[dragontail]

There have been two ice routes put up on the Northwest Face of Dragontail Peak.

The one to the right of Serpentine Arete was done by John Wasson and Tim Wilson in 1984. There is an extremely brief description of the route in the 1984 AAJ.

In 1988 Rob Cotter and Mark Bebie did a route to the left of Serpentine Arete. They finished their route on the right hand ice-filled corner of the Fin. They gave the route a rating of AI 3. A brief description of the route can be found in the 1989 AAJ.

If you go up there, let us know what you find.

Good Luck,

Jason

[Help! Elbow tendonitis (???)]

I too have had problems with my elbow. And everything Steve wrote is correct. The one thing I'd like to add to his prescription is ibeuprophin. This helps to relieve swelling.

When the pain in my elbow was at a peak, a doctor prescribed this to me with food. You should probably consult your physician before doing anything beyond this and what Steve wrote.

Good Luck.

Jason

[Recomend routes at Red Rocks-Joshua Tree]

It's definately a bit cold on the shaded routes yet at Red Rocks.

For sunny long trad routes take a look at:

Johnny Vegas 5.7

Beulah's Book 5.9-

The Friar 5.9+

Solar Slab 5.6

Horndogger Select 5.8

Jubilant Song 5.8 with a Long Approach

Black Orpheus 5.10-

Levitation 29 5.11

Olive Oil 5.7

My personal favorite routes are Chrimson Chryslis 5.9, Frogland 5.8-, and Refried Brains 5.9. Unfortunately these routes are in the shade.

You don't really need a headlamp for Tunnel Vision, I've done the route a few times and you can see fine in the tunnel.

To the right of Tunnel Vision there is a REALLY good route called Group Therapy. At 5.7 I think it is the best route on Angel Food Wall.

Anyway, have a blast!

 

[Ice Guide Update]

Hey Everybody,

I thought I'd let you know how the ice climbing guidebook is coming along. There are a few things I'd like to let this community know about and a few general questions I have.

To start with, I've taken on a partner for this guidebook project. Alex Krawarik is a great ice climber, excellent researcher, and an all around good guy. He's now co-authoring this book with me.

I've had help from a good chunk of the climbing community. To date, the following people and organizations have been implemental in contributing information:

Erik Snyder, Mark Shipman, Krista Eytchison, Larry Nevers Jr, David Zulinke, Kevin Pogue, Dunham Gooding and the staff of the American Alpine Institute, Dan Smith, Paul Butler and the Staff of Mazama Mountain Guides, Mike Layton, Tim Crawford and the staff of cascadeclimbers.com, Geof Childs, Doug Littauer, Dave Burdock, Brett Bergeron, Darryl Cramer, Rolf Larson, William Robins, Ade Miller, Matt Perkins, Mike Maude, Paul Detrick, Jim Nelson and Greg Muller.

Though we've had a great deal of help, there are still places that we have very little information on. Following is a list of areas where I have info about a few climbs, but know that there are quite a few more out there.

1) Olympic National Park:

No Info.

2) Entiat River Basin:

Info about a few climbs. Primarily the obvious waterfalls.

3) Quincy Wildlife Area:

I have info about two routes on Ancient Lake and one route on Hidden Lake. From what I understand there are up to ten or eleven more routes in the area.

4) North Side of Columbia River near Camus:

During very cold seasons there are a number of routes here. I have a 1993 guidebook by Tim Olson with a little info. However the beta in that guide is slim. If anyone has his email, I'd love to get in touch with him.

Lastly we're interested in stories about unusual formations and ascents. For example there is a story about a couple of guys climbing a smear of ice on Mt. Erie. If you've done any unusual ascents or know of any let us know.

My email is:

j_dougie@yahoo.com

I'll talk to ya' all later,

Jason D. Martin

[Winter Routes]

I got a copy of this book after simply looking up Dallas Kloke's address in the Anacortes phone book. I sent him a letter and he replied with a price figure for the book. Then I just sent him a check directly and got a copy of the guide.

The book is interesting but unfortunately set up in a rather odd manner. The routes are in alphabetical order as opposed to in order by region. This makes it a bit difficult to get one's bearings in the book sometimes.