Jason_Martin

The technique commonly taught by American Guides is the PBUS technique. It's becoming a lot less common to see people teaching climbers to belay like what's shown in the video anymore... J

The American Alpine Institute is seeking an individual for an entry-level administrative position that will evolve into a program coordinator position after six months. This is a year-round full-time administrative position at one of America’s leading mountain climbing schools and international guide services. Duties: -Process client registrations and oversee payment schedules. -Coordinate programs with clients via email, phone, and Skype. -Assist in the management of programs in California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, France, Switzerland, Bolivia, Ecuador, Peru and Chile. -After six months, take over the management of programs in California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, France, Switzerland, Bolivia, Ecuador, Peru and Chile. -Assist in the upkeep of the Institute website and social networking outlets. -Participate as one member of a dynamic team in strategic and operation planning and in the design and completion of special projects. Requirements: -Knowledge of climbing and mountaineering. -Abilities to write and speak articulately, creatively and effectively. -Ability to use email, Word, and Excel. -Outdoor roped climbing experience is required. -An ability to work with a high level of energy, commitment and responsibility. -Knowledge of climbing in the program areas to be administered is helpful, but not required. Location: Bellingham, Washington – A beautiful and environmentally conscious town ranked #1 in the United States by Outside magazine for quality of life in community with exceptional opportunities for national caliber outdoor sports. (climbing, mountaineering, sea kayaking, mountain biking, trail running, etc.) Compensation: $22,000 to $29,000 (DOE). Vacation pay, holiday pay, and health insurance benefits increase with time. Note: This is not an instructional or guiding job. This is an administrative position. We will accept applications through February 3rd. For a prospectus and application, please visit: www.alpineinstitute.com/about-us/employment/ Please feel free to contact Jason Martin at 360-671-1505 or jason@alpineinstitute.com with any questions. www.alpineinstitute.com

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The American Alpine Institute will be celebrating International Mountain Day with pay-what-you-can (but you don't have to pay) rock rescue and avalanche awareness seminars on December 14th in Everett. The Rock Rescue Seminars will take place at the Everett Vertical World at 12:30pm and 3pm. Then in the evening we will have pizza, beer, live music, a raffle, an auction, and finally an Avalanche Awareness seminar, also at the Vertical World. All profits from this event (and a sister event a week earlier in Bellingham) will benefit the Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center. To read more about the event, please check out: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/misc/imd/benefit-events-for-the-northwest-weather-and-avalanche-center/ If you have any questions, please call 360-671-1505 or email me at jason(at)alpineinstitute.com. Jason

The American Alpine Institute will be celebrating International Mountain Day with pay-what-you-can (but you don't have to pay) rock rescue and avalanche awareness seminars on December 7th in Bellingham. The Rock Rescue Seminars will take place at Vital Climbing Gym at 12:30pm and 3pm. Then in the evening we will have pizza, beer, live music, a raffle, an auction, and finally an Avalanche Awareness seminar, all at Vital. All profits from this event (and a sister event a week later in Everett) will benefit the Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center. To read more about the event, please check out: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/misc/imd/benefit-events-for-the-northwest-weather-and-avalanche-center/ If you have any questions, please call 360-671-1505 or email me at jason(at)alpineinstitute.com. Jason

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam on Thursday, October 10th at Mount Erie, near Anacortes. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on: THURSDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2013 We are primarily interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for FREE. Mock students will work with the guides from approximately 9am to 4pm. If you need to leave early, that's certainly fine. The ideal "mock client" will have rock shoes, a helmet and a harness, though if you don't have one of these things, we may be able to provide it. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals. To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/catalog/amga-single-pitch-instructor-course-and-exam/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call AAI between 9am and 5:30pm at 360-671-1505 on a weekday. Thanks, Jason

