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Alex

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    Local Ice

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Just a note on the climb "just North of H202 with no first pitch and no name". This route can be gotten on by traversing and climbing the horribly loose 4th class rock on the left side, in 55m, to a belay on ice. I recommed small nuts, bugaboos, and a #3 camalot, as the pro is there, and you will really need it. Fun excercise though!

    Alex

    Two way radios

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    radios are particularly handy in situations where you have more than 2 people climbing or skiing in seperate teams that move at different speeds, like on Rainier or skiing St Helens or doing day-long approaches in the backcountry, or climbing two seperate routes on the same massif. They work much better above treeline (duh), but in general are useful for coordination when it comes time to get back to camp. Also useful in alpine situations where you have a "basecamp" and are doing long routes from camp, such as on Dragontail. If you are overdue chances are your buddies can contact you at predetermined times to see how you are doing...

    Driving to Banff

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Mike, if you don't drink the Big Rock Traditional and say "washroom" they'll peg you for the Yank you are, and you'll get no respect. The only Yank the Canadians respect is George Lowe, because he's the only Yank who has ever outdone them at their own game wink.gif

    Sport Ice Climbing - to bolt or not to bolt!

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    To expand..

    As would be retro-bolting Wyoming Sheep Ranch

    As would be placing bolts on Online, which despite having one bolt per pitch a la Yosemite and Tuolumne standards, is a very safe climb, for a 5.10 climber.

    As would be placing bolts on established thin ice testpieces like Drowning, Burning.

    However, that said there are alot of incindents where placing post-FA bolts have been accepted - Dana's Arch to preserve the rock from further pin damage, Stern Farmer to protect the hideous groundfall HB offset moves 30 feet up, the freeing of established hard aid routes in some areas, when permission by FA party is given....

    I think its ultimately a judgement call, err on the side of respecting other's style over your own inadequacy.

    Deals at Second Bounce

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I went there today and found the following items that may interest readers of this board:

    used XGKs for 35$

    an older style X-15 BRS adze overpriced at 95$ with Stinger pick

    A pair of really nice Mont Bell Goretex pants, lighter weight, sz M, I think around 65$

    A Marmot GoreTex Primaloft Parka, yellow/red, with hood, forget price but seemed reasonable.

    Cheers, Alex

    Endurance vs Power

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    Dave Reid and Dan,

    I think it would be helpful to me to see a brief outline of what your regimen consists of. I have known Dan for quite some time and know what his training is like in general, but I am curious what both of you are doing specifically for various things. I am not interested in wieghts and number of reps so much as the excercises themselves.

    I know Twight goes into in in depth and there is alot of literature, so I am just finshing for ideas and examples.

    I am a person who 1) HATES training, 2) believes climbing is the best training for climbing and 3) HATES training, so I am trying to break my habitual hatred of training by taking small steps and finding things I like to do.

    Might be something to post on a seperate thread.

    where's the best top-ropable ice near Leavenworth

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Hi, despite the sarcasm of the previous post, Drury really is just about the only thing that is going to be "in" with the current warm conditions.

    However, it is not exactly top-ropeable, and has some serious potential avalanche danger that you will not see from below, until you are in the terrain trap.

    So I would suggest you do not try to go into Drury Falls for a practice session.

    In a typical winter, Hubba (H)(B)ubba is well-known and a good bet for practicing.

    I would go rock climbing, this weekend, personally wink.gif

    Alex

    Black Diamond Mountaineering Shovel

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Frankly, I laugh at the droves of people who carry Lexan shovels. I broke a friends while casually testing it ("hey, thats pretty light! How well does it shovel snow?..".<crack> ) one Winter. So I stuck with the somewhat-tried and and somewhat-true Voile Pro, thinking that it was beefy enough to handle at least non-avalanche-debris-type snow. That fantasy burst the day I arrived in Alaska, while I was digging out basecamp. Bent the thing in half. At least we had 4 (now 3) shovels between us, so we werent completely screwed.

    These days I still carry a Voile (I like the SOS shovel too), as I believe aluminum blades are a happy medium between durablilty and weight, and it *can* move a bit of snow if it doesnt break first, but I am not kidding myself. The only thing for real digging are the large bucket steel shovels you get at the hardware store.

    As for the argument that it is too heavy, well, if your partner *lets* you go into the backcountry without an adequate way to dig, thats their issue. Might as well leave the beacons home, too....

    Happy climbing!

    Alex

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