matsfredrickson
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Posts posted by matsfredrickson
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I just moved to BHam from Seattle and am looking to find someone local to climb with, rock and alpine. I work M-F but can get out and climb some evenings once the days are longer.
I can lead 5.9/10a sport, 5.8/9 trad. I have a rack, rope, and car. I'd also be interested in gym climbing at the Y (or anywhere else if there's another gym).
-Mats
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I use a FF Jackorack. It's super light (3.5oz I think) and has a hood, full zip, and 2 zippered pockets. It's the first wind jacket I've owned so I can't give a good comparison to the others you listed.
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PM sent on the Reverso4
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I also have a pair of Prana Zion pants but I'm not a huge fan. They are pretty baggy below the knee on me, which I don't like. I've been climbing in a pair of Adidas soccer pants, which are super tapered below the knee. They are very stretchy and breathe well but may not offer as much warmth/protection as you are looking for.
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Awesome, thanks for your replies. Do you thread the end of the bungee through the grommet and tie a double fisherman's knot? Or is there a better knot for this?
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I am hoping that someone can tell me what they use with their pants with grommets to tie the pants down. I tried using some shock cord that I got at REI for a trip up the Kautz. The cord got beat up to the extent that I'm not sure it would last on another trip. Thanks!
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PM sent on LS Nepal Evos
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PM sent
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For long moderate routes I use Mythos but the key is to make sure they are a little oversized and comfy because technical shoes will punish you on long routes.
+1 for the Mythos. Be aware that they do stretch a fair amount.
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I'm a big fan of the NW Alpine Fast/Light pant, though this is the only climbing pant I have ever owned. I find that it breathes extremely well and sheds water fairly well. One of my favorite things about this pant is that there are no bells and whistles; no pockets under your harness and no vents (vents aren't needed because of the outstanding breathability).
I own a pair of OR hardshell pants but I haven't yet used them so I don't have an opinion on them.
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Thanks for the conditions update, Ben. My brother and I are planning on having a go on the Kautz next week.
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That looks like a sweet route. My buddy and I did the SW Rib on SEWS the same day. We were first on the route and there were a dozen people waiting by the time we finished the first pitch. An early start is definitely a must, but then you have to face the cold!
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I hadn't heard from anyone as of this morning so I made other plans. Then, of course, I got some interest. That's how it goes, I guess.
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No longer looking for a partner
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My regular climbing partner got roped into a weekend of backpacking so I'm looking for someone to climb with this weekend (Sat, Sun, or both days). I'm thinking Exit 32/38, Index, or Leavenworth. I'm also interested in Darrington but have never climbed there. I have a rack and can lead easy and some moderate routes (up to 5.8 at Index, maybe 5.9 in LWorth, up to .10a in N Bend). I have a car and am willing to drive.
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Found at the top of the last pitch of Great Northern Slab on Saturday 8/18. If you can tell me what size the cam is and the color of the tape on the 'biners I'll happily return it.
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Trip: Mt Challenger - Challenger Glacier
Date: 8/9/2012
Trip Report:
Day 1 (8/9/12): Steve, John, and I set off from the Hannegan trail head just before 9 am. We stopped for a bite at Hannegan Pass and continued on to the Chilliwack River crossing. Two logs were conveniently spanning the river and we were able creatively cross them.
Crossing the Chilliwack River
After another quick break at the river we headed up a nice climber’s trail toward Easy Ridge. The going was very steep and a little slow but we weren’t in a hurry. We arrived at the top of Easy Ridge and hiked for another half hour before finding a great campsite with amazing views.
Sunset
Day 2 (8/10/12): We awoke to find our camp just above the clouds that gathered in the valley and we were treated to a great sunrise.
Sunrise
After some breakfast we packed up camp and started off toward Perfect Pass, our destination for the day. After scaling Easy Peak we started descending the ridge down snow, rocks, and vegetation. It wasn’t too long before we found our progress stopped by the Perfect Impasse. Steve had some good beta on getting past the impasse without needing to lose 1,600 vertical feet to go beneath it. We backtracked one hundred feet or so and scrambled up some rocks. We saw some white rocks perched on their side above and figured this was the way across. I dropped my pack and scrambled up to check it out. It looked good to me so I went back, grabbed my pack and the guys, and we were on our way again. Some 4th class scrambling took us across the impasse and we were at Perfect Pass at noon.
