plurpimpin

very experienced backpacker but what about climbing experience?

I don't know if a TAY report from a month ago about the South Side is particularly helpful for North Side conditions... also interested in what the Adams Glacier looks like

If I remember correctly last word on Leuthold was that the hourglass has completely melted out. You're a few months late for that one. We got alittle snow last weekend but not enough to make any kind of difference on that route.

Never mind. New blog post from the climbing rangers answered this one http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2017/07/hazardous-upper-mountain-ski-conditions.html?m=1

Anybody been up Emmons lately on Rainier? We're heading up there this weekend and we're debating whether or not it's worth lugging the skis. I talked to the rangers today and they said "it's variable, suncups in spots and sugar snow in others". I was wondering if anyone might have alittle more insight?

Gave the finger a shot last weekend. The finger itself was in great shape and we had killer corn skiing around 9:30am. We called it quits at 12k feet but another group pressed on. We crossed paths with them again on the way down and they said there was a huge impassable crevasse around 12.5k feet when trying to get onto the upper Nisqually.

I was wondering if anyone has any beta on the fuhrer finger right now? I know it's late in the season for it, but it's also a fat snow year so it's hard to say. Anybody been in the area? Does the line still go? I tried calling the climbing rangers but there weren't any rangers there and the guy that I talked to was kinda useless. All he said was they haven't issued any permits for it lately but lots of people have been calling and asking.

everyone stuck in the traffic jam will hate you if you set up a running belay up the pearly gates. Likewise for rappelling. I'm a firm believer that if you're not comfortable enough on steep snow to do either part of the southside climb (up or down) you should go do something easier like saint helens or south side of adams. The south side of hood really isn't that bad though, we watched a group swinging two tools each get passed by a black lab in the gates a few weeks ago.

Would love to hear what the conditions are like after your climb. Been itching to ski that thing all year.

That makes sense! I had a feeling it was something like that. We definitely did a high rightward traverse on leuthold which would explain us bypassing it too. Thanks for the pic, that makes it very clear.

I know this is a dumb question but I can't figure it out for the life of me, What exactly is Queens Chair on Hood? I've climbed Leuthold before and understand the approximate location of it but is it a specific feature? Or just a term for a general area? I've scoured trip reports, maps, and photos but still can't figure it out for myself so it's time to publicly ask the dumb question. A pic would be appreciated if possible!

You also need permits for the Obsidian limited entry area if you approach from the west. They sell out quickly so plan ahead if you want to come in that way. No special permits needed for Pole Creek, just fill out a wilderness permit in the parking lot.

It took us about 9 hours from lot to summit but that included an hour of my partner playing tiddlywinks with gear on the Reid after a wardrobe/crampon malfunction. The wind also slowed us down alot on the summit ridge once out of the couloir. I think 7 hours would be a very reasonible time for the climb if you keep moving and have decent conditions.

Wow, stout work guys! That's awesome!

We went up Leuthold Sunday, the route was in great shape. The bergshrund was small and easy to get around. We postholed up to thigh deep on the glacier but things firmed up some when we got into the couloir. Postholing up to calf deep here and there in the chute below the hourglass but you could find firm snow for the most part. The wind picked up when we got up above the hourglass and was pretty brutal once we got up on the summit ridge. I would estimate it was in the ballpark of 50mph so we ran up the ridge and then headed down old chute as quickly as we could. We each had a single axe and at no point did I see any need for a second tool. We felt totally comfortable the whole way up. Icefall wasn't too bad, there was lots of small stuff coming down - marble to golf ball sized with an occasional baseball. In all a really fun route and I'd like to go do it again.

Awesome guys, thanks for the beta. Won't worry about bringing a 2nd tool, you guys confirmed my suspicions. I was only wondering from the abundance of 2nd tools I've seen in trip reports. I feel like alot of people break out tech tools way more than necessary... like the guy I saw a few weeks ago heading up the pearly gates swinging a pair of tools that then got passed by a dog. Hopefully snow on the Reid won't be too much of a hassle since we'll try to keep our skis on until the base of the couloir.

Looking at climbing Leuthold Couloir on Hood this weekend and was wondering if anyone has been up that way lately? Any beta on the conditions? Saw that a guy on Turns all Year tried Reid Headwall back on Tuesday but got turned around because of post holing in waist deep snow. Hoping that will have consolidated by this weekend but means plenty of snow in the couloir. Mostly debating whether or not to bother with a 2nd tool. Any advise? First time up this route.

Awesome! Thank you for the reply! The only recentish beta I've been able to find was someone on summitpost that said it was impassable due to crevasses in July... I was alittle skeptical of that so it's good to hear from someone else. We're definitely gonna head up and give it a shot this weekend. Worst case if it's too open we'll skirt around the glacier up to the saddle but I think we'll be able to find a way. From what I've seen in pics it looks like the toe of the glacier gets pretty nasty late season but the ridge that the climbing route follows stays pretty decent (at least in some videos I found from last september which was a lower snow year). I figure getting onto the glacier might be the crux of the whole climb.

Anybody been up there lately? Heading up this weekend, any recent beta would be appreciated. Mostly curious how open the glacier is.

Anybody been up or around the Hayden Glacier lately? Looking to take some friends out to practice some crevasse rescue and glacier travel next weekend. Also gonna try to tag the summit. Any recent Beta?

Anybody been up Jeff lately? I am planning to try the South Ridge route sometime in the next week or two and was looking for some recent beta. Most of the info from this season has been from July and Early August so I was hoping for some more up to date info. The inevitable how's the traverse look? Is there much snow left up high? Any other useful info would be greatly appreciated.