Matt K

If you go for Shuiksan via Sulfide you'll find pretty good conditions. I did it last week. Snow starts down in the trees below Shannon Ridge. The Notch has a few cornices. Good camping at 6500, toilets are not melted out. Despite clear nights last weekend, snow did not harden and was soft on climb and VERY soft on descent (postholing above the knee). The Southeast Rib was a good climb - it's all melted out. A few of the gully rap stations were still covered and I couldn't find them all. I've got work this weekend, otherwise I'd do something with you. Hope you have a fun trip.

Just got back from a weekend trip up Daniels. Road is open all the way to the trailhead. Have to cross Scatter Creek about 3 miles from the trailhead. It was deep in my opinion. A lot of vehicles made it, but a few small cars turned around. I have a little 2WD S-10 and didn't want to risk it, but also didn't want to turn around. So I just walked in. Scatter Creek was up to my knee and fast. Lots of melt going on up there. Snow line starts at the flats just below Squaw Lake. Have fun.

I gave Adams a shot over the Friday/Saturday of Memorial Day weekend. Had about a 5 mile road slog, but even in the 30 hr difference between going up and coming down it was melting out fast. Probably get get at least 1/2 mile to a mile further now. I used the winter direct route up the South Butte and the Suksdorf Ridge to Lunch Counter then to Piker's Peak (false summit). The standard south side route along the edge of Crescent Glacier had a HUGE cornice along the ridge. Me and my partner didn't make the top. We only had a narrow window with our work schedules and the wind didn't die down until much later than forecasted on Saturday. Got really beat up by the wind camping at Lunch Counter and breaking trail up to Piker's Peak. Whiteout was in and out with gnarly winds, I got blown over twice and then we decided to call it. Came back to a broken tent at Lunch Counter. Other people may have made it later that day, but I guess for once the ole alpine start put us at a disadvantage with the wind and all. Down low snow got really soft really quick. On account of the winds and storm up higher it was either bare icy snow or deep windblown powder. Also - all the rock shelters at Lunch Counter were filled with hard ice and snow that would have taken major effort to excavate if you were planning on using them. That was a week ago. Things might have changed. Good luck. I'll be back later in the season to give it another go. I was hoping to avoid the crowds with the early season attempt but I guess I also avoided the summit...

I'm somewhat interested. Gotta keep an eye on the avy danger. Let's talk.

I left my gray Marmot Catalyst jacket at one of the last raps off of the Tooth during a climb on Saturday Oct 15. Perhaps the two parties behind me use this website and picked it up?

Hoping that the three parties after me check this site... I lost a gray Marmot Catalyst jacket near the end of the descent of the Tooth today. I'd be really happy if someone found it! Thanks