Alex
-
Posts
4663 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Alex
-
-
"Downhaul's used to tension the luff by cranking the boom down at the gooseneck. Certainly not related to the main sheet though... "
The luff of the main? Is tensioned by the cunningham at the gooseneck, but doesnt have anything to do with the gooseneck per se. Cranking the boom down is, of course, physically impossible since the gooseneck is fixed to your mast. You can tension the boom, though with the boom vang?
But I think I understand the confusion, if you do not sail with a spinnaker or masthead rig, and thats my only experience except for cats and tris with an asym. If you call the cunningham a downhaul, thats cool, but on a masthead rig with a spinnaker pole that does end-to-end gybes, the downhaul holds the spinnaker pole steady from below, while the topping lift holds it steady from above. On dip-pole gybe boats some people call the downhaull the afterguy, for some odd reason.
Alex
[ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: Alex ]
-
Metasequoia glyptostroboides
-
ivan
original question: "girth hitch wires?". You then noted information overload. Welcome to the Internet! Everyone here is pretty much saying the same thing, as you note.
mitch comments: "Honestly, the most dangerous shit I've ever seen done on crags and in the mountains was done by engineers. Of course they were also graduates of the Mountaineers Course."
I agree, though most are not graduates of Mounties Course, rather BOEALPS people. I can tell you that I don't typically comment on peoples personal set ups in the mountains, but the few times I have tried, I was bitch-slapped down by Boeing engineers who had "done the calculations". I climb with some BOEALPS folks and highly respect their abilities, so this is not a general slam, but those few times I have encountered the very-closed minded engineering 'tude, its been Boeing.
Finally, Ivan, welcome to Portand (soon!) I trust you will find the NW an awesome place to climb!
Alex
-
-
Dru, you just found out why you never win the page-top posting wars. 25 posts to a page bub
-
"The downhaul on the boats I've sailed actually cranks the boom down, at the gooseneck, tensioning the luff. The gooseneck travels up or down in the slot that the sail feeds into. This is on smaller boats up to 15' to 18' or so. I'm not surprised that the gooseneck is immobile on larger boats."
Wow a moveable gooseneck? My apologies, yes learn something new every day. Trippy. I guess I can totally envision that on smaller boats where the loads arent so large. Seems that that would require the main to have a foot shelf though, and I am also used to a free footed main. What kind of boat? Yes sorry I am used to Hobie cats, ULDB-types (SC27, Olson 30, Farr 40s). -
YOU CANNOT POSSIBLY BE THE REAL JERRY SANCHEZ!
-
Its the Wind River Range, WY
-
Passes closed til 9AM, but PUB CLUB IS OPEN!!
See you at the O&T
-
Michael, I had that attitude the first 5 years I lived here, and missed out on a hella lot of ice climbing. There's more than enough to go around if you want it.
But Banff trips arent to be missed either!
Alex
-
I guess I would just add that in addition to what Jason says, WA ice is typically steep, thin, and inconsistent. It can also be quite brittle/fragile, due to our mild climate. Ice in Wa is typically formed by snowmelt over a cliff, but we get alot more snow, and a lot milder temps, making the climbs much more susceptible to rain/warm temps, and burial by snowfall.
So in general I would characterize the ice climbing in this state as generally more technical and more serious, compared to a similar grade in the Canadian Rockies. WI4 in Banff are generally safer and less technical than typical WI4 routes in Washington. WI5 routes in Banff usually form with much more ice, while remaining sustained; WI5 in WA is usually more dependent on conditions to climb safely. But there are many exceptions. In a good year, the WI4, 5 and 6 routes out at Banks Lake and in Tumwater can rival the size and quality of any climb in the Rockies. The concentration of ice at Strobach in a good year rivals any of the best areas in North America (but the approach doesnt).
Ice in Washington tends to be steep and narrow, not many of these wide benign flows like the Junkyards, Balfour Wall, Bow Falls, Weeping Wall, or Cascade Pass in the ADKs or Lake Whilloughby in VT.
