Alex
-
Posts
4663 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Alex
-
-
You can rent general mountaineering equipment through REI in Seattle when you arrive, but their store hours will make for a late arrival at the mountain the day you pick up the goods....
-
The feeling I get from you is that you think that it my be the climbing community's responsibility to protect the information, and would like to set up some infrastructure to make that possible. I actually raised this very issue, as my first ever post on CascadeClimbers.com, and got some good responses, so it is on a few people's minds.
I would also be willing to help, though I also have a project in the works that will require at least another year or two of research and time.
I think, though, that those people interested in this issue should meet here in the Pacific Northwest sometime soon, and hash out some of the problems and concerns that might be encountered. Public BBS tends to get a little tedious to read for details...
Alex
-
I am not answering the question, only building it. This is my take:
The Web is not a good place to post new routes because
1) It is not a public forum, controlled by an organization
2) There is no incentive to edit, revise and publish records at a given point in the future.
Fred Beckey is a prolific updater of his own work, and I believe this is a very viable option. The Cascade Alpine Guide is a still the last word when it comes to references on the Cascades.
The American Alpine Journal is unfortunately too broad in scope to really tackle this issue. Nor does it get published or people really read it with any regularity to make it a good way to ditribute route info.
The local organizations here have no real inceentive to do the (very hard) work required to keep information up to date, though the Moutaineers would always be a likely candidate if the organization were a little more driven to do this kind of thing.
Finally, the climbing rags have little incentive to publish route information either: not very marketable, really.
So what does that leave? Individual authors who have the passion, drive, energy, contacts, and support to compile, edit and revise, and finally publish printed guidebooks. These individuals are few and far between.
Cheers, Alex
[This message has been edited by Alex (edited 01-23-2001).]
-
I always wanted to do a roadtrip that long until I realized I would be so sick of climbing after 3 weeks I would want to just go back to work...
Oh well, cha'que a son gout
Alex
-
#####
[This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-10-2001).]
-
since none of these posts have anything to do with Banks Lake other than say "Banks Lake sucks", I'd like to refute that.
Banks Lake currently has the best ice around, except Drury. I have no idea what others are accustomed to climbing in Washinton, but there were plenty of technical full pitch things to climb at Banks. From the Cable to the boat launch past the State Park, there are up to 20 lines formed.
Routes on the other side of the lake may be in, but the lake is not frozen.
Also Miller Time and Kickapoo Joy Juice look in, and that lake *is* frozen.
Locals have said this is a very strange year, with some things not in and some uncommon lines formed. We are feeling the affects of a dry fall, dry winter, and not enough cold, but Banks Lake will keep you busy even beyond Devils Punchbowl.
Worth the drive in my opinion. Alex
-
I do, I was there Sunday (yesterday)
See my post under the "local ice" thread, or contact me directly at recompense@hotmail.com
-
I am backing up my vote for the Prophets by buying a pair. Since no one in the US has the "old" BRS Prophet in stock anymore, I went to Barrabes. They made it worth my while, since 2 BRS Prophets cost the same as a single CF Prophet - 320$.
As soon as I get them I will be selling at least 1 of my venerable X-15s.
Alex
-
#####
[This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-10-2001).]
-
#####
[This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-10-2001).]
-
Paul who sells boots, do (did you) work at Bellevue/Redmond REI?
-
I found some very good deals at REI (Flagship) last night - La Sportiva Trango Plus for 99$, with about 8 boxes sizes from 42-45 left. This is Sportiva's premier summer alpine climbing boot. Might want to call the store and put your size on hold if you are interested.
Also Powerade was on sale for 4.99 the 2 pound can. I bought 5 cans (they make nice gifts)! I don't know how much there is left.
-
Jon Fisher, you are absolutely right in saying Americans are more into the wilderness experience than technical climbing. Which is why American climbers will always suck. Except for Lynn Hill!
Drawing from our American Car Culture, I would personally rather see a paved road to Kennedy Hot Springs. Maybe it would come a few hundred yards shy, so as not to overly disturb the hordes of tourists who would then show up.
On that note, those blasted people in Colorado have (count em!) TWO roads to the summits of 14,000 foot peaks, why do we have to stop at Paradise, I would rather see it go to Muir at least, and have it be plowed year round. I also think the road should be extended to top of Palmer on Hood, so I don't have to walk those boring miles and can still feel good about not taking the snow cat. That way Rainier becomes a day trip, as it should be, and Hood becomes and after-work training hike, like Mt Si.