Alaska Range Programs and Expedition Coordinator Duties: --Coordinate the Alaska programs and oversees client bookings for AAI’s eight Denali expeditions and a variety of Alaska Range Mountaineering trips. --Assist in the management of programs in the Cascades, the Sierra and in Colorado. --Advise AAI’s executive director on Alaska mountaineering programs, risk management, and human resource issues. --Participate as one member of an executive team in the hiring and training of staff, in strategic and operational planning, and in the design and completion of special projects. --Option #1 – If an applicant has a guiding background and a strong motivation to continue working as a guide after each Alaska season; this position can be combined with guide work during the summer season. The person in this position will also work one Alaska program per season, most likely a Denali expedition. --Option # 2 – If an applicant doesn’t have the requisite guiding or climbing experience to work as a guide, then the applicant will combine Alaska Range coordination with foreign programs coordination. Requirements: --Abilities to write and speak articulately, creatively, and effectively --An ability to work with a high level of energy, commitment, and responsibility --Alaska Range Guiding experience (or personal Alaska climbing experience) – This is preferred experience, but we will review the applications of active mountaineers with a strong interest in Alaska. Location: Bellingham, Washington, a beautiful and environmentally conscious town ranked #1 in the US by Outside magazine for quality of life in a community with exceptional opportunities for national caliber outdoor sports (cragging, alpine rock, glacier climbing, sea kayaking, mountain biking, trail running, river running). Compensation: $32,000 to $40,000 (DOE – especially guide experience). Vacation pay, holiday pay, and health insurance benefits increase with time. Guiding wage is determined separately and is based on experience. Starting Date This position will begin in September, the actual starting date is flexible. For a prospectus and application, please visit: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/about-us/employment/ Submit application, résumé, and cover letter to jason@alpineinstitute.com Please feel free to contact Jason Martin at 360-671-1505 or at jason@alpineinstitute.com with any questions. www.alpineinstitute.com

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam on Friday, June 14th in Leavenworth, WA. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on: FRIDAY, JUNE 14TH We are primarily interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for FREE. Mock students will work with the guides from approximately 9am to 4pm. If you need to leave early, that's certainly fine. The ideal "mock client" will have rock shoes, a helmet and a harness, though if you don't have one of these things, we may be able to provide it. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals. To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/catalog/amga-single-pitch-instructor-course-and-exam/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call AAI between 9am and 5:30pm at 360-671-1505 on a weekday. Thanks, Jason

We are running a last minute deal on our AIARE Level I avalanche course with a classroom session in Bellingham on Friday and just outside the Mount Baker Ski Area on Saturday and Sunday. The normal cost of these courses is $325. We have a handful of slots still available for the seriously discounted price of $200 each. Give us a call and we'll get you set-up. To read more about the course, click here. Jason

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We are trying to fill two last minute slots in an AIARE Level I avalanche course with a classroom session in Seattle on Friday and on Mount Rainier on Saturday and Sunday. The normal cost of these courses is $325. We have two slots available for $200 each for the January 11-13 course. Give us a call and we'll get you set-up. To read more about the course, click here. Jason

Our first event in Bellingham was a smashing success. We are really looking forward to running this again in Everett! Jason

Our benefit is coming up this weekend and we still have lots of room in the free rock rescue programs and at the party. Come check us out! Jason

Sorry about jumping on you... I did have a bit of a visceral response to the idea that clubs have an interest in people actually learning, with the implication that guides don't an interest in that. I probably should have pointed this out in my original response... Jason

This is ABSOLUTELY UNTRUE. AIARE courses are courses with a set curriculum and are not "guided trips." Many students who take these courses take them with partners or meet potential partners at the course. Guides who teach these courses are extremely concerned about the long term safety and well-being of the students in the course. The last thing that a guide would ever want to hear is that someone who took one of his or her courses was killed in an avalanche. The majority of the students that we see in avalanche courses are local climbers and skiers. Many of them will never participate in a guided trip, which makes the instructors even more paranoid about preparing the students effectively for the field. Guides who are avalanche instructors take their position extremely seriously... Jason

The American Alpine Institue will be celebrating International Mountain Day with pay-what-you-can (but you don't have to pay) rock rescue and avalanche awareness seminars on December 8th in Everett. The Rock Rescue Seminars will take place at the Everett Vertical World at 12:30pm and 2:45pm. Then in the evening we will have pizza, beer, live music, a raffle, an auction, and finally an Avalanche Awareness seminar, also at the Vertical World. All profits from this event (and a sister event a week earlier in Bellingham) will benefit the Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center. To read more about the event, please check out: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/misc/imd/benefit-events-for-the-northwest-weather-and-avalanche-center/ If you have any questions, please call 360-671-1505 or email me at jason(at)alpineinstitute.com. Jason

