Noveric

PM sent

Trip: Mt. Rainier - Ingraham Direct - Ingraham Direct Trip Date: 03/18/2019 Trip Report: Start: 0200 Muir: 0600 Muir Departure: 0715 Top of Cadaver Gap: 0900 Bergschrund crossing: 1100 Summit: 1415 Muir: 1730 Paradise: 1930 Takobed in the winter – an objective since first touching foot on the summit three years ago. Last year, attempts were called off due to lack of ski ability; however, after having my first season of skiing, plus this winter season, confidence levels were enough to give this a shot. Departing from Yakima, WA, you can see glimpses of the Eastern routes and even the summit from some houses in town, so the stoke was extra high – naturally. Car camping at Paradise, we awoke around 0030, opting to have an extra hour for travel above Muir – will come handy later on. Leaving the cars by 0200, under a near full moon travel was smooth until we hit Pan Face/ Point. Immediately equipping ski crampons was necessary for the face – then, we opted to boot the three-small terraces up to the Point. Guided by moonlight we cruised up the Muir Snowfield seeking an uphill path on the breakable & slippery crust. Peeking into the public hut, we were the only folks at all of Muir it seemed at 0600, although someone did leave a bag of jerky – cheers. Getting a full hour break in was the plan, enough time for snackage, drinkage and rope time. My friend chose to ditch his skis at Muir, based on a broken/ finagled binding and less time on skis this season thus I decided to carry my skis up to the summit for easier rope/ glacier travel. Marginal-minimal rock activity and decent snow conditions lead us up to the top of Cadaver Gap as we sought a more alternative route. The top inch of crust, shin-deep powder and layer adjustments landed us at the top around 0900 still plenty of time to plug away to. Stepping onto Ingraham Flats, there was immediately a huge bergschrund to our right with covered shooting cracks fracturing outward. To the far looker’s right somewhat left of The Icebox, there was a boot-pack & skin-track coming from Cathedral Gap. Looking over to the cleaver, their path continued however we chose to follow a boot-pack hugging Gibraltar Rock – mistake. Navigating minor three-foot splitters, my friend stepped onto a solid-looking bridge and fell in about knee height before crawling forward. Walking a few feet further left, the bridge was much firmer. Just one of three sketchier crossings. Soon after we took our first proper break since Muir, scoping out the rest of the Ingraham. A few hundred feet higher the path mounted a bergschrund with no other immediate option around. Initially, we thought we could borrow steps about 10m left of the primary step, but hollow snow proved too sketchy. Making a deadman picket (in case he fell off and into the schrund), I belayed my friend as he made a high left step and pulled himself up by plunging his axe and kneeing into the snow. Note: the schrund appeared to be full at least at this point of entry but remained untrustworthy. After mounting the bergschrund, travel became much easier, crevasse crossing became more benign, a perfect time to put the head down and chug away at the elevation. Snow conditions remained consistent as earlier and wind conditions were quite dismal compared to the 20mph forecast. Nothing to report up to the summit. Reaching the crater rim around 1355, our initial route did not seem feasible as a huge moat had formed but was simply surpassed traveling 30m to climber’s left. Tagging the windy and cold summit, we immediately began descending but hastily got off trail and found ourselves exposed above massive gapers to skier’s left of Lil’ T so throwing crampons back on we ascended 30m or so and were back on track. Skiing conditions were mainly survival skiing: firm snow mixed with ice and wind runnels left edges and whippet useless. More precise turning was essential, especially between 13k’ and 12k’ where it changed to 3-inch crust on 6-inches of powder. Navigating down the bergschrund was quite easy, we chucked gear down and slid/hopped down off the overhanging portion. Roping up again, descended few hundred feet to the flats, where I threw skis back on and my friend ran back to Muir. Snow conditions from here until Paradise were awful – refrozen sloppy snow now crustier than the crab itself. Once at Muir we repacked out bags, stuffed face with all the food left in our bags and began the slog down being pushed by massive winds. Gear Notes: Crevasse Kit, Skis, Ski Crampons, Whippet Approach Notes: Crusty Crab

After seeing the sign on the Easton trailhead, I can confirm my friend nor I saw a sign regarding no further travel but good to keep in mind in the future.

