to Monte Cristo via twin lakes and poodle dog pass and hike back up to Glacier basin. I hope this info helps. [This message has been edited by mark (edited 07-26-2001).]
  13. Alpine Ice Tools

    Thanks fishsticks, I appreciate the input. rgds
  14. Maude & 7 Fingered Jack

    Tod, do you think that the carne mountain high route would save any time getting to ice lakes compared to the leroy creek approach? Any chance you're the Tod from Everett?
  15. Alpine Ice Tools

    Right on about the grivel goulotte picks. I bought a used pair of super coumayers tools when I first took up ice climbing that had goulotte picks on them. I used them for 3 seasons and got use to them. Then I replaced them with a pair of Rambo tools with evolution picks and I thought I noticed an improvement (but I convinced myself that I was just getting to be a better climber). So I used the Rambo evolutions all last ice season, then this summer pulled out my old super coumayers and slapped a set of new goulotte picks on them, thinking I’d make them my dedicated alpine tools. I get up in the mountains on my first steep pitch of ice and I was having to swinging 2-3 times to get a stick. By the time I bashed my way to the top of the pitch I was completely trashed. Thanks god the climb only offered one pitch of steep ice. Question is do you think the evolution pick is to whimpy for alpine use. It seems awfully thin to me? Fishsticks, I’ve read some of your other posts and I must say, you are very insightful about gear. Its nice to hear your opinions.
  16. My observation is that more people will respond on this site, with their take on the bickering, and who is right and who is wrong, (like that helps) than there are people that will post with advice on the route! Just let it die for crying out loud. Who cares about the bickering or what your take on it is. They'll both feel better after a few hours on the pristine granite of Stuies north ridge.
  17. Suggestions

    Well here are some ideas for some routes that might fit what you’re looking for: To get your ice climbing fix I would recommend any of the following: Chiwawa via the Lyman Glacier- an easy alpine ice climb that offers 2 to 3 pitches of hard ice in Sept. You can pick a line of varying steepness depending on what you are looking for, but probably its 40 degrees on avg with some short steep steps. The rest of the climb and approach are straightforward. Kyes peak/Pride glacier – hard to get to and a much more strenous alpine outing than Chiwawa, but definitely away from the crowds. 1,500 ft of steep snow and ice (40 to 50 degrees) with a complex rock scrambling finish. Mount Bakers Coleman Glacier – spend a day honing your steep ice climbing skills, seracing on the lower Coleman, then run up the coleman deming route and tag the top of one of our famous volcanos. Expect a to see a few people here. For walk up routes: A trip into Leroy creek basin could be beautiful in late Sept/early Oct, as the Larches will be turning golden. And you can tag 2 of Washingtons 9,000 foot non volcanic peaks, Seven Finger Jack and Maude. With a little more work you could also get a 3rd 9,000 footer by climbing the SW gully of Fernow ( although the glacier may be a little icy by then and hard to descend). I just did Robinson via the S.E ridge (I think?) in the Paysten wilderness and really enjoyed it. We did it in a long day , but there is a beautiful camping spot at a nice little alpine tarn surrounded by larches right at the base of the ridge. A nice walk up route with a bit of 3rd class. For rock climbing: Easy rock climbing classics abound, but are typically teaming with other climbers. I would suggest Kangaroo Temple as an easy alpine rock climb that doesn’t see too much traffic. There are a number of lines at varying difficulty levels form beginning to advanced. E face of Mixup is a little more involved, even if the grade is easier, it’s a harder climb when looking at the complete package. Not too many climbers on it either. Enjoy your trip.
  18. Black Peak

