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Matt

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Posts posted by Matt

  1. Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said:

    I dreamed I was in a philosophy class at a university and had to learn to ski... perhaps snoboy can explain the corilation between skiing and philosophy wink.gif

     

    Free your heels and your mind will follow. cantfocus.gif ski ergo sum

  2. Dr. Jay and I climbed the North Ridge of Stuart this week. Fantastic climb! I want to go back and do it again!

     

    Highlights include:

    Steep snow and mixed 4th class going up the bypass off the Stuart glacier

    5.fun climbing up the ridge!

    sleeping high in the mountains on a perfect ledge! (luckily I had a bug net for my head as the morning mosquitos were hungry!)

    Waking up and getting on the Gendarme! Killer exposure on a very friendly offwidth!

    small pack and the perfect amount of foot and gear

    bluebird skies the whole way!

    Stashed beer in the river near the car so we had cold ones waiting for us when we got back!

     

    Footwear beta: I wore trail runners for the approach and put crampons on for the glacier and had comfy rock shoes for the route. Definitely would not have felt comfortable without the crampons as both of us slipped and self arrested on the Stuart Glacier. I'm sure the effortlessly cool Mattp might get by without crampons, but not me. Some pretty steep slippery snow in someplaces, the ice axe and crampons were well used. Running shoes worked well most of the time, though coming down the Cascadian Couloir I wished I had boots with more support. Jay had these cool light weight garmond approach boots that were above the ankle and had sticky rubber so he could both kick steps in snow and climb all of the 5.fun pitches, though he did get out his real rock shoes for the Gendarme pitches.

     

    Gear beta: don't need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. There is still a #4 fixed in the middle of the 5.9 offwidth. We had a 3.5 and used it all over the climb, but not on the "crux" pitch. We did use it on the belay above the offwidth. We had a heavy rack, but it was nice as it facilitated faster simul-climbing along the ridge.

     

    As for bivies, yes, it looked like there were a few places on the summit where one could hunker down. We slept on the bivy ledge on the 9th, which was very nice, maybe the best bivy ledge on the route. Sleeping on this ledge was one of the bonuses of the climb! I can't imagine doing this route on a weekend and competing for space with other parties. We were lucky enough to have the entire route to ourselves. Plenty of snow all over the climb. Don't carry too much water! Great time to climb it!

     

    It seems like the N. Ridge is the flavor of the month. I give it thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

  3. I have Tuesday through Friday off next week (July 1 - 4) and would love to climb something big and cool. Rainier is cool. Stuart is cool. Dragontail is cool. You get the picture?

     

    I've had enough epics to call myself experienced (both rock and ice). I have gear, car, EMT-B skills in case you epic, blah blah.

     

    PM me and let's climb.

     

    bigdrink.gif

  4. AlpineK--

     

    I vote for cutting down trees. Index needs to be cut back and cleaned out. Let me know if I can help. Also, I'd suggest connecting w/ Andy Fitz and the Access Fund before hand just to make sure some trimming won't jepordize our access.

     

    I'm a tree hugger, but we're not talking about a grove of old growth cedars. Cut it down! thumbs_up.gif

  5. Some classic Bush quotes:

    I don't bring God into my life to -- to, you know, kind of be a political person.

    -- interview with Tom Brokaw aboard Air Force One, April 24, 2003

     

     

    We're fighting an enemy ... that will wear civilian uniforms....

    -- Washington, DC, March 25, 2003

     

     

    ...If we use military force, in the post-Saddam Iraq the UN will definitely need to have a role. And that way it can begin to get its legs, legs of responsibility back.

    -- Lajes, Azores, March 16, 2003

     

     

    We appreciate our own support for ensuring that the just demands of the world are enforced.

    -- Washington, DC, March 13, 2003

     

     

    I know there's some concern about overstating of numbers, you know, invest in my company because the sky's the limit. We may not be cash flowing much, but the sky's the limit. Well, when you pay dividends, that sky's the limit business doesn't hunt.

    -- Kennesaw, GA, February 20, 2003

     

     

    ...[A]s we insist that Congress be wise with your money, we're going to make sure we spend enough to win this war. And by spending enough to win a war, we may not have a war at all.

    -- Kennesaw, Georgia, February 20, 2003

     

     

    So today I ask you to challenge your listeners ... to start a ministry, which will find the children of those who are incarcinated and love them.

