DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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SS. you make a good point. The routes in 50 Classics are not always the most difficult or most aesthetic, some are of a more historical significance. For example, is the WR the best route on Forbidden? Many would argue NW Arete is a much better route, however, WR has more history. I think as a young and inexperienced climber I had unrealistic expectations for LR.
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Oleg, I was underwhelmed by the route also. We dodged large falling rocks from the toe (5th class climbing on an un-mortared pile of bricks) to Thumb Rock. I wonder, however, if PR was a 50 Classic Climb if there would be more accidents on that route.
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We have that route on our list. I've reached out to some the folks involved to get beta and photos.
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Very sad to see another young person passing.
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NR Stuart is a bit of a pickle. One can go early season so you can approach from the north and descend the Sherpa Glacier (shorter) but contend with verglass, wet rock, and snow or go late season and approach and descend from the south (longer and more tedious) but enjoy dry rock and a lighter pack (no crampons or axe). Either way a full value adventure.
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Where are you located?
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Hello,
I'm looking for a partner for a mellow outing on Saturday or Sunday. I'm out of shape, so something with an easy approach and low 5th class would fit the bill. Some ideas: The Tooth, WR Chair, Ingall's Peak or something similar. Newbies welcome. I can supply the rope, rack, and I can drive.
If interested please email: daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com
Thanks,
Dan
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Matt Perkins, Alasdair Turner, and Jason Killgore attempted something on Sperry in March 2002 as I recall. Not sure how far they got though.
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Liberty Ridge is tough for out of town climbers. The weather is a crap shoot until after July 4th and by then the route is on its way to being out of shape.
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By my reading there will be substantially fewer spots for the DC and Emmons routes this year.
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Cool, thanks.
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Has anybody been up to the NR of Mount Baker recently? I'm wondering how the glacier is holding up. Thanks.
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15 hours ago, Rad said:
Is that when you left your neutrino there?
Very funny. Nolse emailed and asked for beta before he went up the Girth Pillar. I told him I was not a good person to ask.
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I fell off of the Girth Pillar. That was really real and really sucky.
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Just saw a report that that the Right Gully on NF Hood goes, but is on its way out.
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I doubt much seasonal ice is left. Reid Glacier Headwall on Hood, Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier, NR, Coleman Glacier HW on Baker, North Face, Price Glacier on Shuksan, Ice Cliff Glacier on Stuart are the kind of climbs that would be in shape.
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1 hour ago, genepires said:
you forgot to mention the approach requirement of less than 10 minutes. downhill or maybe flat, both ways.
sounds like a good trip to me.
Great Northern Slab and Mountaineer's Dome, here I come! I will enchain the crap out of those crags.
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2 hours ago, curtveld said:
I had met Carlos through his ill-fated climbing gym. Good climber and quite the character.
Yikes, I had completely forgotten that Forbidden story.
Alex K and I built that gym for him. I even drafted the plans. I kept telling him he needed to get a gym designer and he always responded "I know exactly what I want: three vertical walls, three slabs, and three overhangs."
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I am a super strong 5.4 climber, absolutely crush that grade. Hoping to work back up to 5.5 this summer. I also refuse to climb anything that cannot be protected with a set of nuts and some big hexes and can be climbed in approach shoes.
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16 hours ago, curtveld said:
No... not that Carlos... I don't think?
No, Carlos Hatfield. Certainly Gene remembers him from Bellingham.
Yeah, no epics for us but on the approach we ran into Brendan Cusak who was working as a ranger and would later guide at AAI. He was leading two climbers down who were from NY. They had attempted the WR but while down climbing the couloir one slipped and went down head first pachinkoing off the couloir walls and into the bergschrund. Fortunately he was wearing a Joe Brown helmet, which sustained a big dent but saved his life. To add insult to injury they managed to fall into a river on the way out and were completely wet and shivering when we ran across them. The helmet in question has been on display in the Marblemount ranger station ever since.
Carlos Buhler and I both went Huxley College and there was a photo of him in the graduate school office on top of Everest holding a flag with the school name. I wound up working with a lady who was a prof there and remembered Carlos well from class.
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BTW Curt, do you remember climbing WR Forbidden with me and Carlos, like almost 30 years ago?
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I used to resole my rock shoes four times a year. Now I resole them once every four years. I'm definitely not having the most fun.
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The best cobbler is the one having the most fun. (Sorry, it had to be said.)
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I went to back to using double 9/16" nylon slings for belay anchors with the mindset that that they do not lose as much strength as dyeenma when knotted and can be replaced frequently because they are pretty inexpensive. These pull tests validate that thinking.
Easton Glacier advice
in North Cascades
Posted
Easton Glacier is as straight forward as it gets. I don't remember any tricky spots or route finding problems, however, there are some large crevasses. We did it the first week in May on skis and even in early season there were some large crevasses open, which were a bit creepy to ski around. Three days would be very casual, we did it C2C in an easy day.