The American Alpine Institue will be celebrating International Mountain Day with pay-what-you-can (but you don't have to pay) rock rescue and avalanche awareness seminars on December 1st in Bellingham. The Rock Rescue Seminars will take place at the Bellingham YMCA at 12:30pm and 2:45pm. Then in the evening we will have pizza, beer, live music, a raffle, an auction, and finally an Avalanche Awareness seminar at the Zuanich Park Boathouse. All profits from this event (and a sister event a week later in Everett) will benefit the Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center. To read more about the event, please check out: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/misc/imd/benefit-events-for-the-northwest-weather-and-avalanche-center/ If you have any questions, please call 360-671-1505 or email me at jason(at)alpineinstitute.com. Jason

We just had a meeting with the NPS last week about the bolt removals. The only bolts that were removed were on the Forbidden descent gully. The NPS has not removed any other bolts... Jason

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam on Sunday, September 30th in Leavenworth, WA. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on: SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 30TH We are primarily interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for FREE. Mock students will work with the guides from approximately 9am to 4pm. If you need to leave early, that's certainly fine. The ideal "mock client" will have rock shoes, a helmet and a harness, though if you don't have one of these things, we may be able to provide it. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals. To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call JAMES between 9am and 5pm on a business day at 360-671-1505. Thanks, Jason Martin Director of Field Operations American Alpine Institute

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam on Sunday at Mt. Erie, near Anacortes. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on: FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2012 We are primarily interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for FREE. Mock students will work with the guides from approximately 9am to 4pm. If you need to leave early, that's certainly fine. The ideal "mock client" will have rock shoes, a helmet and a harness, though if you don't have one of these things, we may be able to provide it. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals. To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call JASON between 9am and 5pm on a business day at 360-671-1505. Thanks, Jason Martin Director of Field Operations American Alpine Institute

I'd like to take a moment to defend YD Adventures. I have had the opportunity to work with YD's lead rock climbing instructor. He has taken two AMGA SPI recertification exams from me (passing with flying colors both times) and is actively involved in the Mount Erie climbing committee. It is my experience -- through the knowledge of this individual -- that this is a conscientious organization that cares about the areas where they operate. I don't know the instructor on site, but know that he was trained by their lead instructor. The lead instructor has demonstrated that he meets industry standards on two occasions with me. So I can only assume that the group was operating well within the best practices of the industry. The lead instructor called me to ask about my opinions on the original poster's observations. As such, it's clear to me that regardless of the validity of the original concerns, YD is taking the criticism seriously and is actively contacting professional guides and guide services to see what they do... To me, this last point shows a pretty high level of professionalism... Jason

The American Alpine Institute is currently seeking an enthusiastic individual to participate in a 6-month paid internship. The Administrative Support Intern supports the Program Coordinators by assisting with sales, registrations, client communication, and office recordkeeping. In addition, the intern supports the IT Manager by assisting with development of the company website. Duties and Hours This position normally requires between 20 and 30 hours per week. Principle duties are as follows: • Assist with routine office work, including processing trip registrations, answering phones and responding to emails, and keeping accurate paperwork and database records. • Gain familiarity with AAI’s program offerings and take growing responsibility for representing these programs accurately and attractively in our marketing collateral, client communications, and phone conversations • Assist with development of the Institute’s website, including migration of content from old blogs and web pages to new containers. Compensation This position is designed to provide the intern with entrance to the professional network of the mountain guiding community and the larger outdoor industry. The principle tangible benefit of this job will be the opportunity to receive recommendations from our director and senior staff and to benefit from their connections. However, in addition, there are three forms of direct compensation: • An hourly wage commensurate with experience • Tuition waivers for many of our climbing programs • Eligibility for pro purchase programs for equipment and clothing Application To learn more about this internship, please log onto: http://www.aai.cc/Employment/ To apply, please log onto: https://alpineinstitute.wufoo.com/forms/project-internship-application/ If you have any questions whatsoever, please feel free to call me at 360-671-1505 or email me at jason(at)alpineinstitute.com. Thanks, Jason

Right on guys! Way to make it happen! Jason