    -- Addressing the National Religious Broadcasters' Convention, Opryland Hotel, Nashville, TN, February 10, 2003. The quote was cleaned up before the speech was posted on the White House web site.

     

     

    I believe we can achieve peace at home....

    -- Washington, DC, January 30, 2003

     

     

    Should any Iraqi officer or soldier receive an order from Saddam Hussein or his sons or any of the killers who occupy the high levels of their government, my advice is don't follow that order. If you choose to do so, when Iraq is liberated, you will be treated, tried and persecuted as a war criminal.

    -- St. Louis, MO, January 22, 2003

     

     

    I'm the person who gets to decide, not you.

    -- reacting to a reporter's statement in the lead-in to his question that "we're headed to war in Iraq," Crawford, TX, December 31, 2002

     

     

    I had a cordial meeting at that meeting last night. We greeted each other, cordially.

    -- Prague, Czech Republic, November 21, 2002

     

     

    One of the problems we have is that enough people can't find work in America.

    -- Bentonville, AR, November 4, 2002

     

     

    The solid truth of the matter is, when you find -- if you want to help heal the hurt -- if you want to hurt people and help people in pain, the best way to do so is to call upon the great strength of the country, which is the compassion of our fellow Americans.

    -- Bentonville, AR, November 4, 2002

    Discuss.

  6. So to everyone else, how fun is it to free solo?

    I would think the weight of your rope to rappel would suck to have on, or do you downclimb the whole thing? I am thinking that if I ever did free solo something it would be das toof or sabre

     

    Scott--

     

    Just solo up and down, no need to bring a rope, however, real rock shoes make it a little more secure. I remember there was a discussion a while back and I think Dan Smith or ChucK had done it car to car in under 2 hours. It becomes an afterwork trail run with a boulder problem in the middle. It is so nice to get up there without the weight of gear dragging you down. It's much easier to pass people when you are soloing-- go for it!

     

     

    bigdrink.gif

  7. Shin Ramyun Korean Ramen "Hot and Spicy"

    Where can I pick this up?

     

    I usually pick some up at the Great Wall Mall in Kent (spitting distance from Ikea). Uwajimaiya also carries it. I've also been turned onto noodles called "Japagetti", a kind of Korean/Japanese spagetti. This is not a troll, these noodles really do exist.

    thumbs_up.gif

  8. I have most of next week off and would like to climb something Tuesday and Wednesday (5/6-5/7), maybe leave Seattle area Monday night, return home Thursday morning.

     

    I have car, gear and motivation. Cragging in Leavenworth or a glacier slog is what I have in mind, but I'm open to anything. I used to "not suck" at climbing and now I'm trying to regain my former level of not sucking. Mid week climbing rocks. A few weeks ago I climbed Outerspace and my partner and I were the only ones on the SCW. Yes, we might miss the cc.com picnic, but wouldn't you rather climb?

     

    Send me a PM.

    bigdrink.gif

  9. I've only done the climb once, but on that occasion (in mid July), the glacier crossing was perfectly easy and although there was a little extra rubble climbing below Thumb Rock, perhaps, the snow was firm, there was good ice around the Black Pyramid, and the climb was probably overall easier than when Bug climbed it earlier in the season.

     

    Mattp-- I think I remember you telling me you soloed Liberty Ridge. Are you telling me the only time you climbed Liberty Ridge was the time you soloed it? You down climbed it too, right? bigdrink.gif So effortlessly cool...

  10. Please tell me about your portaledge experiences:

     

    1. What do you have?

    2. What do you like?

    3. Have you ever set up the fly? Is it worth it to buy one?

    4. What problems have you had?

    5. Sex on the ledge?

    6. Can you think of any good design to paint on the bottom of the ledge?

    7. How many of you have a ledge sitting in a corner of your garage that you never use?

    8. What routes in Washington can you use a ledge on? Squamish?

    9. Anything else?

    10. Anyone want to go aid climbing in Yosemite in September?

     

     

  11. 8. Who explained that the Bush Administration waited until September to push publicly for war with Iraq because, “from a marketing point of view, you don’t introduce new products in August”?

    a) Attorney General John Ashcroft

    b) Chief of staff Andrew Card

    c) Press secretary Ari Fleisher

    d) National security advisor Condoleezza Rice

     

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