Trip: North Cascades - Easton Glacier Trip Date: 03/05/2019 Trip Report: Monday March 4th, buddy and departed for Easton Glacier of Kulshan. Starting from the sno-park trailhead at 0230 March 5th, roughly 3-4 miles from summertime trailhead, the trail had been groomed earlier that day. We cruised up the groomed path until roughly 6500’ where transitioned onto heavily tracked out trail by snowmobilers, which had rose well into the glacier. The Easton had appeared to be filled in and solid as Cascade concrete allows, no shoot cracks were prevalent even around moats where snowmobiles had appeared to ride through. Rising to about 7500’-8000’, strong Northwestern winds pushed in a fat system, dropping visibility to below 20’. After a 20min break around these elevations, we decided to pull the cord and bail as conditions only worsened and could see the rest of the system moving in from around Washington/ Cascade Pass region. The ski down was great here and there, on the snowmobile tracks it was rather poor. Tons of variable snow conditions surely a result from many freeze thaw cycles and heavy traffic. Cruised on groomed trail all the way down to the car with the occasional section of skating, I would say no more than 400m at a time. Overall, great conditions, smooth sailing on the ascent as well as descent, glacier roulette was very forgiving this trip, certainly will be in prime conditions after the current cycle moving through if AVI does not jump to high. 8.5 hours; 23.45 miles; 6300' ascent; 6400 descent Gear Notes: Ice Axe, Crampon, Ski Crampons Approach Notes: Smooth and fast, bring the music

Sure did! Sometimes you just gotta make your own trail if it doesn't workout eh

Trip: Alpine Lakes - NBC - Colchuck Peak Trip Date: 01/28/2019 Trip Report: Returned to Colchuck region for seconds on the NBC today. Awesome skinning to trailhead, up to lake. Bit slick in places on lower trail but better than breaking trail. Encountered group who tackled Triple Couloir, do not recall if they were successful but kudos for attempt if not. Cruised up to lake in around 3.2 hours from gate, smooth moving. Lake crossing was solid this time, was just a wimp about it the first time. Route: Encountered similar problems from my 12.1.19 attempt - loose snow that cannot hold a tool for anything. So bad, in fact plunging anything into snow will still be removed on a moderate-strong pull - does not make up for bomber steps IMO. Realized this sooner this time and bailed within first 20m of the route from top of the small bowl (looker's right). Ski down in the bowl was good although cornices on right to skiers' right and slight Wet Loose debris down low warranted me to push wide right. IMO - worth it to ski out, can do it in around 3 transitions if you time it correctly. Last, the road it is super fast, this was the only time when I opted to wear my helmet and often pizza-ing as chunky snow surrounding ice-rink middle of the road makes for bad falls. All in all, awesome day to be out but discontent with another failed summit. Update: Word from friend who attempted Chair Peak recently if not today, experienced similar conditions of loose snow not complimentary to tools. Gear Notes: Two tools, crampons Approach Notes: Fast and easy - 70min to trailhead

@eberman if you haven't already definitely check out the new post in N. Cascades regarding this - I bet this member will have sufficient photos

Totally! We initially parked about 4 miles down trail where there was another car and a right turn away from the main road. But the next morning, we quickly realized it might be possible after walking for 5min. - definitely recommend if I was able to get a low-clearance 2011 WRX over the berm!

