christophbenells

Was wondering if anyone out there has ever climbed pollallie falls out there. I seen it all froze one day... Any beta?

Trip: Mt. Service Expedition - Llewelyn Glacier Date: 7/20/2013 Trip Report: Juneau Icefields, BC/Alaskan Border Peaks 100, 101,102 (Mt. London, Mt. Service, Mt. Poletica) July 20th- August 15th The Expedition team The "mastermind" Professor Toby Dittrich The "veteran" Stacy Allison The "mystery" John Petrosky The "photographer" Ryan Irvin The "author" Chris Benelli The goal of this trip was to get Toby Dittrich to the top of Mt. Service, named after the famous Yukon author Robert Service. Toby has been on the Juneau Icefield Research Program since the early 70's, and has only missed a few years since. In 2004 he was diagnosed with Leukemia and given only months to live. Toby had long been a fan of Robert Service's poems and stories, and while going through chemotherapy he read Service's poem "every day a life" every morning. He made it through chemo and his cancer went into remission, so he felt he had to go to this peak-named after the man who got him through his lowest days. We made it successfully to the summit of Mt. service, as well as Mt. London and Mt. Poletica, and several other unnamed peaks. Oh Canada The 1970 Volvo station wagon (already leaking something only 6 hours into the drive...) Feeling apprehensive about our choice of transportation, deep into British Columbia. Canadian Dog giving the stink-eye "don't touch my biscuits eh" We made 2,400 miles and arrived safely in Atlin, B.C. Stacy, John and Toby flew in to base camp with all the supplies and food. Ryan and I took a boat 80 miles across Lake Atlin and hiked 13 miles up the Llewelyn Glacier to meet them a few days later. 4 miles of bushwackwacking, stream crossing and bear whistling brought us to the glacier. Travel on the lower part of the glacier. Fresh Glacier water We had to spend a couple of days in the tent on Llewelyn nunatack (marble mountain) waiting for the weather to clear so the helicopter could fly. The weather cleared and we saw the helicopter fly overhead, it was time to move! We made it up to the firn line and roped up, I fell in a crevasse 10 feet later. Finally see the base camp! Mt. Service sits right on the crest of the icefield, and is a beacon for the weather. The weather finally cleared, and we set off. It was mostly climbing on loose rock, with 4 pitches of fixed rope across a knife-edge ridge. Toby read Robert Service poems atop the summit. It was an extremely emotional moment as he had acheived his decade long goal. All were teary eyed.We had a summit box, filled with Robert Service memorabilia, including his drivers license and wallet, and placed it on the summit. John brought along a roman candle...it was almost a dud, but we made it work. We made it back to camp safe, and enjoyed great amounts of food. There was no going hungry on this trip, we even had water melon! Bicorn peak, above camp Goat Hair peak, our ski run on down days. Mt. Poletica, our second border peak climbed. Ryan had to sit this one out due to bad blisters, Toby stayed in camp after rupturing his Achilles tendon on Goat Hair peak. (unfortunate, but his insurance paid for some extra heli rides that were well appreciated!) Our route went up the ice and snow chute to the summit, then traversed over the top and down the back side. Mt. London, third border peak, named after Yukon author Jack London. On the ski down from Mt. London John lost a ski in a crevasse, but was able to fish it out with an ice ax on a rope. The rest of the trip was spent relaxing at the research project's camp 26. there was good views and good sport climbing. A helicopter ride out landed us back in Atlin B.C. drinking well deserved beers. Thanks for reading folks, here is a link to an article about us in the Yukon Times (must have been a slow week in the Yukon) and Plaidman's blog that he kept for us on Oregonlive's website. http://yukon-news.com/life/robert-service-remembered-in-alpine-expedition/ http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2013/07/mount_service_expedition_-_201.html

splitboards and skis are great. splitboards can be a little frustrating on runs where there is a lot of traversing or flat areas between downhills. mostly those runs are a bit of a waste of time anyways...use creativity and you'll find amazing top to bottom splitboard runs all over the cascades. if you're slow you're slow...no matter what you're on. physical fitness and being in tune with your gear is the key to being fast. not to toot my own horn, but whenever i splitboard with skiers i'm usually at the top a couple of minutes faster...i rarely find that skiers are waiting for me at transitions. use AT boots like tlt-5's for splitboard mountaineering. more than anything though, just have a good time. this aint no race, chad kellogs got that shit wrapped up, your never gonna make any money off of skiing or mountaineering so just do what feels right and tell everyone else to go kick rocks.