    We did the N.E. ridge. My notes from the climb are below. Every bit of this approach and climb is very straight forward. We started the approach from highway 20, and didn't go all the way to Heather pass. Instead at 6,200 ft there is a trail that cuts to the right, take that to Lewis lake. Hike around Lewis lake and without to much trouble you'll find another way trail that leads up to Wing lake. We climbed the N.E. ridge(which I thought was excellent) and descended the south route. Both routes offer very straightforward route finding. The south route is heavily cairned. The view of Goodes N.E. butress from the top of Black can not be beat. Enjoy CLIMB: BLACK PEAK - NORTHEAST RIDGE DATE: 9/16-9/17/00 THE PARTICULARS: The approach - follow the very good trail past the cutoff trail to the lake and take the first way trail that branches to the right (6200ft elevation). When you get to the talus field look for a trail that skirts along its down hill margin, it is easier going than the talus hopping. Circle around lewis lake and find the way trail on the other side that leads up to Wing lake. The bivy - plenty of camping at either Lewis lake or Wing lake. The route - Nelson/Potterfield description is spot on. The descent - easy and well cairned. No steep snow this time of year. The rack - one 50 meter rope , we had 5 cams, 2 medium sized hexes and 5 stoppers size 4-8. Cams worked best. Would have been better to have 3 or 4 more (could have made longer running belays). The time: Approach 3.5 hours to Wing Lake. Route 1 hour from the lake to the ridge. 3.5 hours on the ridge. Descent 1 hour to descend the south ridge route. Another 2.5 hours back to the cars.
  19. We both took aluminum crampons and we took one ice ax between the 2 of us. The stretch of snow in the cascadian couloir was short (one rope length), but it was steep and hard. It would have been hard to avoid this one pitch of snow. We wore light weight approach shoes (guide almighties), so we needed our crampons. With a heavier boot you may not need them at all. 4 pointers would probably suffice either way. Maybe given the low snow year you could get around the snow on the rock. Anybody out there done the route lately who has beta regarding this? Rgds
  20. We were attempting to do the route in a day. So we left a car at the Ingalls creek trailhead and then drove around and did the approach up Mountaineers creek. Then pick up that car later. Our reasoning was if we were slower than expected the cascadian couloir would be a reasonable descent in the dark. Ended up we made it off the mountain well before dark. Also, it is my understanding that the descent of the Sherpa glacier (to get back to Mountaineers creek) this time of year is pretty technical. We wanted to go really light (so we could go fast) so didn't want to take the heavy boots, ice axes, pickets, etc. that this descent would require. This is what I have heard about the Sherpa glacier descent. I've never done it, maybe somebody else can confirm if this is indeed the case. Rgds [This message has been edited by mark (edited 07-23-2001).]
  21. We did the route last year and getting on to the route gave us some problems. Look out for the rap slings, they are there becasue people were off route. After a little bit of 4th class scrambling, I thought the key to finding the first pitch was the tree with the long skinny trunk, watch for it. Its a great route worth of its reputation as a classic. Enjoy. Here are my notes from the climb. CLIMB: STUART - FULL NORTH RIDGE DATE: 8/04/00 THE PARTICULARS: The approach - follow the nelson/potterfield description to the point where they describe leaving the stuart lake trail. From there don’t drop back down to Mountaineers creek as they describe, instead follow the flagged and cairned trail that stays high and traverse into the upper valley. The trail is well marked. The bivy - we bivied in the valley right next to the creek about 1000 ft below the ridge. There are sites higher but getting water there maybe a problem The route - The bottom gave us some problems. Pitch one- look for the 8ft bush/tree with a long skinny trunk along side the right of the crack, about 30 feet above that is a squeeze slot about 1.5 to 2 feet wide. Pitch 2- climb from the alcove up to a distinct ledge and then climb the crack that takes off from the middle of the ledge (it doesn’t look like a 4 inch crack). Don’t climb the short 20 foot 4 inch crack on the right. After that just find your way by following the path of least resistance. On the lower ridge, we went left for one running lead, then in an area of class four white colored rock cut hard right. The descent - well cairned. Make sure you head right at the bench below the snowfield. We crossed the snow field in light hikers with aluminum crampons. We were only on the snow for about one rope length, scrambling on rocks the rest of the time. The rack - one 50 meter rope is sufficient, even if hauling the gendarme. We took one 3.5 inch cam, one 3 inch (#3 camalot), doubled up on the 2.5 through 1 inch sizes, singles in the tcu sizes and 5 med to small stoppers. The time: Approach 2.5 hours to the valley, 1 hour from there to the route. After getting on route, about 4 hours on the lower ridge. Another 4.5 on the upper ridge. Descent 2.5 hours from the summit to Ingalls creek. Another 2.5 hours from Ingalls creek to the cars.
  22. crampons

    I have a pair and love them. The ability to go light(even if your not fast) makes climbing more fun. Sometimes you have to take crampons for short strectches of snow and its nice to be able to shave a few ounces on this one typically heavy item. The binding on these works well with lighter approach shoes too, giving you an even bigger weight savings. I've used mine with my guide almightys and lowa triolets. I'd sell my soul to shave an ounce of weight. Get em. Rgds
  23. Dan's Dreadful Direct restored

    Well just my opinion, I think you guys have done a good thing, in increasingly bad style. Do it and then just shut up!! The way you're going on about it, you look like a bunch of idiots. A little reserve and humility go along way. Rgds
  24. black peak/south slope

    oops [This message has been edited by mark (edited 07-19-2001).]
  25. black peak/south slope

    I climbed the N.E ridge and descended the south slope last September. The route just below the summit that leads to the 3rd class section was well cairned at that time. If the cairns are gone, just move around the right side of the summit block, on easy wide ledges, to about the n.e. corner. There you will find the 40ft of 3rd class (I think it is in a kind of shallow gully) that leads to the summit. Enjoy the view of the NE Butress on Goode, it is awe inspiring. Rgds