Trip: British Columbia - Slesse North Face Couloir
Date: 5/19/2012
Trip Report:
My friend Greg and I climbed the north face couloir on Slesse this past saturday. A great route in great conditions with great weather, followed by a long and arduous descent. The bottom mixed pitch wasn't really in so we traversed left onto neve on the North Rib, where we climbed mixed ground and ice followed by a traverse back right into the couloir. Once in the couloir conditions were fantastic; solid neve with cruxes of thin ice over slabs or unconsolidated snow. The top pitch where you cross into the heart of darkness gully was quite interesting, climbed unconsolidated snow up one side of the rib and rock down the other side. The crossover descent was easy enough to find thanks to spraypainted directions on rocks on the ridge (not sure if i like that, but we did use them). Overall the route took 20 hours car to car.
-On the approach.
-The route is directly above Greg, you can see where we traversed left onto the north rib, and then back right across flutings.
-This view is what made me decide to go left.
-Looking down after the traverse from on the north rib.
-Looking down during the traverse back right into the couloir.
-Looking down the route from higher up.
-The top out, after the crux rib cross-over.
-Slesse looking pretty right before we were benighted.
Gear Notes:
Cams to 2", a few thin pitons, nuts, 4 screws, 2 pickets. Used it all.