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fourteenfour

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Everything posted by fourteenfour

  1. Sounds like a superb trip! Were you able to make it out there?
  2. Black Diamond Viper Technical Ice Axes $300 for pair OBO 1 Hammer + 1 Adze. bought for $480 new. I've used them maybe 15 times. 8/10 call two5three.nine0five. 9nine5 eight Michael
  3. Thanks Dave! We need to plan another trip when you have time off!
  4. Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs Date: 2/21/2015 Trip Report: Well I think everyone and their mom read calamityinsanity's TR on Tuesday, and I certainly owe it to him for posting the conditions. (iPhone photos will have to suffice for now, I'll try and get the real photos up soon). Made the plans as soon as I saw the TR posted. Secured my friends Paul and Jacob as partners. I landed Thursday afternoon packed and ready to go. We opted to depart Friday and enjoy some evening light at the lake. 1pm start from the closed road. 5pm-ish arrival at the lake. After enjoying the view and scoping the route we decided to set up camp on the lake...it made for an interesting night of sleep and occasionally second guessing our decision as the ice expanded and made loud creeks, moans, and gurgles, but it was super thick. A party of 2 arrived around 12:30am. They took a short nap and were first on the route around 7am. We had a late start, thinking there wouldn't be too many people climbing (we were wrong), leaving our tent at 8am, with an additional party of 2 and 3 ahead of us (7 ahead of us including the early risers). When we reached the base of the route around 9am the party of 2 and 3 were backing up at the first step on the left. We chose the ramp on the right and started cruising. By the end of the Hidden Couloir we had passed the the 5 climbers near us which made the climbing much smoother (would have started earlier had we known). The runnels were in great condition. Total we spent just under 7 hours on the route. With a team of 2 you could shave off 1-2 hours easy, maybe more. Back to the lake-top tent as dusk arrived. Packed up camp and reached the car by 9:30. Feet were quite sore with blisters to spare. Take microspikes for the approach. Lots of great rock pro (mainly for directionals and anchors). We pitched out a total of 4 pitches: the entry ramp, and 3 on the runnels, but you could easily do less. We carried #.1-#3 cams with a couple of doubles on the small guys but never used the #3 and only placed the #2 once (a second #1 would have been more useful in its place). 7 single length runners and a few doubles. 2 pickets. Necessary as an anchor once, otherwise just directionals while simul-climbing 6 screws (2 stubbies and 4 13's). With current conditions I would take 3 stubbies and 3 13's if going back this week. Stoppers were unused and I should have left at home. 2 kb, 1 lost arrow. All 3 went unused, but we were able to clip 2 existing pins on route. The route is in prime condition for snow and ice. Very consistent coverage, no mixed conditions (yet). As we left I counted at least 5 parties camped and waiting to get on the route for Sunday morning. I imagine it will be gone early this season as it felt much more like late March/April in the alpine. - Michael
  5. Nicely done. Thanks for posting!
  6. YOSEMITE BIG WALL // APRIL 27th - Early May Looking for a big wall climbing partner. Considering Lurking Fear and/or Triple Direct. message, email, or call. michael@michael-rowley.com 253.905.9958
  7. I would be down to meet up in the Creek and pitch in on a rack….I'm not quite in the 11 range….
  8. last minute trip to Bozeman for Monday and Tuesday. Looking for a local climber to swap belays with. I'll be departing from SLC Sunday night and returning Tuesday night. call/text if interested. Michael 253.905.9958
  9. PTARMIGAN RIDGE // JULY 10-12 My climbing partner had a last minute work conflict. If you have the dates open this week email or call: michael(at)michael-rowley.com 253.905.9958
  10. nicely done. bivy spot looks money.
  11. Looking for a partner for the Ruth Gorge. A warm up trip for the Cassin. So preferably someone who is interested in climbing the Cassin in May/June. Late March or early April (my schedule is pretty flexible, but I have a client commitment in Seattle on March 31st - So before or after that). Mt. Dickey or Mt. Barrill (Japanese Couloir) Mooses Tooth - Ham & Eggs Peak 11,300 With ample skiing on the off days. You know what it takes and the experience you should have. Drop me a line on here or you can reach me by email for quicker response: michael(at)michael-rowley.com Cheers,
  12. I'll give you a call next week but I should be available those dates if you're still iso a partner.
  13. Ben, I think I was the one who talked with you. You were climbing Devils Spire or something like that? (I'm not too familiar with routes on Hood). Great write up Dave. Michael
  14. I thought I'd give this one more shot. Looking for a partner (or a team already going) RUTH GORGE (preferable dates: April 12th-ish- May 2 Mooses Tooth - Ham & Eggs Peak 11,300 Mt Dickey also open to other ideas... CASSIN RIDGE (depart June 1st) shoot me an email at: michael(at)michael-rowley(dot)com or call: 253.nine0five.ninenine58 Please include a short climbing resume so I know we're on the same page. Michael
  15. Dave, I'll be back in WA by the end of feb/beginning of march. Let's get on something with a ski decent.
  16. Looking for a solid ice climbing partner for Bozeman. I have a flexible schedule from FEB 22nd - MAR 1st and can meet up any time between those dates. Shoot me an email [michael(at)michael-rowley.com] Cheers,
  17. I could join you if you have time between Dec. 19th-27th
  18. yaready know I want to get to Islamabad!
  19. I could get out the 12th and 14th. Leave the 15th for SA.
  20. ACONCAGUA . GORRA BLANCA . PATAGONIA // mid-JAN 2013 departing Seattle on either Jan.10th or 15th,17th. Starting with Aconcagua (Polish Direct/traverse), followed by Gorra Blanca and other peaks in the Patagonia region. Looking for a climbing parter for some or all of these. Get at me. email is the best way to contact me but I'll try to check this as often as possible. michael(at)michael-rowley(dot)com Cheers,
  21. I have the climb slated for mid January if you decide to wait.
  22. Partner confirmed. Thanks everyone for your interest.
  23. I won't be hitting Hyalite until after the festival. I don't need to waste my time with a bunch of drunk climbers lol.
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