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Atom

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  1. Trip: Mt. Jefferson - Southwest Ridge

    Trip Date: 05/22/2022

    Trip Report:

     

    This past weekend we went out to climb the southwest ridge of Jefferson. We hiked in Saturday afternoon and camped above the avalanche path above Pamelia lake. 

     

    We could not have asked for better weather and the road was open to the trailhead. We were hoping to make it to the summit but from the lake you could see that the rock portion of the route was covered in snow. We made it up to the saddle before the traverse, climbed out to take a peek at the traverse and turned around. 

    There were some folks from Seattle on route that I got some photos of. If any of you see this, PM me and I'll send you some photos. 

    DSC_4937.jpg.7210b13eaf1067c9bc8199c6d5997ff4.jpgDSC_4931.jpg.cde3be3299b53a720e1343e309c3fa35.jpg628c099ee4be4_DSC_4927(1).jpg.9071a0c0ea51539adfe507f2de3bd7a6.jpgDSC_4889.jpg.7bcb228d4e668f58647e2b71876b5934.jpgDSC_4866.jpg.d586b07f020e880fdf4acab819757607.jpgDSC_4897.jpg.24139214f80cce79dabc726d0d26e245.jpgDSC_4965.jpg.0b2ef757e7c6b26cf024dc2e6b529e83.jpgDSC_4953.jpg.c7e7e783de712e8c592018c127c79b20.jpgDSC_4936.jpg.4ed4ab0e25555b1ef8a96bc204079700.jpgDSC_4910.jpg.d987644e16435add540f4c8812c76953.jpg

    Gear Notes:

    2 quarks, crampons and splitboard

    Approach Notes:
    Pamelia TH, to PCT to avalanche path

    • Like 4
    • Snaffled 1
  2. My $0.02 having had similar questions in the past is to make sure you are on the same page as your partner and that you are both willing to have open and honest communication about your risk tolerance and how things are looking throughout the day. 

    I have been in the mountains with folks who are so attached to achieving the objective that they fail to observe important things around them or are unwilling to discuss them in fear of 'having to bail" - typically conditions that are getting sketchy. 

    I'm not all THAT experienced but in my view the mountains will always be there and I want to be able to keep coming back for a long time. If you keep coming back you will continue build more and more experience. It's a slow process (for me at least) but there are other places to go pedal to the metal where you aren't so far out there if something goes awry. 

    Sounds like you two are pretty well matched to get out and have a good time i.e. there isn't a massive disparity in abilities. 

    South side of hood is always a good way to go like others have said - Timberline lodge is pretty high which makes things easier and there are a variety of different routes to access from there. 

    Also, the Alpine Mentors content is high quality. 

    Not 100% certain I am on topic here, so forgive me if I'm not. 

    • Like 1
  3. @kmfoerster This is awesome! Thank you for sharing. 

    I think I need to adhere more closely to the KISS principle. I mocked up some cardboard and some card stock into the general shape I wanted, then traced the bottom panel portion from that. It yielded the cutout piece of paper. Definitely worked but a bit more of a process. 

    I also made a little cord organizer for a quicker little project. 

    Do you use a binding attachment?

    Thanks again, 

    Adam 

     

    IMG_1725.JPGIMG_1727.JPGIMG_1756.JPGIMG_1755.JPG

    • Like 2
  4. On 3/31/2020 at 7:47 AM, Artem Vasilyev said:

    I hope that this wasn't your actual takeaway from my post. Please don't build strawmen.

    I was pointing out the fact that we cannot say with certainty how safe any particular ascent was or is. Risk is difficult to quantify from a computer chair. We can only guess. I did acknowledge that you had climbed the route, so your opinion holds some weight. 

    I was certainly not making any comments on how a route should be climbed. It is clear that with all else held equal, solo climbing is inherently more risky. That being said, the gear on Yocum is bad and falls while alpine climbing commonly result in fatal outcomes. So the moral question is: Should we not also publicly criticize people for climbing the Yocum in the first place? 

    My answer is probably not.

    But each person has their own reaction to things like this, so I respect your perspective. Let's rope up someday and put whatever assumptions we have of each other to rest that way. 

