Nick Sweeney
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Posts posted by Nick Sweeney
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Trip: Lion's Head - East Buttress
Trip Date: 07/17/2021
Trip Report:Idaho is amazing! You can have legit mountain adventures in the Selkirks on impeccable stone. I recently returned to Lion's Head and thought I'd share my trip report here: SPOKALPINE
Gear Notes:
Singles .3-3, doubles .5-1
Approach Notes:
Bushwhack for your life!!!!-
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Trip: Mt Drum (Wrangell Mountains) - Southwest / Hurricane Ridge
Trip Date: 05/03/2021
Trip Report:Benny Lieber and I attempted Mt Drum from May 3-8, 2021. While we didn't summit, this was still an amazing trip. It was really memorable to be visiting the Wrangells on my first trip to Alaska - a range which is pretty far off the beaten path to say the least. TR with photos: SPOKALPINE
Gear Notes:
Screws, pickets
Approach Notes:
It's hard to get flights in here. Finding a friendly private pilot is your best bet.-
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For those interested, I posted up a trip report with lots of photos here: Spokalpine
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Wow. Nice send! Thanks for the great blog post too.
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Thanks for posting, I appreciated that you reflected on your decision making in the blog post. Rad photos too!
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Wow! Strong work. Great report and photos.
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Nice work! That's an incredible looking route.
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So impressed by this. Nice work!
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So, isn't it pretty well known that a cave can be a bad place to hide out in a lightning storm? I seem to remember stories of people getting killed that way on top of Half Dome. I guess the lightning hits the rock and can arc between the walls of the cave?
(...and great pictures by the way, nice report. Thanks!)
Chuck, thanks for the compliments. It's pretty hard to take a bad picture up there! In regard to the cave, we only had bad options to choose from. Here's a little more detail:
I had just made the first rappel off of the North summit and was scrambling a somewhat exposed ridge to find the next set of bolts. I approached the gendarme, and noted that the entire rock pinnacle was buzzing. Not just the bolts, but the gendarme itself! My partner began screaming has he was rappelling - he was receiving shocks while he descended. He later said it felt like bees stinging him. I ran back up the ridge and gave him a fireman's belay while telling him to keep rappelling as calmly as I could. By the time he got off rappel, our ice axes were buzzing, the wind gusts had reached 60mph, and things were looking pretty grim. Our choices were to continue descending, stay where we were on the exposed ridge, or scramble up to an alcove. I was not willing to make the next rappel off of the Gendarme AKA lightning rod, especially considering how loudly it was buzzing. Staying where we were wasn't especially attractive since it was starting to rain - if I was going to die, I didn't want to be cold while it happened. We scrambled into the alcove where we were sheltered from precipitation (it was hailing now), somewhat out of the wind, and clipped into a good anchor. Once we got all situated in our perch, the storm cleared and we started rapping again.
In retrospect, the ridge may have been safer, with both the gendarme and the summit being higher than I was. But in the moment, it felt like a pretty scary place to be!
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Nice TR and fun running into you up there Nick. Thanks for the miniguide dude!
No problem my man! You had an awesome trip, I am really jealous you guys knocked off the Snowpatch Route. Let me know if you want to do some climbing sometime.
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Trip: Pigeon Spire - West Ridge
Date: 7/29/2017
Trip Report:
The best 5.4 in the world was pretty damn good. Full TR: Spokalpine
Gear Notes:
Skip the climbing shoes, just use approach shoes!
Approach Notes:
Follow the cattle trail from Applebee.
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Awesome, thanks for posting!
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a group of 4? WFT assholes?
That's what I thought - very poor form, especially on such a popular route, and especially with other teams standing there, ready to climb. Thankfully the team of 4 split into two teams after the first pitch.
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Trip: Bugaboo Spire - Northeast Ridge
Date: 7/31/2017
Trip Report:
This was a big aventure climb that involved a close call with lightning and a miserable shiver bivy. You can read the full report at Spokalpine.com
Gear Notes:
An extra Gu for the morning
Approach Notes:
Short from Applebee
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Hey Daphne, I would recommend bringing ice axes and crampons right now. We got away without crampons, but if the snow was much harder we would have been forced to bail. We used approach shoes, which should be fine for you. Boots are unnecessary unless you want to keep your feet dry on the descent. Have an awesome time!
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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete
Date: 7/8/2017
Trip Report:
John and I climbed Dragontail's Serpentine Arete in 24 hours car to car on July 8th. We should have brought crampons, which would have made things safer and saved time. I expected the descent to take 4 hours from the summit to the car, based on my experiences on this peak in early Spring conditions. It actually took us 8 hours! A painful learning experience. You can see my full trip report and photos on my site: Spokalpine
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Awesome climb, I'd like to tick that one some day soon!
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Trip: Black Peak - Northeast Ridge
Date: 6/17/2017
Trip Report:
Cornices were a problem on the approach and on route. Be ready for a lot of loose rock! Full trip report on my blog: Spokalpine
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Any pictures? Is the South Buttress snow free yet? Nice send!
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Trip: Mt. Baker - North Ridge
Date: 6/4/2017
Trip Report:
This was an incredible route that we found in incredible conditions. Navigation of the Coleman Glacier was involved but did not give us much trouble. We found a route through the ice cliff that went at straightforward AI2, and the upper seracs were easily passed on the right, but this may not be possible for much longer. Full trip report and photos can be seen on my blog: Spokalpine.
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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs Cruise
Date: 4/29/2017
Trip Report:
This was a fun romp - my second time climbing this route to the summit. Conditions were quite easy and perfect for soloing. I would say the difficulty was AI2+. Full trip report with some pictures is available on my blog: Alpine Lines
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Trip: North Early Winters Spire - Chockstone Route (II+ 5.7)
Date: 9/10/2016
Trip Report:
This was a fun day out on a surprisingly devious route for 5.7. The spire saw three other ascents while we were there - two parties climbed the West Face while another was on NW Corner as we hiked out. There is apparently a new rap route down the West Face that is vastly superior to the standard descent of the Chockstone Route. Full trip report and photos on my blog: AlpineLines
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Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge (III 5.8 w/ var) and through-hike
Date: 7/16/2016
Trip Report:
This is an awesome route for intermediate alpine rock climbers looking for a long, adventurous day. Our car to car time was 19 hours, and a party of three worked well to split up gear. Check out my trip report HERE.
Sorry for the blast of TRs lately - I'll try to post them as I write them in the future!
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Trip: Paisano Pinnacle - West Ridge (III 5.9-)
Date: 7/23/2016
Trip Report:
I thought this was a great route! We originally wanted to do the Paisano-Burgundy linkup but ran out of time. However, the W Ridge of Paisano is a worthy rock climb in its own right. Full Trip report and gear notes HERE.
[TR] Chimney Rock - Free Friends 07/06/2021
in Idaho
Posted
Trip Date: 07/06/2021
Trip Report:
God damn! This route is incredibly high quality and STOUT at the supposed pitch ratings of 5.9+, 5.10c, and 5.8+. It was a real pleasure getting up to Chimney again... better than I remembered. Full report with photos: SPOKALPINE
Gear Notes:Doubles .2-4, triples .75-2. We used it all.
Approach Notes:
Sounds like the Western approach is the fastest option, and I've heard tales of being able to cross over to the East Face on the south of chimney rather than hiking around the North side. For this trip, we took the Eastern (Pack River) approach to enjoy the scenic hiking and try something new,