pete_a
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Posts posted by pete_a
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The I Designs MK1 XL is a nice compromise between the Eldo and I-tent...the MK1xl is as long as the Eldo so taller folks can still stretch out, but its as narrow as the I-tent, so you can keep the tent weight to a minimum. Opting for the MK1xl's lightweight floor option makes up for the added weight of adding the second door option and still the two-door Mk1xl ends up being lighter than a one-door Eldorado.
..whoops, I had written "MK2" in this post earlier, thanks for noticing my mistake Josh, sorry for any confusion.
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sorry for the low resolution pic...but at least it shows what to expect. Its been several years since I've been there, but just crossing the carbon glacier you should expect a fair amount of crevasse navigation and probably some bad snowbridges too.
I had the unfortunate experience of having a storm (that wasn't in the forecast) roll in while bivied at Thumb Rock, no viz, lots of snow, could hear avies all around us, took eight hours just to descend back to the base of the ridge from Thumb Rock, then we started punching through snowbridges once back on the glacier...yuck.
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Maybe this already got posted on another thread but I thought I'd copy some info from a post by someone on teletips about donations:
"From the local paper (http://www.pressherald.com/news/local/040519climber.shtml), 'The family asks that donations in lieu of flowers be made to the Cape Elizabeth Land Trust or the Peter Cooley Mission and Outreach Fund.' I don't know about the M&O fund, but I understand the family is involved with the local Episcopal church. I can vouch for CELT (http://www.capelandtrust.org/), which is a great local organization conserving public access to land in this town south of Portland. Mr. Cooley was a board member and was very involved in local conservation efforts both in his town and in the surrounding area."
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Should add that the megamid that Ryland and I used on Denali was our 'cook tent' we used other tents (and an igloo) to sleep in, but brought the mid so all five of us could hang out in one spot during meals. Having the extra lounge room was awesome.
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Late June? are you serious? thats a month later than usual...well, I'll keep my fingers crossed that Cayuse Pass opens up before then and that will shorten the approach to White River down to a 6-8 mile bike ride.
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I'm sure there are exceptions to the rule, but I'd put money on that if most folks went to 17k (or even 14k) in three days, they'd be sicker than hell and sucking oxygen in the ranger tent at Genet Basin the next day.
(remember up in Alaska, 17k seems 'higher' than near the equator due to the thinner atmosphere up near the poles)
I believe taking two weeks to get to the summit is the fastest pace that parks service recommends. Remember that if you climb the Rib, you'll probably need a week just to get to Genet Basin camp, then acclimate for another week up there taking day trips up to 16k and 17k before you can drop back down to the start of the Rib.
The group I was with had excellent weather (or rather, had good weather when we needed it) and we summited via the Butt in 14 days and were back at basecamp in 17 or 18 days.
If you want make sure you have time to climb the mountain regardless of what the weather decides to throw at you, pack 4 weeks worth of supplies and you'll be able to acclimate slowly and handle just about any storm. Odds are you'll be giving away a lot of food and fuel at 14k camp, but extra food/fuel is cheap insurance to having a successful trip.
When you went to 17k in three days before, once you were at 17k did you set up camp and stay for a week? or were you quickly on your way back to a lower altitude? remeber you could get stuck at a high altitude for a long time if you get trapped by a storm and dealing with edema high up would be awful.
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My recommendation would be to skip your plan to move up to Camp Hazard, just hike to the base of the Turtle on the first day, camp there, and go for the summit from that camp. Moving camp up to Hazard won't get you much elevation gain and puts you all the closer to the ice cliffs that occationally puke debris down towards Hazard.
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so its kinda weird that I was the one who started this thread, two years ago - that original post is from 2002, and for some reason it was resurrected recently....anyways, yes- as a matter of fact I was goofing around on rainier this weekend, we climbed the Ingraham glacier route and skied most of it, we downclimbed about 500vf by the ingraham headwall that was a little too ugly for us to ski safely, so it was a fun weekend, but no true continuous ski descent.
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there is a little pie-slice of land that runs up the Easton glacier thats a 'recreation area' not a wilderness area...snowmobilers are allowed to high-mark the moraines and fall into crevasses to their heart's delight up there and its legal.
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Left Muir about 5am yesterday, topped out at around 11:30, started skiing down around noon, great conditions for climbin...snow coulda been better up high for skiing and my legs certainly coulda been in better shape for rainier. We skied/side slipped really hard snow down to about 500vf above the Ingraham headwall then put the crampons back on to descend the slope immediately above the headwall. Our legs were too tired to confidently ski the bumpy icey stuff that had an ice cliff and crevasses as the runout, though a friend of mine skied it just the day before, so its certainly do-able. Once below the crevasse/ice cliff we put the skis back on and the skiing was great down the Ingraham. Skiing to the car from Muir was painful and my legs felt like jelly.
