triyoda

If you are looking to do Jefferson before this, I am looking for a partner June 29/30.

Wow, spectacular

Looking to do Milk Creek, but would consider other routes.

Trip: Mt McLoughlin - Normal (ski) Date: 5/28/2017 Trip Report: Still lots of snow. Start early, this gets lots of sun. Ideally I think you want to be skiing down by 10:00 am. I bailed at 8000 feet at about 10:15 am. I got a late start (see approach notes). You probably need GPS to follow the trail (first 2-3 miles), still a lot of snow. I followed a very faint boot track from 2-3 people ahead of me, but was only able to do so based on them being very fresh (like 1 hour). There is no obvious bootpack at this point. There was still snow on the forest road to the summer trailhead. I got my subaru stuck at 5:15 am and did not get pulled out until 6:45 am. Had to walk an extra 2 miles to the trail head, and did not start at the summer trail head until about 7:55 am, which was too late to summit based on how much sun the route gets. I would expect the road to be fully passable by this weekend or else you can take the back way (NF 3633) as there were cars at the trailhead and this is what they told me. Approach Notes: There was still snow on the forest road to the summer trailhead. I got my subaru stuck at 5:15 am and did not get pulled out until 6:45 am. Had to walk an extra 2 miles to the trail head, and did not start at the summer trail head until about 7:55 am, which was too late to summit based on how much sun the route gets. I would expect the road to be fully passable by this weekend or else you can take the back way (NF 3633) as there were cars at the trailhead and this is what they told me.

We went up on 7/5/16 and found the route impassable. We went up the middle of the first ice cliff as you describe it and then had the snow bridge across across the crevasse you describe. Then hit a very large open crevasse at around 10,500' across the entire (climbers right) side of the glacier and we were also blocked out traversing left where we topped out. We had been told by a party the day before that the route was impassable, but wanted to see for ourselves. Looked like a 20-30' drop into the crevasse and then a very difficult climb out (AI4?); too committing for our group to tackle. We had a very difficult retreat even without going into this crevasse. Glad that you made it, you are a much more seasoned climber than me. One of the guys I was with had climbed Kautz glacier on Rainier two days prior and thought just getting to where we stopped was more difficult. I was surprised at the difficulty of what is rated a "moderate" route. It is described as 45 degrees with a few "ice steps" in the guide books, I did not expect to have to climb into and out a crevasse and the one ice step we did climb had very steep snow above it, a bit more than a "step" IMO. We descended way to climbers right (to avoid downclimbing the ice cliff we came up), onto the next glacier and barely found a way down off the edge of a cleaver into a moat. I have never been more concerned about making off a mountain than on this trip. What is "mountaineers" camp? We camped at "high camp" and I did not see anyone or a guided group on the 5th or when I was walking out the morning of the 6th and nobody was in camp with us beside a couple of skiers.

I'm looking to take that week off. I would be very interested in North Ridge of Baker.

Nice video

Looking to hook up with partner(s) to bag some peaks over the 4th of July week. Intermediate experience, crevasse rescue and Wildnerness first aid through Mazamas and have climbed a number of cascade peaks, including Washington (OR), three fingered jack, Thielsen, Colchuck, Golden Horn, Hood and Broken Top. Looking at selecting peaks from Jefferson, Daniel, Sahale, Bruckner, Glacier Peak, Ruth, or other peaks of similiar difficulty. Plans are flexible based on weather, but I would like to really get after it and get at least 3 of these or some other Bulger list peaks.

I am committed to climbing Denali in the next couple of years, hopefully 2018. This is based on work commitments and because I would like to go without a guide service and need to time to integrate with a team. Looking for partners to form a team and get out on some trips over the next two years to get comfortable and shakedown gear. Will provide climbing resume and experience upon request. I am looking at putting together at least 1 or 2 north cascades trips this summer and at least one trip in OR or CA.