Hell, with W in office, if we band together, we can get the Wilderness Act repealed and get the roads and huts we need into all those pristine climbing areas! A road into Cirque of the Towers sure would be nice. We could offer support for drilling the ANWR (no climbing there, so who cares?) in exchange for a set of roads and huts into the most majestic alpine climbing areas.
Yeah, I can see it all now....
[This message has been edited by Alex (edited 01-10-2001).]
-
The US organized climbing scene is lame.
On that note, US climbing rags are lame. Like, I REALLY want to know about another route in Eldorado Canyon.
Of course, if we had HUTS! like those wily Canadians, alot more people would likely suddenly be interested in joining the alpine clubs. Imagine, a hut system throughout the Cascades - a hut at the base of the E Ridge of Eldorado, a hut at Goat Pass on Mt Stuart...a gondola to Colchuck Lake from Icicle Canyon!
If we had real climbing rags, like the old Mountain from days of yore, we might know something about other places to climb, other than Eldorado Canyon that is.
Oh well.
Alex
Alpingesellschaft, Die Peilsteiner
-
I think the point is, that with BPs the point is moot, as you can mix and match to whatever your climbing style.
Dan, if your budget is really that tight, then just buy one tool.
One thing to note, the BP adze is a godsend for just about everything. Makes real nice work of steep snow when topping out on a route and the ice runs out. You cannot say the same for non-modular Black Diamond adzes.
Another thing to note: the "old" x-15s were all made with carbonfiber shafts, bonded rubber or no. I found the Prophets have a better swing than the old and new X-15s, especially with the curved shaft.
-
Actually, they named their tool after the French Climber, Christophe Profit.
Just kidding, its spelled "Prophet", and (as you know
) thats my vote!Alex
-
Zeno,
I use the "original" Wild Country Rocks in addition to the BD Stoppers, they make a nice addition to the rack. I like size 2,3 and 4.
I would suggest you also supplement your rack with some BD copper-steel nuts in their larger sizes and especially check out Hugh Banner Offsets. The Offsets and nuts like them (RPs) are not exactly made for holding long leader falls, but they also hold in small cracks and pin scars like nothing else. I like the Offsets better than RPs, but a mix is always good.
-
#####
[This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-10-2001).]
-
I bought a pair of Mnt Hardwear Altitude gloves yesterday, they are 49$ retail. They are made, not with Gore-Tex, but with "Conduit" material. Although the gloves are not taped (the mitts are), thats nothing SeamGrip can't help.
Does anyone own or use the Condiut material or own the Altitide glove? How waterproof is waterproof on these gloves? How durable is the palm on these gloves? Any issues?
-
I would like to try to call a polite halt to the Mountaineer bashing.
I sometimes shudder at my own incompetence in the field, and would like to humbly remind us all that we all had to start somewhere, that we were all gumbys once.
I log on here for good info and intelligent discussion. Lets try to keep the flame sessions on rec.climbing or at least to Private Messages, eh?
Thanks!!
Alex
-
Hi SHW, welcome to the Pacific Northwest, where you will find lots of interesting things to do, and a fun and friendly (sometimes) climbing community too!
I had a girlfriend who has taken the WAC course and know many people who "are" Mountaineers. The basic courses are pretty comparable in that you will get a decent group-style introduction to climbing with either. Through the group and the membership organization, you can find other people of similar ability to climb and grow with.
They do not honor each others courses because, quite simply, these are rival social organizations, they are not "technical" certifications. The climbing courses only hold value to the particular organization with which you are participating - frankly, most other climbers couldn't care less whether you've completed some course or not; climbing competance can be ascertained pretty easily.
Most people (myself included) have a somewhat guarded view of WAC'ers, Mazamas and Mountaineers because novice members of these orginizations have been featured in some prominent rescues and accidents over the years and its generally thought that large groups, such as Basic Course outings, tend to impact the environment and are unsightly in the backcountry. Fair or not, thats the perception.
Given a choice, I would attend both group's meetings and see who you click with better. Outside the organizations, as I said, the membership and course graduation has dubious value...
Alex
-
With all due respect to Yvonne, Black Diamond has done nothing inovative since the first X-15 came out, and the fin gate. I still have my pair of Chouinard X-15s, and live and breathe by them. But you know, the neutrino isnt the only light biner on the market...there is the Helium. The wire gate is only evangelized by BD, it was used in sailing ages before it was used in climbing. Carbon fiber glue R&D does not impress me, as many many other industries, including bikes, aerospace etc use carbon fiber and have had to learn how to glue "stuff". So sorry, I remain unimpressed - BD offers a decent and thoughtful product, but I would say that and more about Petzl, Kong, Camp, Charlet, Grivel, Salewa, Trango, and other manufacturers.