Trip: Kulshan - Coleman-Deming Trip Date: 01/15/2019 Trip Report: I want to give thanks and raise my hands to the Lummi Nation for this safe, successful and amazing trip into their territory and for the company of Kulshan. Drove fairly high up near the trail head with a Subaru WRX, hardly within a 10 min. walk in fact. Super awesome, just need to navigate a thick berm roughly 3 miles down from trailhead. This short distance probably saved us an hour, so starting by 0345 looked super good. Skinned maybe 15 minutes on road before reaching trailhead, transitioned into walk mode on some thin forest coverage. Trail was 95% clear until it wasn’t. Walked for around 40min – one hour before switching into touring. Gained the bottom of Heliotrope Ridge. I was able skin directly up in Magic Carpets, sadly my buddy was forced to carry with his set of mole-hairs. Upon gaining a lower terrace of the ridge, we encountered two gentleman who were super stoked on their coming attempt on Cosley-Houston route on Colfax. After stoking each-others’ fire, we parted. Shortly after we threw on ski crampons, which turned useless as I fell about 5m about hitting their tent. Sorry guys, it hurt my pride than anything. So thus, started the stair-master climb for about 1,000’ up to around 6,8000’ where we returned to the sweet skinning life. Gliding out towards the far skiers’ right of the ridge, after examining the route we pressed on maintaining a high traverse along the flanks of Coleman-Deming. Moving towards the center of the football field, encountered possible wind deposited snow, was harmless but still there. From there navigated through football field, opting for a middle-ish route, towards gaining a small hump parallel to a fatty which was slowly filled in. Containing only one real bridge crossing, it appeared to be filled in more to the right (skiers’ left) and surely with quick movement – or luck – it held, providing no gut-wrenching moments for either of us. Moving forward, the glacier turned more into terraces featuring zigzagging crevasses, although small, daunting and thinner than expected. The decision prior to the climb was to not bring crevasse kits in expectation of a larger snowpack, it will be there after this storm cycle this week but not thick enough for my taste. Thus, below the serac directly skiers’ left, we turned around. Switching back to ski mode, careful navigation down was required. Once reaching 500’ lower, we encountered the two men from around 5am – they were not so stoked this time as they were death marching along our path in boots. Anyway, continued back our ascent path, but opting for gaining the top of Heliotrope for a small photoshoot. Enjoying the clear skies and beautiful company of Kulshan, we had not failed at the end of the day. The ski down, for me, was alright. Not the best with weight on my back, it looked quite more enjoyable for my buddy though. Seems like the route would be much better all-around after a good cycle. Followed ascent path down, was able to ski a solid distance into the forest before carrying skis for maybe 20-30 min. Upon reaching the trailhead, the forest service was delightfully groomed. Back to car around 12, Bellingham 1330. Drove out to Bellingham for a fat burrito lunch and beer – highly recommend, their Mexican food options were superb. Photos courtesy of my awesome homie, Billy K., he's da man Gear Notes: Ski crampons, whippet, crampons, ice axe Approach Notes: Forest walk was alright, just bring some music.

Trip: Alpine Lakes Wilderness - North Buttress Couloir Trip Date: 01/12/2019 Trip Report: Began ascent around 0615, cruised up the road following tracks to trailhead for Cashmere mountain. From there broke trail all the way to turn around point. Navigation through the forest was quite poor, even though done this portion plenty of times, still got lost at certain portions. Took about 5 hours to reach Colchuck Lake, was humbled by process of breaking trail and poor skinning skills. Opted to not cross on the lake just wasn’t vibing with it. Sat around for around 40 min. warming hand and waiting for visibility to open up. Pushed out towards far side of Colchuck Lake where weather was much better even just 100’ higher. Hugged skiers’ left on boulder field proved worth it, wish I would have ascended even more on this side rather the Colchuck Glacier moraine, although it did have a handful of cornices which seemed solid and inactive. Transitioned into climb mode near entrance of couloir. Snow was not compactible at all, ice tools were more shovels making room for better steps. Had crampons on with intention of reaching higher and avoiding a difficult spot to slip them on but were not necessary. Overall snow seemed good until I transitioned from one aspect to another, where, the snow seemed to be even more bottomless and inconsolable. It was this point where I opted turn around – just did not have margin for my own solo attempt. The ski descent from this portion (see below) got to my nerves a bit. Due to the inconsolable snow, arresting was not an option. Your tool would simply slice right through, yet your skis would still float relatively well on the surface. Between this, the steeper grade and the looming cliff below, it was survival skiing until I reached my transition point. Dropped into the skiers left of the moraine and threw down my line. Opted to follow standard trail out so to avoid the lake. The descent through the forest was much better, skating out on skins proved much timelier with even portions of skiable slopes. The road out as also super, a little frozen at places, bit hard to turn and crashed but oh well. Upon arrival at the car, totaled 13:23 hrs. 16.6 miles & 6000’ gain with high point of 7000’. Gear Notes: Tools, crampons, self-belay setup, two screws, 30m 6.1mm rope, picket, used only tools for pushing down snow Approach Notes: Tunes highly recommended IMG_0434.HEIC Bailing on Colchuck NBC.mov