     

    I wasn't going to jump in but I just wanted to say that I didn't interpret your (@Artem Vasilyev) original post as an arguement that soloing Yocum is safer than with a partner. I thought your comments were intriguing and thoughtful. So, thank you!

    Overall this whole thread has been a quite enjoyable read especially being cooped up due to the current state of the world. 

    For me this whole conversation around soloing really just me think about why I love climbing. And that is because no matter who you are, what your skill level is or your experience has been YOU get to choose how you experience the mountains. You can go drink beer on a crash pad with your friends and climb little rocks, you can go project some hard sport route you've been training your ass off for or you can go on some big mountain suffer-fest that makes you wonder why you do this. You get to choose how much risk you want to take (although, sometimes you don't) and nobody is sitting there telling you that you can't or that's too dangerous or that you are making a foolish decision. @landoclimb's comment on our sanitized world really resonates with me and in part that is why I enjoy the mountains - there aren't guard rails, there aren't caution signs or anybody holding your hand. It's wonderful how you can go take as much or as little risk as you want. And even that is relative and subjective. Some of my fondest memories have been coming back to "reality" after some climbing objective and seeing how strange and sanitized the world we live in is. 

    Also, congratulations on your ascent @landoclimband thank you for sharing. It sounded like a wonderful day out but I do hope you also share a rope sometimes. 

     

     

  5. La Sportiva Nepal ice climbing boots size 43

    These are not the evo's

    They are lightly used and pretty close to like new condition - 3 years old - I have climbed ~20 pitches of ice in them. 

    I bought them before I realized AT Ski boots were what I needed in the PNW so they haven't see much use. 

    $280 OBO - Looking at comparable boots on ebay this seems like a fair price.

    I will upload photos when I am back home tonight. 

  6. On 2/2/2020 at 10:18 AM, bedellympian said:

    Strawberries in Oregon have some ice. A little thin/sunbaked on 2/1 compared to previous visits. Some good stuff on the shadier aspects.

    IMG-8777.JPG

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    This looks interesting. Is this a fairly known area for ice?

    More specifically I'm interested if you are willing to share more details on getting there as I am not familiar with the area. 

  7. On 11/19/2018 at 12:53 PM, astrov said:

    I've been noticing recently Timberline is heavily advertising "no camping" in their lot. For those of us who have used the lot over the years as a convenient launching pad for ski mountaineering early morning missions, this is troubling if enforced.

    Does anyone have any more info? Why so serious, Timberline? 

    I have been worried about this as well but have camped in the lower lot a handful of times with no issue - Just my experience.

  8. On 11/26/2018 at 3:51 PM, Dylan Colon said:

     

    From what I remember from last summer the last time I was there, this includes the lower lot.

     

    I have been worried about this as well but have camped in the lower lot a handful of times with no issue - Just my experience.

  9. Trip: Mt. Hood - South Side - Hogs Back - Pearly Gates

     

    Date: 3/17/2016

     

    Trip Report:

    Parked in the Timberline lodge and went to sleep around 10 p.m. Wednesday night. It seemed like I was woken up by plows clearing the lot everything 45 min.

     

    3:15 a.m. I started skinning up towards the top of the Palmer lift and besides my desire to turn around and go back to sleep it was great. The sky was clear, bright with stars and even saw a handful of shooting stars. I arrived at the top of the Palmer lift around 5 a.m. and the summit at 8:50 a.m.

     

    The bergschrund was filled in with snow, couldn't really see it at all.

     

    Came back down to the hogsback via the old chute and skied the rest of the way to the parking lot and arrived there at 10:15 a.m.

     

    nx6ts0.jpg

     

    34sh65u.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    Gear Notes:

    Mountaineering axe, crampons and Skis

  10. Hey, I'm looking for anyone interested in getting into the mountains. I recently moved from Flagstaff, Arizona to Bend, OR. My climbing career started in college and quickly found myself climbing a lot in Sedona,AZ. I would like to gain experience in the Alpine/mountaineering/bigger mountain disciplines. Currently I am a 5.10 trad leader and 5.11 sport leader. I would consider myself very competent in terms of technical skills like building anchors placing gear etc. I do however lack weather and condition knowledge as I am from AZ where it rains and then 20 minutes later you are dry again. Let me know if you are interested in getting together...!

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