matsfredrickson
-
Posts
51 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by matsfredrickson
-
-
Did you fly directly to Cody? I'm trying to figure out what's the best way to get there from Seattle.
-
-
La Sportiva Nepal (previous version) size 42.5. Good condition, lots of life in the soles - $150
La Sportiva Trango Alp (older version) size 42. Good condition, lots of life in the soles - $80
BCA Tracker. Works as expected. Used in for my AIRIE 1 last year, range was approximately 45 m - $100
Feathered Friends Geoduck Down Pillow. Used only a few times, like new - $20
I live in Bellingham and make it down to Seattle occasionally. Can meet in person or ship at buyer's expense. PM or email. matsfredrickson at gmail dot com
-
Just before the snow traverse to the N Face of Chair Peak my pole was blown off the ridge and down the approach side. It's red and silver with a black handle, I can provide a picture of it's partner. I'll happily trade a 6 pack for it.
-
In case anyone's curious, here a picture of Pan Dome Falls from chair 2.
-
Does anyone have any information on the condition of Pan Dome Falls? Thanks!
-
Email sent on the 2 13cm screws
-
PM sent (about climbing)
-
I just got back from my first visit a few days ago. There is a big schrund part way up the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col. The schrund could grow big enough to make access much more difficult. I believe that approaching via this col is necessary for all of teh Howser Towers, Pigeon Spire, and the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire, to name a few. Others said the col is currently very melted out but since this was my first visit, I don't have a basis for comparison.
My understanding is that the window for good weather is pretty narrow in the Bugs. People have told me that it can start snowing in September.
-
Wear less clothing and keep yourself from sweating.
Thanks for the replies, all. I could try a few different antifog treatments but I think controlling sweat is the key. Unfortunately I can't wear less than my soft shell pants and a tshirt, but I think a headband is in order to stop sweat from getting to my face.
-
I use the Western Mountaineering Caribou (35* down) for mid Spring to mid Fall, which weighs 18 oz for the short size. I wear extra clothes to bed in the shoulder seasons and sometimes I'm a bit cold but I think that's a fair trade for such a light bag. If I had to do it again, I'd probably opt for the WM Highlite, which is also a 35* down bag and weighs 16 oz, though it's cut a bit slimmer than the Caribou. Pro Mountain Sports carries both (shop local!) and Jim Nelson has a wealth of knowledge about all things Cascades.
-
For those who are curious, all of the Apron climbs are open. I climbed Over the Rainbow yesterday and you could see where the rock came to rest against that little tree.
-
Email sent RE this weekend
-
Nice! This route is definitely on the list
-
Trip: Argonaut Peak and Dragontail - NE Couloir and West Route
Date: 6/22/2013
Trip Report:
Steve and I were inspired by a recent TR and decided to try and repeat their route. We ascended the NE Couloir of Argonaut, descended via the East Gulley, traversed to the Colchuck-Dragontail Col, and ascended Dragontail via the West Route in a 16 hour car-to-car effort.
We slept at the trailhead Friday night and set the alarm for 4:30. It was boots on trail at 5am and we reached the clearing shortly after passing the turnoff for Colchuck Lake and were treated to the first view of the route (route is left of center).
We overshot on the approach and had to back track a fair amount, wasting about an hour. Before too long we were at the base of the route where we took a brief rest, donned crampons, and unsheathed axes. Snow conditions in the couloir allowed for quick travel with a few short rock steps.
We simul climbed the 5.6 rock pitch and traversed the summit snow field to reach the summit at 12:30pm.
Summit snow field
Summit shot
We rappelled the rock pitch and a second rappel down the East side brought us to an exposed and slightly sketch ledge system. We traversed the ledges and down climbed the East Gully. Neither of us had been on Argonaut before and we're not sure this is the standard descent.
We traversed around Colchuck and up to the Colchuck-Dragontail col. Using steps kicked earlier that day (thankfully), we ascended the West route of Dragontail, lingering at the summit just long enough to snap a few pictures.
The descent from Dragontail to the car via Aasgard Pass was uneventful (holy knees, Batman) but seemed to take forever. Red Bull and dinner at Munchen Haus was necessary before the long drive back West.
Gear Notes:
Light is right. Aluminum crampons, steel axe, small alpine rack, 60m rope
Approach Notes:
Stuart Lake trail
-
I searched around the forums for a similar topic but couldn't find one. I have a pair of Julbo Montebianco glacier glasses and the lenses fog up very quickly when I wear them tight against my face. My only solution has been to wear them with the arms higher on my head to allow more ventilation but they don't stay on as well when I do this, nor are they very comfortable. I contacted Julbo and they suggested using Cat Crap, an antifog paste. This has helped a little they still fog up when I'm working hard.
Does anyone have a similar problem and, if so, have you come up with a solution that works? Thanks in advance.
-
I have a very lightly used 70 cm BD Raven. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
-
I took my splitboard up to Muir yesterday. There is plenty of snow at the parking lot. I had to boot pack it for a section but it wasn't for lack of snow.
-
I had the same issue last spring and weak glutes were the culprit. The PT was able to figure out what the problem was within a few minutes and fixed me up pretty quick.
-
i use old burton race plates on top of some voile slider plates. they rip pretty hard. the absolute connection to your board give you awesome edge hold on steep/icy/rough terrain.
you just have to drill new holes into the voile plate to fit the burton race plate pattern.
voile makes a similar binding called the mountain plate, but the sit very high off the board, they suck.
ryan there is using phantom bindings, which are the bees knees and are hand made by a guy named john keffler in colorado.
Thanks for the info. I use Spark Burners with my soft boots but I'm interested in a setup for mountaineering. I'll check out the Burton race plates and the Phantoms.
-
Nice! What kind of bindings do you use with your splitboard and TLT5s and how do you like them?
-
-
PM sent on the #0.75 C4.
-
Spontaneity Arete is a fun climb. If memory serves, the topo and route description are in the SuperTopo WA Pass guide book.
Cilogear 30:30, 40B, similar offerings?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
+1 for the Alpha FL 45