So, we didn't ski the whole mountain, but we had fun, and it was a good reality check that I need to spend more time working out before trying to ski the Emmons this summer.
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If you're looking for ski crampons for tele gear to use with any tele binding, you can take your skis to Pro Ski and they can mount a little plastic clip that will accept Dynafit ski crampons...they fit it in just behind your tele bindings, its really slick, and the clips probably only weigh and ounce or two.
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Hoping to ski the Ing. Direct route this weekend, we're just a team of two right now.
Wondering if anyone else has plans to try a ski descent this weekend and would like to partner up. Preference would be to find another independent group in case pace/etc isn't compatible.
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Rossignal released an annoucement that they've decided to change the graphics on those skis.
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just curious what time you left the trailhead and what time the snow was starting to corn up...probably skiing the west face tomorrow and my buddies and I were trying to figure out the best time to be topping out to catch the good snow.
Thanks!
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I wouldn't bank on getting a spot in the muir shelter if you're going to be there on a weekend...that place is a zoo friday and saturday nights.
Rainier is just totally unpredictable, if the weather is perfect you could only get by with bivy sacks and no tent at any of the high camps, but its equally likely that you'll be cutting snowblock walls around your tent to keep it from caving in.
Even if its not all that cold, running your stove out in the open while trying to keep the spindrift from invading your sleeping bag and the wind knocking out your flame is a pain.
Your best bet might be to have a couple different plans figured out and make your decision (tent, no tent, muir shelter, ingraham) based on the forecast you have the day you leave the paradise parking lot.
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Sabretooth- just because the road is plowed up to the hairpin does not mean you can drive up there. The gate on the highway is still locked at Silver Star until the whole highway is cleared. If you're desperate to get up there before everyone else, you can park at the Silver Star gate and bike up to the hairpin.
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definitely depends on how warm you sleep...cause Figger Eight and I were both at 17k at the same time, and clearly I needed more insulation than he did.
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I used a -20/30 down bag last year, spent two nights at 17k in late May, I needed to keep my primaloft pants and FF frontpoint jacket on in my bag but with that combo I slept fine...I wouldn't have used a bag that was any lighter.
In my opinion dryloft is unnecessary in such a cold/dry environment, if anything the laminate shell fabric will help to trap moisture that is trying to escape from your bag while you're sleeping. Frost build-up on a bag can easily be shaken out (or heated off on sunny days).
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if you want a good laugh, listen to 'State of the Union' by Cloud Cult...alternative speech from rearranged samples of Bush's idiotic ramblings.
you can hear it on KEXP's online archive
http://www.kexp.org/archivedaudio.asp
play the archive at 1/20/04 7:29am...
...oops shoulda mentioned that you will hear the last few seconds of a song by Unkle before the State of the Union song comes on...
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capitalism...haha
the price was better when shipping was more than the liners themselves. still not a bad deal though.
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I've monkeyed around with shoving my intuition liners into my koflach shells and I noticed that the intuition (thermoflex-whatever you want to call them) liners are thicker than the koflach liners so I can't use the liners for my ski boots in my koflach boots.
But if you can get the sizing of the shell and liner right to fit your foot using a Degre (or any) plastic shell with an Intuition liner that would work fine in my opinion (and for what its worth Mark Twight recommends using thermoflex-intuition liners instead of stock liners for plastic boots in Extreme Alpinism)
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There was a thread on telemarktips.com this fall regarding a source for really cheap thermo liners -made by Intuition for Morrow snowboards- if they still have them in stock it could save you a lot of money
thread on teletips:
http://www.telemarktalk.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12210&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
company thats selling the liners:
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...always possible that he became so affected by hypothermia and dehydration after the first night that he could no longer think clearly or figure out where he was or where he needed to go despite being in an area that seems relatively straighforward and easy to navigate in.
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-I've used Ginkgo before, started taking it two weeks before leaving for Denali and kept taking it while on the mountain. Figured that it couldn't hurt giving it a shot, and I didn't need diamox while I was climbing so maybe it helped.
here's a link showing a study that was done:
http://www.high-altitude-medicine.com/hot-topics.html
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Intuition liners are as warm if not warmer than the Koflach Arctis liners...I used Dynafit randonee boots with Intuition liners in them on my Denali trip and they were plenty warm-still used 40 below overboots on summit day though.
I've had Koflach Degre boots for several years, when the liners packed out I bought new arctis exped liners for my old degre shells and thats worked fine for me on climbs this past year.
If you can find a pair of used Koflach shells that are the right size, you can buy a new pair of Artis Exped liners for $125 and your total cost will probably be way less than that avg price for new Artis Exped boots.
Hilleberg Nallo 2/ Bibler I/ Stephenson 3R- Best?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
Josh- yes, I had meant to write MK1xl, whoops.