Jason_Martin
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Posts posted by Jason_Martin
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For an easy approach and a truly fun route, try "The Moustache, Pencil Thin Direct" on Mt. Baker.
Approach via the North Side of the mountain, Heliotrope Ridge Trail, and ascend the bottom of the route as if you were climbing the Coleman Deming Route. Before reaching the saddle, veer left and traverse steep slopes to the base of the gully. This gully can be seen to the left of the rocks on the left side of the Roman Wall. This is the Pencil Thin variation to the route.
At times in late season these gullies can be filled with steep water ice. At least one party has found a vertical ice variation in these gullies late season.
Happy Climbing!
Jason
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I have been guiding for the last few years and have spent a significant amount of time on the two most popular routes on Mt. Baker. Many people bring dogs up onto those glacier. This is a practice that is getting more and more upsetting to me.
Though the sun does not seem to have an effect on every dog, it definately has an effect on some. I witnessed an incident last year where a dog had to literally be carried off the mountain due to the combination of snow blindness and exahustion.
I have witnessed a number of incidences wherein a dog has become extremely exhausted in deep snow. These dogs were essentially carried out as well.
In every occurance of snowblindness or exahustion other climbers have volunteered to help the pet owner evacuate the animal. Thus they lost their own trip to help these animals with thoughtless owners.
It sounds like these doggles things are the way to go. Especially if you don't want your dog to be responsible for ruining your trip or the trips of others.
Jason
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I skied it about two weeks ago and found it to be a lot of fun. A few uphill sections in sticky snow slowed us down, but for the most part it was good.
I got off Glacier Peak yesterday and the snow level was at about 5000 feet on the trail. I expect it should be the same on Shuksan.
Jason
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I know this is off the topic, but there are people who have been back in the area looking at this...
How were the snow conditions on the approach? How soon does snow cover the trail?
Jason
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Stevo,
Part of climbing is talking about it. Debates about climbing ethics at the crag or in the mountains are fun to discuss. Routes are fun to discuss. The friends we make and the people we climb with are fun to talk about.
It's not fun when you insult the people involved in the discussions. In fact it's quite immature to call people "little bitches." Especially people you don't know.
It's also quite immature to assume that people who talk about climbing don't climb. In fact, that doesn't even make sense. Every climber I know loves to talk about climbing, whether they are dirt-bag climbers that spend three hundred days a year on routes, or weekend warriors that spend most of their time on plastic.
It's a lot more fun to hear your opinion when you don't act like a sixth grader.
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"Killer Bees" are a real threat to climbers in the Desert Southwest. Nine out of ten bees in Las Vegas Valley are of the Africanized variety.
The biggest dangers tend to be on First Ascents. Popular routes don't tend to be a problem, but it's a good idea to pay close attention to where you are climbing on a FA.
If there are hints of a bee hive on a route in Red Rocks or any such area, don't do the route. A single sting can excite an entire hive into a full-on attack. Not a pretty picture if you are three pitches off deck at a hanging belay.
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There have been two ice routes put up on the Northwest Face of Dragontail Peak.
The one to the right of Serpentine Arete was done by John Wasson and Tim Wilson in 1984. There is an extremely brief description of the route in the 1984 AAJ.
In 1988 Rob Cotter and Mark Bebie did a route to the left of Serpentine Arete. They finished their route on the right hand ice-filled corner of the Fin. They gave the route a rating of AI 3. A brief description of the route can be found in the 1989 AAJ.
If you go up there, let us know what you find.
Good Luck,
Jason
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I too have had problems with my elbow. And everything Steve wrote is correct. The one thing I'd like to add to his prescription is ibeuprophin. This helps to relieve swelling.
When the pain in my elbow was at a peak, a doctor prescribed this to me with food. You should probably consult your physician before doing anything beyond this and what Steve wrote.
Good Luck.
Jason
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It's definately a bit cold on the shaded routes yet at Red Rocks.
For sunny long trad routes take a look at:
Johnny Vegas 5.7
Beulah's Book 5.9-
The Friar 5.9+
Solar Slab 5.6
Horndogger Select 5.8
Jubilant Song 5.8 with a Long Approach
Black Orpheus 5.10-
Levitation 29 5.11
Olive Oil 5.7
My personal favorite routes are Chrimson Chryslis 5.9, Frogland 5.8-, and Refried Brains 5.9. Unfortunately these routes are in the shade.
You don't really need a headlamp for Tunnel Vision, I've done the route a few times and you can see fine in the tunnel.
To the right of Tunnel Vision there is a REALLY good route called Group Therapy. At 5.7 I think it is the best route on Angel Food Wall.
Anyway, have a blast!
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Hey Everybody,
I thought I'd let you know how the ice climbing guidebook is coming along. There are a few things I'd like to let this community know about and a few general questions I have.
To start with, I've taken on a partner for this guidebook project. Alex Krawarik is a great ice climber, excellent researcher, and an all around good guy. He's now co-authoring this book with me.
I've had help from a good chunk of the climbing community. To date, the following people and organizations have been implemental in contributing information:
Erik Snyder, Mark Shipman, Krista Eytchison, Larry Nevers Jr, David Zulinke, Kevin Pogue, Dunham Gooding and the staff of the American Alpine Institute, Dan Smith, Paul Butler and the Staff of Mazama Mountain Guides, Mike Layton, Tim Crawford and the staff of cascadeclimbers.com, Geof Childs, Doug Littauer, Dave Burdock, Brett Bergeron, Darryl Cramer, Rolf Larson, William Robins, Ade Miller, Matt Perkins, Mike Maude, Paul Detrick, Jim Nelson and Greg Muller.
Though we've had a great deal of help, there are still places that we have very little information on. Following is a list of areas where I have info about a few climbs, but know that there are quite a few more out there.
1) Olympic National Park:
No Info.
2) Entiat River Basin:
Info about a few climbs. Primarily the obvious waterfalls.
3) Quincy Wildlife Area:
I have info about two routes on Ancient Lake and one route on Hidden Lake. From what I understand there are up to ten or eleven more routes in the area.
4) North Side of Columbia River near Camus:
During very cold seasons there are a number of routes here. I have a 1993 guidebook by Tim Olson with a little info. However the beta in that guide is slim. If anyone has his email, I'd love to get in touch with him.
Lastly we're interested in stories about unusual formations and ascents. For example there is a story about a couple of guys climbing a smear of ice on Mt. Erie. If you've done any unusual ascents or know of any let us know.
My email is:
j_dougie@yahoo.com
I'll talk to ya' all later,
Jason D. Martin
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I got a copy of this book after simply looking up Dallas Kloke's address in the Anacortes phone book. I sent him a letter and he replied with a price figure for the book. Then I just sent him a check directly and got a copy of the guide.
The book is interesting but unfortunately set up in a rather odd manner. The routes are in alphabetical order as opposed to in order by region. This makes it a bit difficult to get one's bearings in the book sometimes.
Mt. Baker
in North Cascades
Posted
I was also on the North Side of Baker over the weekend. It is very icy and sking it would be challenging as there are sections of exposed glacier ice throughout the route.
With proper training and proper gear, two man glacier travel does not push the limit in the Cascades. However, proper training does indicate that you should be able to build an anchor and haul an unconscious partner out of a crevasse by yourself. Practice doing this by yourself, of course, makes perfect.
Jason