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mhux

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Posts posted by mhux

  1. We were up there early saturday, from the top of snowdome we ascended directly to the berg under horseshoe rock, then headed climber's right until we could cross it...so that rightward bootpack is probably ours!

    By loose sketchy cliffs do you mean (what I believe is) the Elliot glacier headwall? Looked suicidal to head that way...

    The skiing from snowdome looked infinitely better than the southside (much better snow and no crowds), guess that's for another day...good on you for skiing that, summit or not!

  2. Trip: Mt. Hood - Sunshine Route

     

    Date: 7/14/2012

     

    Trip Report:

    Climbed the Sunshine route with two friends yesterday, it was fun and pretty easy with some steep slushy snow (up to 50deg) and a near-sketchy 'schrund crossing. Descended southside and got a ride back around to our car, worked out well since some weather came in as we were coming off the top!

    Since its mostly a one-up of the southside route, I won't bore you with the details, but you should know the berg might be a bitch (or impossible) to pass in the near future. If you do want the details, they're on the link in my signature.

    All in all a fun outing, thanks for the good times Conor and Brayton!

    I can't seem to upload pictures (or at least they don't show in the preview), so they're on flickr:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/72705010@N04/

     

     

     

    Gear Notes:

    Brought two tools for the steep snow, but it was too slushy to protect

     

    Approach Notes:

    Tilly Jane not Cloud Cap (unless the cooper spur trail also departs from Cloud cap, it was dark)

     

  3. Anyone know NF gullies conditions (especially the right one!)? I know its a little late in the season, just wondering if the steps are in/how terrible the berg is (and the preferred option to cross it). Thanks!

  4. Planning on backbone ridge this weekend, neither my partner nor I have a piece that big (the #5 for the offwidth- I'm not soloing it!)...don't really want to drop ~$100 for a cam I'll barely ever use!

    So, I was wondering if anyone has a #5 c4 they'd be willing to lend me for the weekend- I could pick it up friday night and drop it off late saturday (anywhere from Salem OR to Leavenworth). I can give you an ice tool or crampons or something for collateral in the meantime...

    Or if you have a used c4 #5 you're willing to sell- that's not as ideal but it might work.

    I realize its a little out there but I figured I would at least ask! Thanks in advance

     

  5. Sorry to breathe life into this old thread but can anyone tell me what conditions are like now/will be this weekend? NOAA says chance of rain, I was planning backbone ridge but don't want to drive 6 hours to get rained out

  6. You could ski down, beats a slushy posthole any day...though it might trade one specific knee problem for another :)

    EDIT: Doubt that helps, but I do know what you're talking about...its sketched me out a few times but probably nothing to worry about- just take each step deliberately!

  7.  

    I'd have to disagree with your opinion of slung hexes. You can't use the wired ones for runners, if you run short, or prusiks, if the shit hits the fan. And when the wires fray, you gotta either send them back to BD for repair, or drill the unit to accept a rope sling after all. Wiring the hexes may have been good for marketing, but it reduced the utility of the tool - bad for climbing.

     

    didn't even think of that...nice! plus the larger wired hexes droop anyway

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