willithewanderer

appreciate beta - thank you!

trip dates actually 22 - 24. Spent 1 night at bivy notch and 1 on descent on west ridge side after 2nd rappel with night fall and cooler temps coming in...most uncomfortable bivy ever, but still epic.

Kautz route still a go as of July 29. Approach long with recommended Comet Falls trail start. No ice screws used even though rangers recommend having 6 on hand... Suncups are great for footing in steep part, and then become a pain up higher while trying to travel. Crevasses continue to open up requiring more side to side travel. Ice tool(s) helpful. Carried up and over to D.C. route also as recommended by Rangers. D.C. route long as it connects with Emmons route currently.

North Ridge climb July 21-24 a success. Longer climb day then anticipated, should have done more running belays...

Was able to successfully climb Adams Glacier route July 9 - was thankful for identifiable boot path up. Probably most intense glacier climb for me. I too wondered about the steepness, my climb partner said 45 degrees but felt like more at times to me, was very committing in my opinion - was thankful for my tools and relied on them heavily. This was the first "real" steep climb I have attempted, felt like the real deal.