@lunger, ha! At some point I started referring to overheating as 'the meat is too hot!' I guess meat makes sense, to some minds at least
I don't have a report of it. We found out because we called the Forest Service office attempting to get info on the road closures. The guy in the phone mentioned it and advised we be careful. In hindsight, I had no verification, but given Steph Abegg's Soviet rte report was so recent, I can see how Bonanza was 'in vogue'. I remember breaking foot hold and halting meat rain, slicing my fingertip badly on the first day. Nonetheless, all mountains have choss somewhere, but it's cool to see/hear where y'all found somewhat firm rock. Perhaps one day there will be a proper hard route up some of the steepest parts of that peak. That would be mega given the area's beauty and remoteness!
A decade ago?! FMR. I don't know if I would do 'our' approach if it were today....and we waited-out rain for over 3days at the col and climbed without hammer or pins, like a couple psychos. I had been properly climbing for about 4years at that point; long enough to be dangerous but now I sometimes wonder 'what the heck was I thinking?'.
Hope to run into you out there!