Aux Vieuex Campeur is a great shop in Paris that I am a big fan of, I did not know they were online! They have large buying power in Europe. Still, I think prices elsewhere in Europe are pretty high!
Alex
-
North Sister - NE Arete
Just wanted to share with you all a wonderful climb that most Washington climbers might not be familiar with, since its so far South - the NE Arete on North Sister in the Three Sisters Wilderness in Oregon! North Sister is an aesthetic peak with varied terrain and easy access, even in winter. In 1994 I was climbing and living in Oregon, working as a research assistent for the Oregon Cooperative Fish and Wildlife Research Unit, and had lots of time to climb in the Oregon Cascades and at Smith.
I chose this route because a month prior, in May, I had attempted the Early Morning Couloir, and had been stormed off. My partner climber the NE Arete 2 weeks later, sans moi, and, not to be outdone, I wanted to go finished my unfinished business.
I decided to do something new and different for me, a moonlight solo! I picked a weekend with full moon in June and set out from Pole Creek so I would arrive at the base of the E Face before dark, the Villard Glacier approach. Indeed, I arrived at about 7:30 pm, and decided that in order for it to be considered a real night climb, I would have to wait until after dark to proceed. So I sacked out and watched the sun go down over Oregon. The air was still, the night clear. At 8:30 I set out.
The freedom that I experienced while climbing up the steepening snow to the NE Shoulder in the next several hours will long stand in my mind as definitive and superlative. The sunset and moonrise, the vast views North to Mt Adams and South to past Thielsen, the Cascade crest silent and peaceful, the movement of crampons and tools over snow elevated me to something more. I had set out to prove myself better than my partner with this climb, and instead I discovered the simplicity and harmony of the alpine night solo. The majesty and beauty of the Oregon Cascades below my feet, North Sister became the teacher.
I reached the shoulder of the summit ridge far too soon. It wasnt even midnight! This was not according to plan, I had expected to reach this point much later, as my proposed summit time was sunrise, about 5am. The summit was now only an hour away, and my partner had sternly warned that I not attempt to solo the summit pinnacle in the dark. So I tried to bivy.
I had a bivy sack and some clothing, but no sleeping bag, no down sweater. I put on everything I had, climbed into the bivy bag with a 3/4 length pad at 10,000 feet on North Sister, and was comfortable for about 20 minutes. Then I started shivering and freezing. After an hour of fitful sleep and uncontrolled shivering, I at last broke open the emergency space blanket and wrapped myself in it. I did not get any colder, but by 2am I had had enough.
I got out of the bivy, packed my rucksack, and headed over to the summit cone along the summit ridge. Here at the col where Early Morning Couloir tops out is a steep fourth class step about 30 feet high, with one fixed pin. I hesitantly tried out the steep neve, scratched up the steep section with my tools and crampons on, moved out on frontpoint holds above dizzying exposure, and commited to the last few moves. I summitted at around 4 am.
The descent saw me hurrying along the gendarmes of the SE Spur, trying to get down before the snow softened up too much. I made it down to treeline by around 7am, the last 12 hours comprising still one of the most wonderful climbs I've ever done!
Alex
-
Even with prices at Barrabes being as low as they are, climbing is a luxury sport in Europe. Don't be fooled into thinking retail prices are any cheaper in most of Europe for most climbing goods than they are in the U.S. In Vienna (where I am sitting at the moment) there are only a few shops that sell anything technical. Those shops charge just as much or more for technical gear as you will find in the U.S., and Austria is an EC country, which means tariffs from France and Germany are not any different than in those countries.
It is true you will find some things somewhat cheaper here, Alpine Touring bindings for example are 25-30% less. But you can't buy a decent ice tool for less than 200$ US here in Austria either.
I am not a big fan of the US outdoor retail market's pricing or efforts to shut out competition from overseas. I do not support Black Diamond and do not buy their products. Evenso, it isnt that easy to get better prices on some merchandise.
Just some perspective, Alex
Axars or Black Profit
in The Gear Critic
Posted
Just wanted to let everyone know that Barrabes in Spain sent my Prophets to me within a week of ordering, very fast service. The tools came complete, leash, stinger pick, and head, for 168$ american. Thats a screaming deal for a brand new quality tool.
Thumbs up!!
Alex