Alex
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Posts posted by Alex
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I agree, I've lead both Icy BC and Waite For Spring in much leaner conditions than those pictured here. That ice is fat!
Alex
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Thanks Phil.
Yes, Strobach is near White Pass, Horsetail is near Chinook Pass.
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Strobach: tried to go into Strobach this past weekend, the snow was too deep to drive the roads and we were too late to do the hike. Can't tell you if there is any ice. Bring a sled or come really early.
Horsetail: running water.
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I have vol 1 and vol 2 of the Chamonix alpine guides in English..send me an email to borrow.
Alex
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.org is being held in reserve for possible future use, but nothing is planned at this time.
Alex
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Scott, it better not be, there is a ban on Cascade Legends posting here.
![[Wazzup]](graemlins/wazzup.gif)
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clikc his profile, its the icon with the guy and the question mark. His email is listed there.
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quote:Originally posted by westernbackcountryskier:so what you're saying is that there is some snow? has anyone actually been up there recently though to actually know?
Um, yes, I was actually there recently, last week. There is a foot or two, enough to ski on, not enough to dig a snow cave. Like I said.
[ 11-07-2001: Message edited by: Alex ]
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maybe a foot or two. Not enough to dig a snow cave but definitely enough to ski with.
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Barrabes kicks ass.
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This has to be the best repository of Hood photos I have ever seen!
http://www.uac.pdx.edu/photos/
Let me know when you want to go, I'm in for Yocum.
Alex
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LL Bean Guide Pants, 125$.
I got mine....
Alex
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Peshastin Saturday, we arrived there first to find it closed but parked in a nearby orchard and proceeded to climb all day. Quite a few other groups joined us in the sun!
For those who care, Peshastin is officially closed until March, as of last week sometime...
Alex
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Phil you dog!
A friend talked me out of going up there, "the coverage sounds really thin" and I went to Muir instead on Sunday. While the weather Sunday was stellar, the snow was only good above 9000. The rest of the way down was breakable crust and soft wierd stuff with more breakable. I think it rained up there Fri/Sat, and then froze Sat night...
Alex
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"My stupid question is this... What are all the differences in the ski gear? What do I need for simple approaches and backcountry skiing?What is the difference if any between cross-country, AT, Touring, Randonee, and Backcountry ski gear?"
Juneriver, your question is not a stupid one, here are the answers:
Alpine skiing: heels locked down to the ski always when skiing downhill. Skis and equipment tend to be heavier, skis have full metal edges
There are several Alpine ski equipment choices for climbers and backcountry skiiers -
standard: the stuff you see at ski areas all the time Randonee/AT (Alpine Touring): special bindings that can be "unlocked" to permit travel uphill. The boot is still locked into the binding, but the binding is not locked to the ski in the back. Hardcore AT people will also have special AT boots, not standard downhill ski boots, that make walking much easier
Telemark skiing: heels are not locked down to ski downhill. Skis are heavier with full metal edges.
There is a wide variety of equipment, depending on your goals
Cross Country skiing: heels not locked down to ski downhill, but skis are lighter, narrower, and only sport a half-metal edge, if any edge at all. Not designed for long downhill runs, they are, rather (as the name implies) designed for aerobic travel across the flats
If your goal is utilitarian (approach climbs) and you have alpine skiing experience, Randonee/AT gear is where you should look. If your goal is to learn something new because you are intensely bored with alpine skiing, Telemark may be for you, though it is not easy to learn. If your goal is to get a GREAT workout and skip the whole downhill freak scene, Cross Country is what you should check out
Alex
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Hunter typically comes in closer to Summer, April and early May are more unsettled and unpredictable. Though to get good freezing conditions you should go as early as you are able
Alex
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Sno-slushy, Stevens, Blewett all have suspicious white powder
Bets on when they close Washington Pass? Better get those few last climbs in...
Alex
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That sounds awesome! Can't wait to go try it...what would it be like in winter? I guess we'll soon find out!! Have any pictures?? Post them when you get them,
Alex
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No its never touched down to my knowledge. The snowpatch is the start of the rock ramp, which traverses up and right to a small vertical move above a terrible (R/X) landing. After the crux you get a #3 camalot, the only solid pro on the entire pitch, and then lead up lower angled ground to an ice screw belay just left of the main ice flow.