Perfect Impasse
Our original plan was to go for the summit of Challenger on the morning of the third day but we decided to go for it that afternoon since we didn’t really have anything else to do. We set up camp, ate, and took a good rest before setting out.
The first obstacle was getting down onto the glacier as there was a large cornice all the way around the rock rim. We were able to hop down a few feet to a flat spot and set up a rappel. This took us about half way down to the glacier and some 4th class scrambling took us the rest of the way down. We quickly set off across the glacier as we wanted to be back at camp before dark. Navigating the glacier was fairly straight forward, it was somewhat broken up with several massive crevasses but getting around them was easy. After a couple hours of glacier travel we scrambled up to the single rock pitch, which Steve lead. He belayed John and myself up and we took turns posing on the top for pictures.
Summit shot
View from the summit
A quick rappel down and some more scrambling took us back to our gear and we set off back toward Perfect Pass. We more or less took the same route back and had some great photo opportunities along the way.
Photo op
Back below Perfect Pass again, we scrambled up the same stretch of rock that we scrambled down and then we were able to get onto a mellow rock ramp which took us to our previous rappel anchor. We boosted Steve over the cornice and he helped pull us up just as night was falling. Some dinner and celebrating was in order before we hit the hay.
Eatin'
Day 3 (8/11/12): All we had to do this day was walk. We knew we need to get back to our first night’s camp at the very least so we figured we would just walk until we felt like stopping, likely at the Chilliwack or one of the campsites between the river and Hannegan TH. We got the river in the early afternoon and stopped for a good rest. We ran into a group of 3 guys headed for Challenger and shared our experience with them. I hope they were successful! At 3 pm we left the river and were back on the trail. I wanted to get back to the car that evening so I set out on a pretty brisk pace. We passed the first campground and decided to stop at the next one and decide how far to go. This one looked full so our only real option was to go all the way to the car. We took rest on top of Hannegan Pass and started the long descent. This seemed to take forever (doesn’t it always?) but we finally made it back to the car about 7 pm.
Gear Notes:
Ice axe, aluminum crampons, picket for crevasse rescue, 4 draws for the 4 pins on the rock pitch. I would recommend bringing a helmet as we dislodged many loose rocks while scrambling.
Approach Notes:
Hannegan pass -> Easy Ridge -> Perfect Pass -> Challenger Glacier. Same route back.
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I haven't used any of the axes mentioned but the Petzl Summit is mighty fine lookin'.
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I have too many packs and need to get rid of a few. It has been used for cragging one or two dozen times and is in excellent shape.
Retails for $150, I'm asking $80. Local pickup only (Seattle).
Pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/webUpload?uname=106910713841537433528
Link to product info: http://www.rei.com/product/798183/mammut-neon-gear-45-climbing-pack
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PM sent for the pickets
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PM sent
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You should talk to Nick Parko at Snowboard Connection in Seattle. He has a side business called Sick Splits where he takes your board and splits it using a high pressure and very precise water jet. He is in the process of splitting a board for me and doing some custom work on my bindings so my Nepals will fit in the bindings. Check out his website: www.sicksplits.com
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I am in need of a rock climbing partner in or near Seattle. I mostly climb at Little Si or at Exit 38, but would be open to trying other crags. I have the gear to lead sport climbs and the ability to lead up to 5.9. Weekends are pretty much the only days I can climb, but they are usually pretty open. Drop me a line if you're interested.
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I'm going to be in Wenatchee for work from 6/21 to 6/24 and would love to do some evening rock climbing in the area. I'm not quite sure which individual days I would be free, but hopefully I can work something out. I'm looking to climb something up to a 5.8
Bellingham Climbers
in Climber's Board
Posted
Can you expand on that? I just moved to Bellingham and want to join a climbing gym. Thanks!