I dont think WA will ever become a destination for ice climbers like Banff or Lillooet, but should you ever find yourself out here mid-winter, there sure is plenty of ice to climb!
Alex
-
whether ~ if
wether == "a castrated ram"
weather = that whole atmospheric thing
-
July 1999, 150% snowpack year
-
I like the local guides name: Merlin Lipshitz
The wizard of spray!!!
-
I've found Horsetail in particular to be one of those things that seldom freezes, for some reason. I've been there 3 times now and every time it was running water.
-
partner and I went in in 1999 to climb N Butress of Fury, among other things. Logistics were: hump huge ungainly pack with full rack and rock shoes in many miles. Get this close
wimp out, turn around, go home.
-
Ive used Barrabes twice now with great success. When I ordered a set of Black Prophets, they were literally on my doorstep 2 days after ordering...from Spain!
-
IceIceBaby, I am guessing you mean more for winter/spring climbs than summer climbs.
Depending on the route, but I typically carry something like the following
up to 5 ice screws - usually 10cm, 13cm, and some TI 17cm screws. I will carry alot more screws on a known snow/ice climbArcaeopteryx ice hookv-threader and v-thread material. This doubles as prussik cords in a pinchscreamers (I have 3) and slings/drawscams: from yellow alien to *2 camamlot, usually carry 2-3, so maybe yellow alien, #1 camalot, #2 camalotnuts: half set of the smaller sizes. For really large placements you can jam a knot.Pins: Ive found Bugaboos and KBs through LA to baby angle to be most effective sizes. Usually carry 4-5 pins.maybe a picketprobably a deadman
Alex
-
"bowline knot is commonly used by sailors when rigging sails"
yes
"and attaching downhaul to main sheet"
The downhaul is used to hold the spinnaker pole in place while the main sheet controls the boom? These things are completely unrelated, so I'm not sure what you are trying to say here.
-
that price is a steal
-
Seeing the post about the guy in OR who summitted Hood in track shoes (not an uncommon practice I am sure) churned up some memories about improvised "climbing gear" I have seen over the years:
------------
So here's my bizarre sighting: Mt Shasta 1994, average joe summit-bound with PULASKI rather than ice axe up Avalanche Gulch route. Guess he took the "axe" thing literally!
-
"Over the years, Grover Krantz would sometimes climb into his car at night and go for long, lonely rides into the woods of the Pacific Northwest. Creeping along the back roads at 25 mph with a rifle and spotlight at his side, he desperately hoped his elusive quarry, a Sasquatch, would show itself. "
or a deer, sounds like he was jacklighting!
-
when I and umpteen bazillion other parties went to Chair Sat, the snow was consistent crust/firm in the am all the way to vale below the routes, where the snow abruptly turned to lighter deeper powder. This must be the elevation at which it didnt rain recently, and it sure made a big difference.
If you had trouble going up the firm snow, you might want to try out some different skins, or take your skis off completely and hike it. There was no need for floatation that weekend. Or wait til later in the day when it softens up.
I saw only one non-climbing skiier get up high enough for the powder the entire day, so I would suggest:
1) get as high above source lake as possible. The bowl under the Tooth, the N facing slopes below Chair NF, or the bowl below E Face chair all seemed like good ski conditions to me. You can get to Snow Lake Divide many different ways, some of them a little more cicuitous but lower angle than others
2) with the recent precip av danger likely to be extreme now
[ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Alex ]
-
Robert, I suppose I could continue to rationalize lots of different things, but in my heart I am thinking "now I have to go back and do Second, dammit!", so I guess I agree with you
Oh well, something to look forward to I guess.
Muir on Saturday
in Spray
Posted
jon, Alex sold his avatar a few weeks back, and now posts as W, who sold his avatar to Alex and now only posts as To The Top, who sold his avatar to W and is busy trying out the sleeping bag he bought from Alex, who is now using the sleeping bag he bought from W.