Last winter was a very strange one out at Banks, many things formed that had never formed before.
"I know the rock's bad, but it can't be as bad as some of the shit in Hyalite."
I would try out the regular bypass before you go for the "Salt and Pepper Direct". You might be very surprised at how bad this rock is...
Alex
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Lambone, you are referring to Salt and Pepper,
It didnt touch down last winter, but as Mitch said you can climb the rotten rock on the left hand side. My partner and I did this a week after the FA, the rock was terrible, bring pins, nuts and #3 camalot.
Zenith is similar in length and character, further up the road.
Alex
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The Canadian Rockies are a great place to learn, lots of moderates there to let you get into it without getting in over your head.
Even Lillooet has its reliability problems, if you are going to drive that far might as well drive the extra few hours to Yoho/Banff/Jasper. It is a 10-12 hour drive from Seattle.
That said, the Cascades and Washington desert offers some very good climbing, a guidebook is in the works to be published hopefully Fall 2002. Stay tuned.
If you absolutely must get on some ice, then maybe glacial ice would suffice? The Coe on Hood has some great serac'ing!
Alex
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Dru, you are right, knifeblade cracks can be A1, but Snow White is really not A1, this is mostly body-weight/ half-driven/ tied off type knifeblades above a terrible landing.
TimL, I am not sure, its been about 5 years. the angles and LAs wont be used at all on Snow White.
I actually like A4/copperhead/nice, when on TR!! (of course, then its not A4 anymore, is it?) I suppose if you were hard core you could take a hand drill and bat hook it up to a big #3 camalot placement, but its a nice 60 foot groundfall if you blow it.
Alex
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Snow White is not A1 nailing, it would be pretty sandbaggy to call it A2+ I think, since the tough moves are all knifeblade close to the deck. If you want to try it, it is knifeblades and bugaboos up the seam until the lip. Then it eases off, I think you get an alien.
A1 nailing? Isnt that C1?
A2+ nailing, a long time ago I would have told you the original start to (Ten Percent?), just right of Saggitarius, because it involved a few tied off LAs, but I've since been reprimanded that its a clean route and goes fine with Lowe Balls.
Stern Farmer is C3?
I think Golden Arch still has some official nailing on it?
There are quite a few spots on the Upper Town wall that you could practice. There is a nice A4 copperhead seam to the immediate left of Danas Arch that you can TR from Danas Arch if you want to learn how to X and paste heads.
when I want to go practice, I go into the big talus jumble below lower town wall and smack some pins around, or go Gardening on the Inner Wall or Lower Lump.
Alex
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wait, so letmegetthisstraight...
A surfer, a surfer, a surfer, a snowboarder, a mountain biker, a snowboarder
where is the extreme in that?
A 25-year old Hot BASE Jumper or
Steph Davis.
Steph is very pretty, but the BASE jumper has it hands..err...down...
Alex
Insomnia and my biggest gripe
in Climber's Board
Posted
Consumers speak with their wallets, not their values. Patagonia and a few other select companies are the only ones to ever have successfully married the two.
IMO Tibet will be free when the Chinese stop believing it was a historical part of China, or when the Tibetan people revolt, whichever comes first (read, never). But pressuring the Chinese won't get the U.S. anywhere. I think China has always been a question mark for the U.S. foreign and economic poilicy..you look at the market and you cannot ignore it. You look at the government and you cannot ignore it, and yet you are pretty powerless to do anything.
This is always an interesting question: support a culture in the hopes that it becomes more like your own, and "sees the light", or punish a culture in the hopes that the economic and social hurt inflicted forces action? Which is more likely to succeed? Which is more likely to succeed in your own lifetime?
Americans have a short attention span, and that goes for government and leaders of this country as well as the everyday Joe couch potato.
13 posts already and not a hint of the downward spiral into mindless spray chaos? And with people like trask and Dru already weighed in? I am shocked. Shocked.
Alex