Spray

oh and they dont work with AT boots, only downhill din soles ive never actually skied in them so some of these observations are purely speculation. i have mounted several pairs on skis though.

the salo/atomic bindings dont allow a completely flat touring position, only angled slightly up or steep. they also have a rod/screw kind of thing for the pivot point, basically its a long bolt that goes into a nut on the other side of the binding. i just imagine it working its way out over a few days, hours or minutes? of touring. youve got to take that bolt out to mount the binding.

one downside on markers is that you have to remove the binding to go from ski to walk and vice versa. the heel peices are also really weak. ive seen a dozen+ pairs that would not pass torque tests in our shop (i work as a ski tech) fritschi freerides could be pretty rad too, go from skin to ski real easy. unless your a real hucker then the dukes would be a better choice as they are a stiffer binding. whatever you do dont get the salomon/atomic at bindings. them things suck. several design flaws. the tyrolia ones coming out look promising, look into those as well.

i think the dynafit tlt's are about as good as theyre gonna get. they are pretty good for volcano climbing. i wouldnt use them on waterfall ice, but it sounds like thats not what your going for. a trip of mine in tlt's last year http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1104601 this guy did mt hood north face in his http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1100148 i know these arent the hardest routes but im pretty sure i could climb a little bit harder ice in them than i have.

Well if youre renting crampons from me it is my business. I never said you need plastic boots, just a boot with a rigid sole.

True, but at least it could keep the crampons on their feet a little better. I like how you have your pants rolled up for heel hooking performance there Ben.

bunch of nonsense

young warriors, dods jam, beacon rock.

those are some awesome pictures, looks like great climbing. i like!

We're going up with a glaciologist associated with jirp, Maybe your buddy is Scott McGee? I believe he has tried this same peak we are going to survey. We have been in contact with him a bit.

anyone out there spend any time on the juneau icefield in july or august? wondering 3 things. 1) rock quality? 2) typical snow conditions that late in season? 3) any pictures of mt. service or mt. london?

I'm trying to drive through Canada to Alaska. I've been reading through all the rules and stuff but its hard to tell if I'm allowed or not. I had a misdemeanor theft 8 years ago, (stupid decision as a 19 year old) and several silly arrests for marijuana and alcohol as a minor. As far as I know all have been expunged from my record. Anyone with customs experience got any tips for me or can give me a clearer answer than I get off the CIC website?

i dont believe that is pulpit rock though, i think it is called cathedral spire. as far as i know pulpit rock is the large buttress on the west side of the coe glacier.

i would not rope up, and i would avoid a high traffic day. some of the climbers up there are scarier than the ice plastered to the cliffs above you! i once saw a team of three roped up but not belayed, with the two leading climbers short roped together, than climber #3 about 50m below them. if the top two slid down, #3 was going to get blasted off the mountain in a spectacular fashion! would a 100m fall give him enough time to cut ze rope?!!

First off, congrats! im sure this trip will always hold a special place in your heart. a favorite place of mine. i lived in the eastern sierra for many years before coming up to the NW.i once watched the sunrise from atop keeler needle (sharp sub peak just to the south of whitney's summit) after hiking the john muir trail. your giving me some reminiscent goosebumps just looking at the pictures! it is however very sad to see all the trash that hangs around the lake down there. i guess its just a biproduct of being the highest peak in the lower 48. the east face is not really a hard rock route, 10 pitches of low 5th class and 5.7 climbing. im sure if you go back you will not use those plastic double boots again! did you see any of the acrobatic weasels that live atop the summit? they leap off the edge to what you think is going to be pure weasel death, but miraculously they always land safely on the ledges below. one of my favorite parts though is the cheeseburger stand that is directly to your right when you exit the trail! some of the best beer and burgers ever! once again happy to see this TR! it made my day!

yes, it says its not open, but thats a lie it seems. it is open.

ha, thats funny i actually read that earlier just didnt connect the dots for some reason.

oh just found this: As of May 20, 2013 HIGHWAYS: Cayuse Pass/Hwy 123: OPEN Chinook Pass/Hwy 410: OPEN ROADS INSIDE THE PARK: Carbon River Road: OPEN TO THE ENTRANCE Only bicycle and pedestrian traffic is permitted beyond the entrance. Longmire to Paradise: OPEN DAILY For daily updates of opening/closing status, check MountRainierNPS. Mowich Lake Road: CLOSED -- Projected to Open JULY 4th Nisqually Entrance to Longmire: OPEN DAILY Paradise Valley Road: CLOSED Stevens Canyon Road: OPEN View Press Release Sunrise Road: CLOSED -- Projected to Open JUNE 28th Westside Road: OPEN to Dry Creek White River Road to Campground: OPEN can anyone confirm? how about the trail going up to the camp? snow levels?

anyone got any info? the nps site says it was scheduled to open may 24th, but it is still closed? thanks in advance folks.

has anyone bailed off liberty ridge? how easy would it be to turn around if weather comes in? simple downclimbing? rappells off of v threads or bollards?