edaskren

Thanks Rad, good idea - it is beautiful there! Been checking the weather both sides of the range, we may just have to bite this one and head to the East side for rock, live to climb the alpine another day.

Thanks! yeh, been on that daily for the last couple weeks.

I need ideas please . . . buddy coming in from NJ this weekend -- he's never been in the Alpine but has lots of ice experience out of NH. We had planned Triple Couloirs back in Sept/Oct when he needed to decide leave time, we did this based on last years great conditions. Now we've been socked with tons of weather, avalanche conditions are dangerous above 6500' and we're desperate. Any thoughts or options for intermediate level mountaineering or accesable skilled alpine rock -- something that won't kill us require us calling for rescue burried under tons of snow? thanks!

anyone know anything about Banks Lake area, Devil's Punch Bowl beginners area and if it's in or not? thanks all!

Found this on The Onion -- at first I thought they'd been studying my buddy Paul and me this year in our bush-wacking experiences either getting onto or off of rock. Good laugh: http://www.theonion.com/article/study-finds-getting-smacked-right-in-the-mouth-wit-26837

Jefferson is a giant scree factory -- that water at 7777 ft was miraculous! Great TR Paul . . . except you forgot to mention the descent method we refined of "screessading." Good times buddy -- another summit to tick!

was just there this last Thursday 8/13 - got water from the snow patch under the summit on descent -- it was trickling, we made a pool and pumped a few liters.

Great TR! Thanks for the encouragement too. Probably could've should've . . . We did Little T instead, summited and had a great time. Thanks for the stoke!

Thanks for the info . . . your comments confirm our other research that it's likely too warm and snow too sparse to head up the Adams Glacier safely and confidently for our skill level -- crevasses, drooping or collapsing bridges and falling ice, rocks and seracs . . . thanks!

Looking to get beta and/or conditions on Adams Glacier Mt. Adams -- hoping to go up this week. Thanks for any help you got.

My ideas for solution are pretty limited but I'm down with throwing in my time and energy to accomplish something good to preserve the area. I have the pleasure of climbing there occasionally during the week days . . . nobody around. I accidentally stumbled out there on a weekend recently and couldn't believe the crowds -- thought there was a concert I hadn't heard about. Then, when I used the shitter it was a sight to behold -- the thought of that much crap hiding under rocks instead of in the hole . . . shuddering. I'm down for mindful attention to what appears to be a growing problem.

Hey man - thanks for the extra beta on the other climb we couldn't find. Thought we looked enough but must not have. Will check it out again.

Yeh - on the hunk a chunk I pulled down - when it went I got a shoe full of dirt. I was just glad neither if us got hurt. It'd be a fun project place. Lots of opportunity and really accessible from the road. We don't live too far from it either, had a half day and figured to give it a go.

Trip: Kahlotus, Washington - Date: 8/6/2012 Trip Report: TR – Kahlotus Devil’s Canyon If it hadn’t been for beta from Kevin Pogue we might never have found the 1 of 2 pitches just outside of Kahlotus, Washington that he bolted nearly 20 years ago and hasn’t (by his own admission) been back to for about 15 years. My awesome buddy and I got there early, parked along the road and made our way up. The site is approximately 1.5 to 2 miles north of Lower Monumental Dam on the West side of the road – alternately called State Route 263 or Devils Canyon Rd. We parked where the talus field comes right down to the road and climbed strait up the chunky basalt rubble, probably a 20 minute approach taking your time ‘cause one fall is gonna screw you up! At the top we landed on a “rails to trails” area that gave us a great place to dump our gear and set up. The 1 bolted route we found is located straight up from the scree (look for a couple of VW Bus size boulders in the scree as you’re going up). It’s right off the railroad bed and the first bolt is about 12 feet up but pretty accessible if you don’t mind getting dirty – lots of ledge-y, bushy grass to wipe your face through before you get to clip. I think Pogue rated this pitch a 5.9, there’s plenty of challenging moves, a little overhung in a couple spots – pretty fun. We each lead climbed it. We left the top rope up and began running up different routes either side of the bolts. There was a great slope-y, blank area that neither of us could send and we tried to failure – awesome pump action! Careful on these rocks though – on my way up the last time to grab the gear and rappel down I dislodge a piece of basalt about the size of a kitchen trash can. It did some good bouncing before it stopped. Good thing my partner belaying me was smart, back and to the side a ways – he would have been hurt bad. After a couple of beers we explored the rest of the wall. Couldn’t find the additional route that was supposed to be there although we did find the bolted cable that ran us up to the top of the wall through a cut in the basalt. We took rope with us to rappel back down (which required me going back up twice to rethread it through the rusted out, moss covered chains that kept grabbing it when I tried to pull it through at the bottom – ended up rappelling on a single bolt, yikes!) Lots of potential here for further routes to be developed – or maybe just some top ropes placed!? Really dirty overall, watch out for loose rock, doesn’t look like it’s been touched for years. The basalt is small-columnar and looks like it got squished from on top or thrust up into something from underneath.

Thanks, yeh, I know . . . the problem is our own. You see we've been in the habit of not recording our climbing trips . . . . .'cause then we'd have to be responsible adults that hold down regular jobs, ergo -- no pictures. However, since I've now outed myself, will work on pics for the next time. Good suggestion. thanks!